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[wctrvler]

Hello,

Over the last few years, I've been spending a HUGE amount of money trying to maintain our pool. I've researched and saw this information a couple of years ago. I dabbled with this now and again, but I am now ditching our local pool store products.

I am in the process of chlorinating our green pool. I added 8 gallons of chlorine (12.5%) and it is turning a lighter shade. I have not yet purchased a Taylor test kit, so the chlorine level is off the chart on the kit I have. How do I determine my chlorine level. The PH is 7.6, CYA 60, alkalinity 100 or so.

Also, the pool store suggested I was having issues with maintaining chlorine levels because the plaster was old. Is this true? This sounds a little strange to me, so I thought I would ask.

Plaster, 26,000 gallons, sand filter, built 1975, Arizona (hot),

[Watermom]

Well, that's a first ---- old plaster makes it hard to maintain chlorine levels. Unbelievable the things that we hear our members tell us that they have been told by so called pool 'professionals.'

What kind of test kit do you currently have? (Does it use yellow drops to determine a chlorine reading?)
What have you been using for your source of chlorine?
Are those testing numbers from your own testing or from a pool store?

We can help you get this cleared up! Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[wctrvler]

Thank you Watermom, any and all help is appreciated.

I am using an HDX 5-way Test Kit and it uses clear drops. The readings that I've had today have been from 2 different pool stores and from the kit.

1st store this morning:
FAC 0
CYA 99
TA 120
PH 7.6

My reading:
FC 5+
TA 130
PH 8.2

2nd Store:
CYA 60
TA 110
PH 7.6

I'm currently using pool supply chlorine since I need so much to get the FC level high enough to shock. It's labeled at 12.5%

[Watermom]

We typically find that pool store testing is not usually too reliable. It is much better to test the water yourself. But, most kits cannot measure chlorine levels past 5ppm. I'm assuming your kit uses an OTO chlorine test. Does the sample turn yellow to show the chlorine level? It is so much better to use a kit that is not limited to that 5ppm upper limit. That is why we like the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). It can measure chlorine readings WAY higher than 5pm. When you have algae, you have to shock to higher chlorine levels in order to kill the algae and you need to have some reliable way to test those higher chlorine levels. Thus the reason why we think it is important to have the K2006 kit. You won't be able to find it locally but you can get it through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

I'm inclined to think that your pH is 7.6 since both pool stores got the same reading. Your test kit will give falsely high pH readings when the chlorine is over 5ppm. If your chlorine is over 5ppm, (or over 10ppm with a Taylor kit), you can dilute the sample by mixing equal parts of pool water and distilled water and then running the pH test with that mixture.

Needed shock levels are based on your CYA level. You got a reading of 60 and then one of 99 so who knows what your level actually is. Again, another reason to have a good kit.

For now, I'm going to advise that you shock up to about 15ppm. Using 12.5% liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) is fine although sometimes it may not really be the percentage that the label says. But, at any rate, assuming that it is 12.5%, each, in a 26K gallon pool, each quart will add about 1ppm of chlorine.

Please order a K2006 kit. Also, verify for me that your chlorine test is an OTO kit (turns yellow) and then I can advise you further.

Hope this helps.

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[wctrvler]

Yes, it is an OTO kit. The chlorine test does yield a yellow color.

I tested this morning and the TC was about 4.5, TA 120, and ph was still reading over the limits of the test. At this TC level would the reading still be off? The pool is still green (but lighter), so adding 3 gallons of chlorine. Backwashed too.

[Watermom]

Yes, at FC 4.5, your pH test should be accurate. You'll want to use some muriatic acid to lower it. Please read this first.

http://pool9.net/muriatic/

Until you get the good kit ordered, you can read off the scale OTO colors with this chart:> http://pool9.net/oto-chart/

[CarlD]

I assume when you said you are using "pool store chlorine at 12.5%" you meant you were using Liquid Chlorine. That's good. LC is the same as bleach only stronger and, like bleach, has NO side effects--it doesn't affect pH, doesn't add calcium and doesn't add CYA. It's our first choice for chlorination, generally.

[wctrvler]

Thank you. I am making progress. The water is now a pretty blue color, but still a little cloudy. Actually made it through rain and wind without it turning green. Lots of gunk from our dust storms.

Added muriaric acid to bring the ph down. Current readings

chlorine 5+
Ph 7.4
TA 120

Waiting on the taylor kit to get more accurate readings.

What can be done to clear the water?

[CarlD]

Filter, 24/7. Put a little DE (about 1/4-1/3 cup) in the skimmer after you backwash. Add some more in similar small amounts to get the pressure to go up 1-2 lbs. Repeat after backwashing.
Get some "Skimmer Socks" or similar and put one in the skimmer. They pull out an incredible amount of stuff.

If that still doesn't start to improve it, try adding about 1 cup of polyquat 60% "algaecide"--only polyquat. It will drive your FC down but just add chlorine to raise it back up. Polyquat is an algaecide that acts as a clarifier.

Be patient.