Is my pool/ AutoPilot setting OK?

[poolbee]

I have a new pool with an AutoPilot Digital 220. Pool tech came a few weeks ago and added stabilizer and salt-550 lbs for 22,000 gallon(I think-I get different quotes from different people and different online calculators). The water tastes salty, much saltier than the display pool at the builders( I did taste it). It is at approx 3200ppm. My stablizer is at 40-45. The purifier is not on very often and when it is running it's at about 20% and I can keep a FC of 5 at about 85 degrees water temp.
Is this all OK or should I increase my stabilizer to the recommemded 60-80. A tech from a different pool builder told me that CYA isn't necessary in SWG pools because they can continuously manufacturer the necessary chlorine and that CYA is banned in California. Is that true?
I have read other posts saying they are successfully running their SWG's with very low CYA.
Also, it was suggested I lower my SWG level to 1(at 2 now) and raise the output. I thought it was better for the cell to run it at a lower setting. What does changing the levels do?

Thanks.

[Davenj]

PoolSean will probably give you some advice. Need to know what cell you have with your AutoPilot #48, 60. I have a #48 cell running at power level 2 and 40% for 85 degree water temp. I also have 22k gal vinyl, cya 30, sun all day, light to moderate use, 3200ppm salt. Maintains a cl level of 2.5ppm. Also how long are you running your pump.
Dave

[poolbee]

I have the 48 cell running at level 2 with 20% output, sun all day with direct sun about 8 hours of that. I run the pump 10 hours in 2 stages- 8 hours and 2 hours. I like to run it for 2 hours after we close up for the night. My FC in the ps234s test is always at 4-5. Tests at questionable pool stores(see my post in "Testing and Adjusting Pool Water Chemistry") have me at 3-3.5 which is fine too.

[PatL34]

I would recommend increasing the CYA to at least 60 ppm. This is because of the instantaneous high chlorine production at the cell, which would be used up faster before it got into the body of the pool. This is regardless of running hours of the cell.

With the higher CYA level you will have more options in the power level settings available to you.

I have been able to run at low CYA levels, but only in the offseason in Central Florinda, but has to be raised when spring and summer are there.

BTW the pool tech's information was incorrect, in that he is not fully conversant with SWCG operation. I find this the norm these days.

Hope this helps.

Pat

[Poolsean]

"... The water tastes salty, much saltier than the display pool at the builders( I did taste it). It is at approx 3200ppm.
***SALT TASTE IS DIFFERENT FOR EVERYONE. USUALLY AROUND 3500 PPM IS WHEN YOU CAN TASTE THE SALT IN THE WATER. I HAVE MINE AT 3800 PPM RIGHT NOW AND LOVE IT!***
My stablizer is at 40-45. The purifier is not on very often and when it is running it's at about 20% and I can keep a FC of 5 at about 85 degrees water temp.
***INCREASE YOUR STABILIZER TO AT LEAST 60 PPM, AS PAT SAID. IT WILL HELP. 5 PPM OF FC IS ON THE HIGH SIDE. I WOULD REDUCE THE % EVEN MORE. BETTER YET, I WOULD DROP THE CELL POWER FROM THE FACTORY SETTING OF 2 (6.5 AMPS) DOWN TO CELL POWER 1 (5.0 AMPS). ALSO INCREASE THE PURIFIER % UP TO ABOUT 50%, TEST YOUR CHLORINE AND MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS TO BRING YOUR CHLORINE DOWN TO ABOUT 2-3 PM. I KEEP MINE AT ABOUT THAT RANGE.***
Is this all OK or should I increase my stabilizer to the recommemded 60-80. A tech from a different pool builder told me that CYA isn't necessary in SWG pools because they can continuously manufacturer the necessary chlorine and that CYA is banned in California. Is that true?
***HOGWASH. CYA IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AND IS PERMITTED IN CALIFORNIA. OTHERWISE THEY WOULD OUTLAW THE USE OF DI-CHLOR AND TRI-CHLOR TABLETS, WHICH BOTH CONTAIN CYANURIC ACID. THE ONLY PLACE THAT I KNOW OF THAT DOES NOT ALLOW THE USE OF CYANURIC ACID IS FOR COMMERCIAL POOLS IN NEW YORK, AND EVEN THEN, THERE ARE A SPECIAL EXCEPTION CLAUSE TO ALLOW THE USE OF IT.***
I have read other posts saying they are successfully running their SWG's with very low CYA.
Also, it was suggested I lower my SWG level to 1(at 2 now) and raise the output. I thought it was better for the cell to run it at a lower setting. What does changing the levels do?
***LOW CYA MEANS THAT YOU HAVE TO GENERATE MORE CHLORINE IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN A RESIDUAL, WHICH IN THE LONG RUN MEANS YOUR CELL WILL FAIL FASTER. CAN IT BE DONE? SURE, BUT AGAIN, YOU HAVE TO RUN THE CELL MORE, WHICH WILL WEAR IT OUT QUICKER.
RECOMMENDATIONS: INCREASE CYA, DECREASE YOUR FC LEVEL, GET USE TO THE SALTY TASTE (IT SHOULDN'T TAKE LONG TO GET USE TO), AND ENJOY YOUR POOL. LASTLY, ADJUST THE CELL POWER LEVEL AND THE PURIFIER %.
IF YOU NEED INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CHANGE THE CELL POWER, PLEASE E-MAIL ME DIRECTLY. SASSAM@TEAMHORNER.COM

