New Intex above ground owner - Psuedomonas?

[May76]

Ok, we just filled up our Intex 22'x52" Ultra Frame Above Ground Pool and I need to know what to do chemical wise in order to use it for the first time. This is what we have purchased-
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Robelle-Pool-Start-Up-and-Maintenance-Kit/24403014
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Chemical-3-Chlorinating-Tab-25lbs/17126435
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Chem-Shock-PLUS-10pk/24230341

Should I start out using the Robelle setup/maintenance kit's directions(which start with Algaestroy, then followed by the other stuff) and then add the chlorine tabs to a floater, then wait a few hours and then use shock? The Intex website recommends diluting the tabs in water to avoid bleaching the liner, should I just pop them in there straight out of the bucket anyways?

How long should I wait after all this is said and done till it's safe to enter the pool?
Thanks for any help!

[Watermom]

Can you take that stuff back? It would be great to just use our Super Simple Start-up Recipe instead of the Robelle kit. I have no idea what is in that kit and you don't want to put unknown stuff in your pool. You can read about the recipe here:> http://pool9.net/ssr/

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

[May76]

Thanks! I've already opened the kit last night because it came with test strips and I ended up putting two of the Aqua Chem tablets in a floater while running the filter pump thingy.. I have yet to open the box of Aqua Chem Shock though. I went by the pool store today and they tested my water(wasnt sure if the test strips I used were accurate, they weren't). These are the results:
Free Available Chlorine 0.56
Total Chlorine 0.56
Combined Chlorine 0
Ph Level 7
Total Alkalinity 42
Calcium Hardness 61
Cyanuric Acid 3
Copper 0
Iron 0
Manganese 0
Nitrates 0
Total Dissolved Solids 0
Phosphates 0
Saturation Index -1.2
Endure 0

He said we could swim today, but to shock it tonight to bring up the chlorine levels, but not to use anything with Dichlor and instead to use some with Cal-Hyoe? I read the ingredients on my shock and it does contain Dichlor something or other and says you can get in the pool after 15 mins? I don't understand why it would not be compatible with the tablets I'm using since they are made by the same company. Will it bring my CYA up too much if I use it tonight? Will the chlorine levels be safe by tomorrow morning if I use it tonight? I'm scared to use those strips now since they aren't accurate and I think the pool place is closed tomorrow. Spent so much money on these chemicals and would hate for them to go to waste... Should I use them this summer and do the bbb method next year? I'm so confused over all this stuff :(

[Watermom]

First thing is you need to get your own kit. Pool stores are notorious for inaccurate testing. I can tell by looking at your numbers that they are totally bogus. Test strips are no better.

The test kit that we think is by far the best is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). Not available locally but you can get it through this link that takes you to Amazon: http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) and get that. If they don't, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops) instead. Use it to test and then post your numbers.

It makes no sense for him to tell you that you can't use dichlor. That is totally ridiculous. However, many pool chemical companies are adding unwanted ingredients into their products that can cause problems. I have no idea what is in the AquaChem products. What are the specific ingredients in the dichlor and trichlor?

For this evening while you are figuring out what to use, why don't you just add a little bleach to your pool. Maybe about 2/3 of one of the 121-oz jugs of Walmart's generic bleach. Pour it slowly into the skimmer while the pump is running or in front of a return jet. That will keep some chlorine in there and keep algae away. It won't take long for a new pool to turn green! It is fine to swim a half hour or so after you add bleach. Just give it a few minutes to mix in.

Until you get some CYA built up, your chlorine isn't gonna stick around long. So, you may have to add bleach a couple times per day.

[May76]

Thank you. I tried looking online for those two test kits at Walmart(the HTC and OTO) but it says they are not carried in my area). :(

I just priced the Taylor test kits and the ingredients and I don't think it's going to be doable right now after the money we spent on the other chemicals, pool, and the fact that my husband is currently replacing the deck on the back of our house. So I'm probably going to be stuck trying to swing it and get by with the current stuff and try the bbb method next summer. Unless you have any other suggestions? Should I just go ahead and use the shock I have tonight since I'm not going to be able to do the bbb method yet? Thanks for the help!

[Watermom]

Not knowing if there are other unwanted ingredients in those products, I can't really advise you very well. The dichlor you have may be ok but without knowing exact ingredients, can't say for sure.

