Blue Cloudy Water

[pooljunky]

Help!! Please tell me what I need to do to get rid of this blue cloudy water. I saw on here before I joined that some others had this problem and I followed all the directions that were given to them but it is not working for me. I have raised my chlorine and ph up to the readings that were mentioned. I have been dealing with this problem for about a month, and while the bleach and borax is less expensive than the actual chemicals my expense for bleach and borax is getting pretty high.

[Watermom]

Hi and welcome to the Pool Forum!

We'll need some additional info to be able to help.

1. What kind of pool is it? What is the volume?
2. What size pump and what kind and size of filter?
3. Exactly what all have you added to the pool, meaning ingredients and not just product names like 'shock.'
4. What does the water look like?
5. What is the source of your fill water --- a well or city water?
6. Do you have a drops-based test kit? If so, what kind? Post current numbers.

If you don't have a good drops-based test kit:
The test kit that we think is by far the best is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). Not available locally but you can get it through this link that takes you to Amazon: http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) and get that. If they don't, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops) instead. Use it to test and then post your numbers. Also while you are at WallyWorld, get several jugs of their generic 8.25% bleach, a couple of boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle) and a gallon of distilled water.

Repost with requested info and then someone here can try and help you.

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

[pooljunky]

Hello Watermom, I have an in ground, 26k gallon vinyl liner pool, sand filter, city water. I have a drops based kit that I got from Walmart that test for chlorine, ph, and bromide. My water is blue and cloudy. I cannot see the bottom of the shallow or deep end. I can see the second step on the shallow end. The water color actually looks neat but it is not clear. The only thing I have been adding for the last month is regular bleach from Walmart and 20 mule borax from Walmart. I will try to post numbers this weekend if not I will post them Monday morning.

[CarlD]

If your water is blue and cloudy, not green and cloudy, then it's probably NOT algae. Does the cloud seem kinda white to you?

I really think we need to see your Calcium Hardness and Total Alkalinity levels.

What you can do is get the HTH 6-Way drop kit from WalMart Watermom mentioned and test those two things as well. BTW, the Bromine "Test" is the same as the Chlorine test. You just read it differently if you use Bromine instead of Chlorine to sanitize your pool. Otherwise ignore the bromine markings.

The test for CH and T/A in the HTH kit is basically the same as in the K-2006.

You see, I suspect you have very, very hard water and it's precipitated out.

[pooljunky]

Hello, thank you for replying. I will get one of the kits mentioned, run a test post the numbers. Yeah I don't think I have an algae problem. The water does not seem white at all. It is just light blue but cloudy.

[Watermom]

Have you had an algae bloom recently. Sometimes when you have had algae that has been killed already, it can make the water look a cloudy blue before it filters out.

[pooljunky]

Ok my numbers are chlorine 1.5 and ph 7.8. What do I need to do?

[Watermom]

Any idea what your CYA level is? Shock level is based on CYA readings. Did your Walmart not have a 6-way drops-based kit? It has a CYA test in it. Are you going to order a Taylor K2006 kit? Having more info from that kit will make it easier to get your pool cleared up.

[pooljunky]

I don't even know what cya is. My walmart only has the strip and the chlorine and ph drops kits. I guess I will take a sample in to the pool store then post the numbers from there.

[Watermom]

Unfortunately, we have found through the years that pool store testing is not usually very accurate. After all, they are in the business of making money by selling you stuff. It is better to test it yourself which is why I recommended that you get a good kit for yourself.

CYA is cyanuric acid, also called stabilizer or conditioner. It is kind of like sunscreen for your chlorine. Outdoor pools need some or else they quickly lose all of their chlorine to the sun. Needed chlorine levels are based on the CYA reading so it is important to know what it is. More info about the CYA/Chlorine connection can be found here:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

[pooljunky]

Hello Watermom, understand, but Walmart only have the drop kits. I will check at the pool supply store for a better kit. Yeah I know what you mean by getting tests at the pool store because in the past everytime I took a sample in I ended up spending at least $150.00 in supplies which is why I came to this site. I am so frustrated at this point. I have never had a problem like this. Someone on this site said maybe I need to add calcium hardness and you are suggesting stabilizer. I may need the stabilizer because it has been sunny here and my chlorine level drops really fast. I am going to get the reading today from the pool store and not purchase any supplies from them and post the numbers and wait for guidance from this site.

[Watermom]

Hate to sound like a broken record but the pool store won't have a kit that has the components you need. The Taylor K2006 is the one that can measure every single thing you need but you won't find it locally which is why we recommend ordering it through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/ If you can order it, you won't be sorry. It will make your pool care SO much easier!

(I think many Walmarts are switching out their pool supplies for school supplies so it is getting harder to find the test kits there at this time of the summer.)

[pooljunky]

Ok just got back from pool store numbers are as follows: Chlorine low 0, calcium hardness low 70, cyan uric Acid ok 60, total alkalinity ok 120, ph ok 7.6. Pool store recommend 1 quart of algaecide, 6 pounds of shock, and 58 pounds of calcium hardness. Do you concur with their recommendations?

[Watermom]

No. I do not agree with those recommendations. Yet again, another pool store that tells a customer with a vinyl pool that they need calcium. You absolutely do NOT need calcium in a vinyl pool! This shows you why we aren't too trusting of pool store testing or chemistry advice. Remember, their sole reason for being in business is to make money. If they can get people to buy expensive pool products -- even if they are not needed --- then they increase their profit. Here on the forum, we try to help people learn to manage their pools as inexpensively as possible and to only add what they actually need. Yes, we do encourage the purchase of a good kit that is a little costly, but in the long run, it will save you lots of money.