***and thanks for selecting Pool Pilot***

[poolbee]

Ok I am trying to understand this. It is better to run the AutoPilot power at 1 with a higher output level than level 2 with a lower output level? Is it the power level or the output level that affects the cell life the most? As I said, my purifier is off most of the time and at about 20% output when it is on and I am keeping a FC of 4-5. When I lower the power to level 1 with a higher output the cell will run even less because of the higher output?

Also, I am not turning the purifier on and off. It does that by itself. Is it programmed to do that or is it strictly based on temperature? My temps are pretty steady at 83-85. I just want to understand how this works better.

Thanks.

[PatL34]

That's what Sean is saying.

Pat

[poolbee]

I guess my question is really which affects the cell wear more-power level or output?

[PatL34]

The output is tied in to each power level, so the output is a %age of each level. THe higher the power level and output %age, the more cell wear.

Pat

[poolbee]

I see. Thanks. The more I understand, the fewer questions I'll have later on. I do know how to change the power level and will do so as soon as I get more CYA. I have an approx. 22,000 gallon pool. How much CYA do I need to add to increase it from 40 to 60?

As always, thanks!

[Sardian]

Using the Bleach Calculator program which offers a CYA calculation. For a 22000 gal pool it would take 3 pounds 8 ounces to raise the from 40 to 60.

It's a handy little program, it can be downloaded here at the forum.

Russell


I see. Thanks. The more I understand, the fewer questions I'll have later on. I do know how to change the power level and will do so as soon as I get more CYA. I have an approx. 22,000 gallon pool. How much CYA do I need to add to increase it from 40 to 60?

As always, thanks!

[cwstnsko]

I can't comment about your question on cell life, but one advantage of running at a lower power level and a higher percentage is that you have a finer resolution for adjusting output level. When you run high power and low %, each % change is a big change. Also, with the lower power level and higher %, you are adding chlorine more continuously, resulting in a slightly more stable chlorine level.

[poolbee]

Let me say that I really appreciate all the help on this forum.
Tomorrow I will be adding the additional CYA to the pool and then lowering the power level to 1(and increasing the output), and testing from there to get my FC around 3 instead of 5.

[aquarium]

BETTER YET, I WOULD DROP THE CELL POWER FROM THE FACTORY SETTING OF 2 (6.5 AMPS) DOWN TO CELL POWER 1 (5.0 AMPS).

Are these amps at 120 volts? They draw that high an electrical load?

TW

[PatL34]

The volts are DC and usually in the 24 - 26 range.

The 120 volts are applied to a transformer that then supplies the DC volts and amps to the control unit that supplies the DC volts and amps to the cell.

The average load applied to the transformer on the DIG-220 controller, is about 200 watts.

Hope this helps.

Pat