Without being able to test accurately and without knowing what ingredients you are putting in your pool, unfortunately, I think our ability to help is pretty limited.

[CarlD]

I know it sounds pompous to say this, but NOT having the test kits will cost you FAR more money, plus time and trouble than having them. The HTH 6-Way Drop Test Kit from WalMart is $22.47. I'm not a WalMart fan but it is the only place to get this, the cheaper alternative to the K-2006, and if you don't have the K-2006, then you need this.

It's not up to me to tell you how to manage your money but if you can't afford the HTH kit, I don't see how you can afford to maintain a pool.

You can later add the Taylor K-1515A for about $19 (the FAS-DPD chlorine test that is the key to the K-2006) to give you virtually the same functionality as the K-2006. Plus refills for things like the CYA test are readily available.

[May76]

Thank you both for the replies.
To answer CarlD- I wasn't saying I couldn't afford the HTH kit, it's actually is not available in my area, so I did not have fast access to run out and purchase it. One of those kits linked was like $95 shipped and one of the ingredients was around $100 thru Amazon, so since we just spent a bunch on the maintenance/startup kit, tablets, and shock, it seemed a little overwhelming to think about going out and spending at least $200 more right away and I was hoping to use what I already had.

As far as everything else goes, here is an update. My husband did find an OTO yellow/ted kit at our local walmart. I have used it every few days. I have shocked my pool twice (around 6 days apart) using the AQua
chem Dichlor shock I linked above. I have also used 3 of the tablets in our floating dispenser, used the Algastroy 50 once cause we had a heavy rain, and used the Ph rise once. It got my Ph level up to 7.8, but it has since fallen after the last shock. My chlorine levels seems to be staying on the low side(anything from clear to around 1) except after I shock, then it looks like around 3-5, but will fall back down after a day or so. I have only used my test strips to check the stabilizer(CYA) which according to them still seems like it's low. I need to get my chlorine levels to stay up, but I'm afraid if I continue using the Dichlor shock and Tablets that it will raise my CYA too much.

One other thing that is of concern is I noticed Sunday that I have broken out in a itchy bumpy rash on the inside of my upper arm and the area on my side where it meets when my arm is down. At first I thought maybe it was an allergic reaction to a bug bite or something, but I've never had a reaction to a bug bite before now. I am the only one that has been in the pool that has broke out so far, but I am concerned it could be hot tub rash(pseudomonas aeruginosa) from my chlorine levels being on the low side. Is it too late for me to straighten my pool out? If I just get my chlorine levels up to around 3 and they stay there will my pool be safe or do I have to drain it? I saw that one of the test kits was like $59 after going back thru the thread, I can order it on Friday, but till I can get more chemicals can I get by on bleach as long as my Ph is around 7-7.4 and my CYa probably isn't too high yet? Should we stay out of the pool or am I being paranoid since the rash isn't all over my body and it's only me that has broke out?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

[Watermom]

We are not doctors and cannot diagnose rashes. However, I would suspect that if it were a problem with something going on in the pool, which is unlikely, it would be much more widespread. Probably best to see your doctor if it continues.

Test strips are horrible at reading CYA levels. Go ahead and order the kit on Friday so you will have the ability to test properly and get good readings. Since your pool has only been filled for a few weeks, I doubt that your CYA is too high yet so using dichlor or bleach would be ok.

You are using products that we don't support and that can be risky. Most algaecides should not be used. I know nothing about the one you mention but am skeptical about it. The only algaecide we recommend is Polyquat 60% but even that is not routinely needed. If your pH goes too low, instead of using pH rise, you can just use 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle at Walmart).

[May76]

Thank you. I am hoping whatever it is will be gone in the next few days, but if it is not I am definitely going to have my doctor check it out.

As far as the CYA I think I read that for 1lb of Dichlor it adds around 9ppm of CYA and every 3" tablet adds around 3 or 6? Is that correct? So until I get the test kit in my hands is it safe to say that I'm probably somewhere in between 27-33. I've shocked twice and only added 3 tablets total. Is that a range that should start holding my chlorine levels? I don't mind adding bleach, BUT if I still need to build up some more CYA then should I shock it with the Dichlor shock I have on hand(since it also adds CYA) another time or two and then start adding the bleach in so I'm not wasting as much bleach? And when I do add bleach how much and how often would you recommend? Am I going to be pouring a bottle in every night or would it be like a cup or so once my chlorine levels are stable?

