Pentair IntellipH (pH controller) - any one use it?

[CountryBumkin]

I have a 20K gallon in-ground pool in central FL. I currently use the Pentair intelliChlor (SWG pool). I find that my water pH is always high. Usually around 8.0 by the end of the week, so I dump in a half gallon of muriatic acid or "pH Down".

I an thinking of adding the Pentair IntellipH to monitor and maintain the pH level. The unit injects muriatic acid as needed to keep the water pH at costs around $550.

Has anyone used this device - or something similar?

[CountryBumkin]

I did find a few posts here and on some other forums. I read nothing negative about it. So I'm going to buy/try it.

So please don't respond now and tell me its junk.

[swimdaddy]

It's junk.... just kidding. I don't know a thing about it, maybe someone else can tell us GOOD things about it. But I was just curious, do you know why your pH keeps rising? How do you test you pH? If you don't add acid when it gets to 8, will it continue to rise? My pool pH will also rise to 8, but it likes to be there, the pool looks and feels good, so I don"t mess with it much, have had no problems. What is your alk level? If its high, your pH will tend to follow it up.

[CountryBumkin]

I have a SWG and I'm told that process causes the pH to rise.

The pH will continue to rise if I don't do anything (I don't know how high it will go, but it has hit 8.2. But I don't want to see how high it could get). I use an electronic pH tester/meter. It does a good job when I remember to check the water. I've checked the meter readings against the pH tester in my pool kit I bought from this site and I also dip in a glass of drinking water to double check it, where it then shows 7.0 +/-).

I'll need to check my alk level and report back. I haven't tested a few weeks now.

I noticed that the chrome rings around my pool lights are all corroded now. I hope that adding the intellipH will help me keep the pH levels where they are more neutral (7.2 - 7.4 range) less corrosive to protect my pool heater and spa heater too.

[JimK]

I use to have to add acid every week (I also use a SWCG). Since lowering my TA to 70-80 and maintaining borates at about 50 I haven't had to add a drop of acid (pH stays about 7.5); that was about 4 seasons ago. :)

[CountryBumkin]

That's interesting. My TA is at 50 now. I am raising to 80 with baking soda. I need to read through this forum to see what "maintaining borates" means. That is not something I currently check or am familiar with.
Thanks.

[JimK]

That's interesting. My TA is at 50 now. I am raising to 80 with baking soda. I need to read through this forum to see what "maintaining borates" means. That is not something I currently check or am familiar with.
Thanks.


Maybe this will help

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php/18597-Adding-Borax-to-Make-your-Pool-Resistant-to-Algae?highlight=Borates

In a nutshell, borates can help discourage algae, act as a pH buffer, and can make the water feel better. BTW, if you use straight boric acid (not borax), there's no need to add acid with it. This is what I do (can be ordered online).

[FormerBromineUser]

Yea. I added my borates with MA and borax. It was a pain to do. Jim's way is much easier!

I would get the pH and TA where you want it and the. Go for it. PH and TA are much harder to adjust after the addition of borates.

[CountryBumkin]

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to order the Borate test strips (linked to in the Borax thread), then I'll start the process.

The Borax thread states that once the 50+ ppm level is reached, I should never have to add Borax again (it says the levels don't diminish over time).

Have you found this to be the case (I lose water through evaporation and have an auto-filler on the pool). Even my CYA levels change over time (I suppose I should just use the test strips occasionally to monitor).

My pool is somewhere between 15,000 and 20,000 gallons, so I would need 15 to 20 "4.5lb boxes" of Borax. That's 67-1/2 to 90 pounds of borax. Am I getting this right?

[FormerBromineUser]

First, the borates will reduce like CYA, not like chlorine.

Second, I found that the instructions way-overstated the amount of borax/acid needed. I stopped adding after about half of the recommended dosage.

If you go the borax/MA route, buy half of what you think you will need. You can always buy more later.

[JimK]

Seriously, why go through all that trouble when adding boric acid is so easy?

[CountryBumkin]

True. I read the part at the bottom of the Borate thread about using Boric Acid. The link is no longer working but I'm sure I can find this. Is there another name this stuff goes by (like the "20 Mule Team") I should be looking for in my local Walmart?

[CountryBumkin]

I found Boric Acid on Amazon (the pricing is all over the place) for a best price of $22.90 for 10LBS. I see that Boric Acid is used as ant/roach killer. Is this stuff all the same? Do I need to look for certain purity or anything. Is the bug killing Boric Acid the same as the pool use Boric Acid?
Thanks

[JimK]

I found Boric Acid on Amazon (the pricing is all over the place) for a best price of $22.90 for 10LBS. I see that Boric Acid is used as ant/roach killer. Is this stuff all the same? Do I need to look for certain purity or anything. Is the bug killing Boric Acid the same as the pool use Boric Acid?
Thanks

This is what I use

http://www.chemistrystore.com/Chemicals_A-F-Boric.html

I buy the 55lb size.

Others on the forum have also recommended this

http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=boric&gclid=CM_rmZPImscCFYhcfgod98oBrw

In a 20k gal pool with no borates it will take about 48lbs of boric acid to reach 50ppm.

[CountryBumkin]

Thanks Jim. Those links will save my some money over Amazon.

[JimK]

:)