Cannot find plain bleach

[CAPTCHEMCL]

In our area (S.E PA), we can no longer find "plain" bleach. All that the stores now carry is the HE/splashless bleach (which does not smell of chlorine at all). Even the generic bleaches are now HE with no scent and the % of sodium hypochlorite not listed on the label. We did not realize this until we started to have water clarity issues. I tested all our levels (pH, ALK, CYA, etc.) and all were in the perfect range. For the first time since we made the conversion from Hydrogen Peroxide base sanitizer to the B-B-B method in 2006, we cannot get our water clear due to using HE bleach.

I had to switch to using chlorine tablets, which I hate and are too difficult to control the chlorine levels. Also using these tablets, I can't keep the pH at a good level. It's like the tablets reduce the pH on a daily basis.

So, I NEED to go back to bleach. I found a generic ULTRA Germicidal bleach on-line and am hoping this can be used. Does anyone have and thoughts on using this in place of plain bleach since we cannot buy plain bleach anywhere anymore? If anyone has a link to where I can buy plain bleach, please share!

[JimK]

You might try hardware or pool stores to see if they sell "liquid chlorine". As I understand it, it's just a stronger concentrated bleach.

[FormerBromineUser]

Good comment, Jim.

You didn't mention your pool surface type. If it's vinyl, and your CH is okay, you could use cal-hypo (bags labelled only calcium hypochlorite and other/inert) until you find some sod-hypo (liquid chlorine/bleach).

[CarlD]

The pH problem can easily be controlled by adding Borax on a regular basis, at least until you get bleach or LC. Tri-Chlor tabs are HIGHLY acidic and push pH down. OTOH, Borax in sufficient levels can be an algae inhibitor. The REAL problem with Tri-Chlor tabs and Di-Chlor powder is they continually increase your CYA (stabilizer) level, forcing you to use higher and higher FC levels.

But you can use Cal-Hypo powder for a while as FBU suggests, but you'll need to watch your CH level. As CH rises, you'll THEN need to watch your TA too. If TA hits 200 and CH goes to 400 or 500 you could see calcium clouding and scaling. At that time, lowering TA should clear it up...but then you cannot use Cal-Hypo anymore. Be sure that the Cal-Hypo is 60% or higher. The 48% garbage sold at places like WalMart is worthless.

Since it's late July and most people in the NE look to close after Labor Day, you should be able to finish out the season. If the Cal-hypo and tri-chlor/di-chlor are your only options, you may want to drain and refill you pool, no more than half way. It will lower both CH and CYA levels and give you "room" for next season.