I will try to order some Polyquat soon and get some Borax at the store.

Thank you so much for your help!

[PoolDoc]

The OTO kit you need is available at the Tullahoma store: www.walmart.com/ip/17126394

I think you're wasting your time, coming onto the forum, since you really aren't taking our advice.

I've often noted over the years that pools aren't that hard, but they aren't forgiving, either. That's doubly true of Intex pools. Their filters are just barely big enough to manage if you do everything right. Once something has gone wrong, clearing the water again tends to take weeks, not days.

You don't probably don't need the polyquat. You don't need an algaecide. (Chlorine is the best algaecide.) If you have the Robelle pH Rise (washing soda, available in the Walmart detergent section for 1/2 to 1/3 the price), you don't need the borax. It's just a better way to raise the pH, but washing soda will work.

You DO need a reliable way to test, which you don't have. The SSR handles CYA levels for about 2 months by 'dead reckoning', but you're probably too late for that. So you need some form of the Taylor CYA test.

I understand the whole, "I already blew my budget" thing. But the problem is, a single episode of algae can cost as much as a month of normal pool care. The algae could care less what your budget is -- it just wants to grow, and will do so if your chlorine gets low. It sounds like your chlorine has been low. Pseudomonas is possible, if not entirely likely, in a pool that's operated for 3 weeks with intermittently low chlorine. If you DO have Pseudomonas, to get rid of it, you need SUSTAINED high levels of chlorine. It's capable of growing when the chlorine is low, and protecting itself with slime when it's high. (Mustard algae does the same.)

FWIW, if you're trying to diagnose yourself, Psuedomonas characteristically is more likely to appear in areas (a) covered by a swimsuit (trapping the bacteria against the skin) and/or (b) areas exposed to pressurized flow for a period of time. But that's not an absolute thing.

Good luck!

[May76]

Thank you, I actually have that OTO Test kit, along with the strips. I still plan on ordering the Taylor 2006 kit on Friday though.

I am trying to take your advice..since I will be ordering the test kit and am willing to try to use the BBB method if I have to, but I was asking if it would be a good idea to use the Dichlor another time or two to help not only get my Chlorine levels up, but also get my CYA up some more too so it can help my Chlorine levels stay up in the future. I'm doing everything I can at the moment.

The pool was actually filled a little under two weeks ago, but I don't know if the makes my situation any better.

So I hope I don't sound like a broken record, but should I use the Dichlor another time or two or just switch to bleach even though my CYA is still low?

I went to the pool store and had another test done hoping to get a better idea about the CYA and these are the results:
Free Available Chlorine 0.19
Total Chlorine 0.7
Combined Chlorine 0.51
Ph 7.4
Total Alkalinity 0
Calcium Hardness 64
Cyanuric Acid 16
Copper 0
Iron 0.1
Saturation Index -1.1

They recommended I shock the pool tonight. Should I be concerned about the high Combined Chlorine? Also it says my Saturation Index is corrosive?


I wasn't sure what to do about tonight, but since I knew I probably needed to get some chlorine in there, but also wasn't sure if I should start using the bleach or how much..I went ahead and added a bag of the Dichlor. I'll test using my OTO kit in the morning.

Also, I was wondering if since the area of my rash is not located where my bathing suit is covered if it could be a reaction to chloramines caused by the higher combined chlorine? I know I have not seen a doctor, the rash seems to be getting better, still visible, not near as itchy, but improving...should try getting in the pool tomorrow once my chlorine levels are raised from the shock and see how things go? It may not be pool related, but I was suspicious since getting a new pool is really the only change I've made recently. I'm still planning on going to a doctor if it doesn't clear up soon or if it comes back in a different place, but I'm skeptical that they will properly diagnose it right away anyways. From what I've read a lot of times it gets diagnosed as eczema.

I'll post my test results with the OTO tomorrow

[PoolDoc]

High combined chlorine *can* be very irritating, depending on WHICH combined chlorines you have (there are many!). I'd wait to enter till the pool is better.

BUT the problem is you can't trust those test results: I can tell that some of the numbers you posted are bogus, simply because of what some of the other numbers are.