Assuming that their numbers are right, and that may or may not be true ........

Needed chlorine levels are based on CYA readings. With a CYA of 60, your maintenance levels for chlorine will be 5-10ppm and your shock level would be 20ppm. The test kit that you have is only going to be able to measure chlorine readings to 5ppm. Thus, you are going to need that K2006 kit. It can measure chlorine levels way higher than 5ppm. More about the CYA/Chlorine relationship can be found here:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

I would not add the algaecide nor the shock nor the calcium. You don't want to use any forms of stabilized chlorine such as trichlor tabs or dichlor shock powder because both of those have CYA in them and your CYA is high enough already.

Instead, I would just use plain, unscented bleach for your source of chlorine. Many of us just use Walmart's generic 8.25% bleach. In a 26K gallon pool, each of the 121-oz jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 3ppm of chlorine. I have a feeling that the reason your water is cloudy is because you are on the verge of an algae bloom since you have not been keeping your chlorine high enough. My advice is to shock your pool by adding 7 of those jugs of Walmart generic bleach. You'll want to keep your chlorine at shock level until you can go from sundown one evening to within an hour of sunrise the next morning without losing more than 1ppm of chlorine. Then, we usually advise holding the chlorine high for one additional day and then letting it drift down but you'll want to make sure it always stays between 5-10 ALL the time or else you'll continue to have trouble.

Until you can order the K2006 kit, you can use the chart at this link to estimate off the scale OTO chlorine test readings:> http://pool9.net/oto-chart/ It is not super accurate and is not intended to negate the need for a good test kit but is simply a stop gap measure to use in the meantime.

Run your pump 24/7 while you are working on this and backwash your sand filter any time the pressure is 8-10psi over your clean filter pressure.

Hope this helps. If you have further questions, we'll be glad to try and help you.

[pooljunky]

Watermom, excellent thank you. I will follow your recommendations then post my results.

[Watermom]

You are welcome.

[pooljunky]

Hello, I put in the seven jugs of bleach from Walmart yesterday evening as you suggested and when I looked at the pool this morning there was no change. The water is still cloudy blue. What now? This is so frustrating I have never had a problem like this with my pool. Should I add the algaecide and calcium hardness as the pool store suggested? We have not been able to swim for months now due to this problem. Please help.

[Watermom]

Most algaecides cause lots of problems such as foamy water that you cannot get rid of very easily. And, adding calcium is going to do nothing to help the issue.

Without good numbers, it really limits our ability to be able to help well. Are you going to be able to order the kit I recommended (Taylor K2006)?

[pooljunky]

Ok just got home and pool looks a little better water still cloudy but I can see the bottom on shallow end. I did the drop test the ph is 7.6 and the chlorine is 5 plus. What do I do now, more chlorine?

[Watermom]

Yep. More chlorine. Use the chart at this link to get an estimate of how high your chlorine is:> http://pool9.net/oto-chart/
Then, add enough bleach to get the chlorine back up to 20ppm again. (Remember, in your pool, each of the 121-oz jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 3ppm of chlorine.)

Continue running the pump 24/7.

By the way, your pH test will be invalid when the chlorine is over 5ppm. You'll have to dilute the water sample by mixing one part pool water with an equal part of distilled water. Then, run the pH test with that mixture. Do this before you add the next dose of chlorine.

[pooljunky]

Hello I'll add more chlorine later this evening and report in the morning. Should the chlorine be added to the skimmers or directly into the pool water? Yesterday I added the 7 jugs in the skimmer.

[Watermom]

I always add mine slowly to the skimmer while the pump is running.

[pooljunky]

Ok, sorry about the delay added 7 more of the large walmart bleaches last Thursday went out of town and returned Monday, yesterday morning still cloudy. I can see the bottom of shallow end not deep end so I added 7 more large walmart bleach on yesterday, today still cloudy can see shallow end but not crystal clear. Am I doing the right thing? Maybe I need the algae and calcium like the pool store suggested. Someone on here several posts ago said I may need the calcium. I will go back and read that one. This is so frustrating. I've never had a problem like this. I can't believe my chlorine level is this low. I have spent over 65 dollars on bleach the last couple of weeks. I thought the bbb system suppose to be cheap. HELP!!!!!!

[BigDave]

Did you get the K-2006 yet?

[PoolDoc]

I've never had a problem like this. I can't believe my chlorine level is this low. I have spent over 65 dollars on bleach the last couple of weeks. I thought the bbb system suppose to be cheap.

The "BBB Method" is supposed to be cheap-er and easi-er, than otherwise. But that's not necessarily cheap in any absolute sense.

For starters, it depends on accurate water testing . . . which requires a $70 - $100 test kit that you still don't have.

Pool dealers have NO incentive to test accurately, since INACCURATE testing sells more chemicals! Computer-scanned test strips fit their needs perfectly, since they SEEM very accurate, but are actually pretty random.

Also, you need to understand that trying to mix-and-match dealer chemistry with BBB will just result in a mess. If you haven't become convinced that you can trust us, about basic things like calcium, you need to go back to your dealer. You will just make things hard on yourself trying to blend pool store or standard pool advice with ours.

Good luck!