Add 1 full gallon of 8% store-brand bleach every EVENING, late. Test with OTO the following evening. Skip the dose if the test shows dark or orange tinted yellow (off scale), but continue doing this for at least a week.

. . . you really need a K2006, if you want to be able to tell when things are 'right'.

[May76]

Ok, I'll postpone entering the pool today. I wondered about the test results. I tested with my OTO yesterday morning(didn't make it to the pool store till around 3:30 in the afternoon) and although I'm not 100% certain I am reading the OTO tests correctly, the water definitely had some yellow. It looked to be around 1.5, BUT I guess it is possible all that burned off by the afternoon which would have given the pool store a low reading?

I tested around 10:30 this morning with the OTO kit and it was pretty dark yellow. It looked like it was around 5, maybe 3 at the LEAST. Ph looked to be somewhere between 7.2-7.4. I followed with the strips just to see what they would say(though I know they can't totally be relied upon) and it was showing FC of 5.

I will start adding a gallon of bleach tonight, I'm guessing I should leave the Dichlor completely alone for now? Also, is it a good idea to keep the tablets in the floater during the next 7 days? I keep them in during the day, but always take them out when shocking the pool or adding other chemicals just to be safe.... If bleach is all I need that's fine, but I wanted to check first.

Also is there a way to know you are reading the OTO test results correctly? I try to read them in my kitchen, lights on, backlit from a window with the shades open and outside with the sun to my back, but sometimes I'm not sure my eyes are picking up the right shade of yellow and red.

Anyways thank you all for all of your help, I REALLY appreciate it!!! :-)

[PoolDoc]

It's better to wait on the dichlor, till you can hold chlorine overnight.

There's not too much you can to do make the OTO test more precise: it's very reliable, and covers a broad range, but it's not very precise.

[May76]

Ok, will do! Should I leave the trichlor tablets alone in the meantime for the rest of the week too? And should I wait the whole week before getting back in?

Sorry for all the questions...thanks for the help!

[PoolDoc]

I can't remember what trichlor you have, and I don't have time to re-read the thread now. If you have trichlor floaters, that's fine.

[May76]

Just the regular Aqua Chme 3" ones. I put the bleach in tonight I'll throw the floater back in in the morning. Thanks again! :-)

[PoolDoc]

Check and make sure they don't contain copper.

[May76]

I'll have to check, or possibly call them and see. I've tried to find that stuff on the box before, but could not locate it. I did an OTO test tonight and it was dark yellow, definitely 5 if not higher, no orange tint that I could tell. The test strip I followed with showed the darkest purple(10). I will skip tonight since the yellow was dark and check again tomorrow night. Thanks!

[May76]

Ok, just finished checking with my OTO and it was dark yellow(no orange tint) again so I'm guessing it was at least 5, followed with a test strip and it looked to be in between 5 and 10. Should I add bleach tonight since I skipped last night? I'm thinking I should. It's been raining nonstop for pretty much almost 48 hours here so the sun has not had a good chance to burn anything off yet. My husband had to let a few inches drain out today from all the rain and then we had a freak torrential downpour AFTER he did that, so he may have to let a little out again tomorrow. I ordered the Taylor kit thru the forum's Amazon shop(along with a brush and an Unicel filter cartridge) so I'm hoping the kit will be here at least by Tuesday, but won't know till it gets here.

So...adding a gallon of bleach tonight sound like a good idea?

[PoolDoc]

Higher is better than lower, when eradicating Psuedomonas. But I'd skip a day, if you are concerned about liner bleaching. You can make it more carefully 'high' once the K2006 arrives.

[May76]

Thanks for the reply! I wasn't sure and since I skipped the previous night, I thought it may be a good idea to go ahead and add it, so I did. Hopefully I didn't do too much damage. I may have to skip tonight though depending on how things look with the OTO test. I'll be glad when the Taylor kit gets here!

[May76]

Oh and something else, I thought I remembered reading in another post about Psuedomonas that it's a good idea to put the floats in the pool to help kill off the bacteria that may be on them too. I have had them out all week, should I put them in there when adding the bleach at night? Or do you think they have died off yet out of the water for several days? And when should I attempt to get back in?

Thanks!

[PoolDoc]

I don't think Psuedomonas is likely to survive, except as bacterial spores, on dry hard plastic. And since P. aeruginosa is ubiquitous -- often part of normal skin flora -- the presence of spores on floats is probably a non-issue.

[May76]

Well that's good to know then, thank you. Last night the OTO was still dark yellow(no orange) and test strip in between 5 and 10. It was sunny yesterday so I imagine some of the chlorine got burnt off, but there was still probably a good amount amount that stayed. I skipped the bleach and will check again tonight. Hope the Taylor kit gets here soon.

[May76]

I checked with the OTO and it's still dark yellow at around 5 and the test strip was at 5(not as dark as it has been). Should I use bleach tonight since I skipped last night? I put a couple of trichlor pucks in the floater cause the one that was left was almost dissolved and I figured I lost a little CYA with the slight drain my husband had to do cause of he rain the other day. I think I may have some mustard algae too cause I was reading about it and it sounds like the stuff I was vacuuming off the pool floor everyday before I got the rash(looked like dirt, floated up off the floor like dirt too). I was vacuuming every day before we would swim and it would be back in the wrinkles and creases of the liner the next morning every time. I have yet to vacuum since then(it's been a week) since I didn't know if I should get in the pool yet. I never vacuum from outside of the pool cause I like to see what I'm doing and make sure I get it all up. I'm waiting for the brush I ordered to get here, the vacuum I use has some bristles, but I know I need a dedicated brush.
Should I put bleach in tonight or are my chlorine levels probably ok?

[PoolDoc]

In generally, higher chlorine levels are better the lower ones, anytime you are trying to eradicate any biofilm forming pool problem, which includes BOTH P. aeruginosa AND mustard algae.

[May76]

Well the Taylor kit AND the brush both came in tonight, so I'm going to brush tomorrow(getting in the pool to do so) and attempt to run a test. I will admit, this kit is intimidating. ��

I added HALF a 121 oz jug of bleach last night since I skipped adding it for two nights, but was worried about adding too much till the kit got here. I'm going to check with the OTO tonight, but I think it will be fine to wait till tomorrow night after I've had a chance to brush before adding more bleach. Unless of course it's not dark yellow, then I'll add. Hopefully now that the kit is here along with the brush I can knock out everything that may be in there. It may just be dirt/pollen settling in the creases, it WAS pretty dry the first week or so after we opened the pool and there is a tree nearby...it also doesn't help that when my husband mows the yard it kicks up a dust storm that blows straight thru the backyard. It does sound like mustard algae though, especially the way it keeps showing up each morning after I vacuum.

Anyway, thanks for the help, I'll report my findings with the test tomorrow.

[PoolDoc]

Well the Taylor kit AND the brush both came in tonight, so I'm going to brush tomorrow(getting in the pool to do so) and attempt to run a test. I will admit, this kit is intimidating.

Videos! Watch the videos: http://pool9.net/tk/

[May76]

Haha! Thanks, I will! I watched a few earlier, but I'm going to have to go back and watch again, and pause, and watch, and pause, etc. So different than my simple OTO kit from the looks of it, and all the bottles!!! Lol.. Seriously, whoah. ��

[Watermom]

It's not that hard. After a time or two, you'll be a pro! ;)

[May76]

I hope so! I'm getting the nerve up right now. What's the bandage looking thing that comes with it for? It has a really strong chemical smell to it. I'm guessing I should only fill the large tube with 10ml of water since I suspect my chlorine is high?

[Watermom]

I'm not sure what the "bandage looking thing" is that you are referring to.

If you use a 10mL sample, it will make your reagents last longer. You'll multiply the number of drops by 0.5.

[May76]

Thanks!
Ok, did the Taylor test. I've only measured the FC, CC, PH, and CYA so far.
Filled to 10ml
FC=13 (took 26 drops to clear, it was mostly clear at around 16 drops, but still had pink at the very bottom swirling about, took 26 before I could not see one bit of pink at all.

CC=1(it was actually clear after I added the 5 drops of R-0003, but after SEVERAL seconds it turned a VERY slight pink, I added 2 drops of R-0871 for it to clear. So since it WAS clear for several seconds after adding the R-0003 and swirling before turning a very slight pink, should I have added the R-0871? Does that mean the CC was really 0?

PH- 6.8-7.0? It wasn't quite as dark orange as the 7.0 so that's why I'm guessing it could have been 6.8. I tried the method for high chlorine levels where you add 1/2 cup of distilled water to 1/4 of pool water before testing. Did NOT do the Acid or Base demand test for PH, should I have?

CYA- less than 30. I filled it all the way to the very tippy top of the container before I saw the black dot disappear completely out of sight. So would that make it around 20?

So, where should I go from here? Should I work on getting my CYA a little higher? I'm guessing I should raise my PH a little. If my CC IS 1, do I need to do something about that? and I'm guessing my FC level is good, if not high, should I leave the bleach alone for a while or continue adding in case I do have mustard algae or the Psuedomonas stuff?

[Watermom]

If the sample turned pink at all, you had a little CC.

For the dilution method of testing pH when you have high chlorine levels, you have to use equal parts of pool water and distilled water. Try that test again.

Don't retest CYA for awhile or else you'll just be wasting reagents. I assume you are using dichlor? (I didn't want to take the time to reread a 34 post thread to look and see.)

[May76]

Thank you. I will test PH again. I edited to add that "I did not do the Acid or Base demand test for PH, should I have?"
And "Should I work on getting my CYA a little higher? I'm guessing I should raise my PH a little. If my CC IS 1, do I need to do something about that? and I'm guessing my FC level is good, if not too high, should I leave the bleach alone for a while or continue adding in case I do have mustard algae or the Psuedomonas stuff?"

Yep, I've been shocking with the Dichlor I already had on hand (AquaChem), though I have not added anymore Dichlor since starting with the bleach. And using 3" Trichlor tablets in a floater(same brand as the shock). I still use those.

THANKS SO MUCH AGAIN! :-)

[May76]

Retested PH using 1/4c distilled and 1/4c pool water and it is close to 7.0, but a smidge lighter so it could still be somewhere in between 6.8 and 7.0. Did not do acid or base demand. I guess it's safe with CC of 1 and FC of 13 to get in there with the brush tonight or no?

I was reading on another thread that if there is CC present the water will turn pink immediately after adding 5 drops of R-0003, but this is not the case. It only started turning a very faint hardly distinguishable pink after sitting there at least 15-20 seconds AFTER swirling a while after the very last drop of R-0003, maybe longer(I wasn't really counting). Could it be just something it does if you let it sit a while?

[Watermom]

Add some Borax and bring your pH up some.

I have a feeling that you have no more than 0.5ppm of CC. Read the test immediately.

[May76]

I can add Borax tomorrow night(have to pick some up, do not have it on hand). How soon should I retest after adding the Borax and when can we swim? I DO have the Robelle PH Rise on hand, I've used it once before, weeks ago, but if you think it may have some yucky stuff in it I'll just get the Borax tomorrow. The kids have been driving me up the wall asking lol...is it okay to swim tomorrow before adding the Borax or PH rise?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you so much again!

[May76]

Just checked the PH Rise and it says that the active ingredient is "sodium carbonate" it does not list anything else. I think Pool Doc said I wouldn't have to buy the Borax since I have the PH Rise, that it is same as washing soda just more expensive? I could have misunderstood him though. Last time I used the Ph Rise it went from a PH of 7.0(pool store reading) to around 7.8(7.8 was my test strip reading), but the pool store tested it a week later and it was 7.4. I added about 2 cups then(if memory serves me correctly) so I may use just 1 cup tonight if it's ok to use and see where that takes me. I would prefer not to use Muriatic Acid to lower again it if I don't have to.

EDITED TO ADD:
ok, went ahead and added one cup of the Ph Rise, will test in a couple of hours and see what the results are.

[PoolDoc]

You can add borax to raise the pH to normal levels, and swim immediately.

[May76]

Awesome, thanks! I went ahead and added the PH Rise(you mentioned it was the same as washing soda just more expensive?)I already had here, but will switch to using Borax when it runs out. Gonna check the Ph and see where it's at here soon and adjust as needed. Then tomorrow swim and hopefully no more rash. I'll keep an eye on the chlorine, but should I dose with Dichlor again to get the Cya up? I'm still using the tablets, but I guess they aren't adding much yet.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

[PoolDoc]

If you have dichlor, go ahead and use it. Just remember that for every ppm of chlorine added, dichlor adds almost a ppm of CYA.

[May76]

Sounds good, I'll add it tomorrow night when we're done swimming since the FC was at 13 when I tested today.

Thanks again!