Intex 16x48 Ultra Frame Pool

[bdearen]

Just got this pool setup. I am making my first post here on this forum for more info on maintenance. I also have a small amount of water under the pool. I didn't see the water level drop overnight but the water remains under the pool. It's a very small amount and the guy at the pool store said a little could be normal as the ground was a bit wet when I setup the pool. I laid down 2 heavy duty thick tarps. I didn't think the water could go through the tarps. The guy at the pool store gave me a bag of salt to spread around and said that could help fix any small leaks from the pool settling. What do you guys think? Also can someone point me to the maintenance link?

[Watermom]

The guy at the pool store gave me a bag of salt to spread around and said that could help fix any small leaks from the pool settling. What do you guys think?
That's one we haven't heard before and we've heard a lot of stupid things that people are told by their 'pool store supposed experts!'

I'll let someone else address your question about the water under the liner but can help you get the chemistry started.

1. What kind of pool is it? What is the volume?
2. What size pump and what kind and size of filter?
3. Exactly what all have you added to the pool, meaning ingredients and not just product names like 'shock.'
4. What does the water look like?
5. Do you have a drops-based test kit? If so, what kind? Post current numbers.

If you don't have a good drops-based test kit:
The test kit that we think is by far the best is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). Not available locally but you can get it through this link that takes you to Amazon: http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) and get that. If they don't, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops) instead. Use it to test and then post your numbers. Also while you are at WallyWorld, get several jugs of their generic 8.25% bleach and a couple of boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle).

We have a Super Simple Start-up Recipe that would perfect for you to use to get your chemistry going. You can read about it here:>
http://pool9.net/ssr/

Repost with requested info and then someone here can try and help you.

Welcome to the Pool Forum, by the way! :)

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

[bdearen]

Sorry I found all this info sticky after I posted my question. Intex 16 x 48, Klear Water Filter 1500 Gph I think. Just filled it up and the kids are playing. I will test tomorrow and post back. Lots and lots of info on this forum it's great.

[PoolDoc]

. . . membership upgraded.


The guy at the pool store gave me a bag of salt to spread around and said that could help fix any small leaks from the pool settling. What do you guys think?

What I think is, "At least you didn't pay for it!". ;)

[bdearen]

So few issues. I filled my pool before I found this forum so I just started using your dosing guides.

I am waiting on my Taylor test kit but have some strips I got from the pool store. They are 7 way test strips. They are hard to read but everything is in the OK range except FC which appears to be at 0. I understand straight bleach wears off very fast because if the sun. My pool is in direct sunlight all day and temps are almost 100 degrees here in Southern California. I have a floating feeder so should I continue adding doses of bleach and borox in addition to the floating feeder? I had a ton of kids swimming here this weekend the day after I filled it. I just added some pool shock that came with the pool today.

Your guide says to add dichloral every day. Do I do this in addition to my floating feeder that has chlorine 3" tabs in it?? And do I just dump the granules of dichloral directly into the pool or sprinkle them around?? The granules seem to stick to the bottom.

[PoolDoc]

Dichlor should dissolve almost instantly. Check your label -- some people are packaging granular trichlor as shock, and IT will not dissolve instantly.

If you have plain undiluted dichlor (56% available chlorine!), I'm surprised. But try dissolving it in a bucket of pool water for a few minutes before pouring it into the pool.

Do *NOT* let your chlorine be zero!

[Watermom]

How many trichlor tabs did you buy? Are they wrapped or unwrapped?

[bdearen]

OK so update. I added in a bottle of CYA (conditioner) and 1 bag of shock last night. I have 2 floating dispensers with trichlor tabs in both. I tested this morning and everything was in perfect range. My question to you wonderful people here is can I just keep the floaters filled with the trichlor tabs full time without adding anything else to my pool? Obviously test each week to make sure everything is in order. The tabs I am using say 93% trichlor + 5% other ingredients = 84% chlorine. I have 4 kids that are out for summer break and will use this pool almost daily. My second question is would it be a good idea to drop a cup of bleach and a cup of borax in the night before I know the pool will get heavy use like a weekend ect.. ?? I want to keep the costs down as much as possible with this pool as I didn't understand the costs/maintenance associated with this thing before I purchased it and filled it :) thanks again for helping all of us.

The tabs are not wrapped. I have a bucket of 3" tabs I have in one floater (2 in each time) and I have a small floater with 1 " tabs neither were wrapped. I think I need to make sure my CYA is up to the correct level so I am not losing chlorine in the sun light correct?

[PoolDoc]

You're going to have to get a K2006 test kit, and monitor your CYA levels. For every 10 ppm of chlorine added, trichlor adds about 6 ppm of stabilizer. http://pool9.net/tk/

+ Keep your chlorine level at at least 10% of your CYA (stabilizer) level.

+ Trichlor also adds acid; use borax to keep the pH above 7.

+ Using bleach as a 'shock' will decrease the rate at which your CYA ppm rises.

[bdearen]

You're going to have to get a K2006 test kit, and monitor your CYA levels. For every 10 ppm of chlorine added, trichlor adds about 6 ppm of stabilizer. http://pool9.net/tk/

+ Keep your chlorine level at at least 10% of your CYA (stabilizer) level.

+ Trichlor also adds acid; use borax to keep the pH above 7.

+ Using bleach as a 'shock' will decrease the rate at which your CYA ppm rises.

thank you for the information. I am having a small issue here. Everytime people use the pool the free chlorine drops to 1 or 0. Everything else is testing fine and I can fix this problem by using hypochloritie shock but that is expensive to use every few days. Is there something else I can do to keep the chlorine level up even when people use the pool? I have 2 feeders floating with trichlor tablets.

[PoolDoc]

When people use the pool . . . chlorine gets used up. That's perfectly normal.

[bdearen]

Thanks for your reply. Should I be using hypochlorite to shock the pool after each use? How can I maintain a proper chlorine level at all times? Is there a cheaper alternative to this? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I am trying to keep this level correct. Thanks for helping me I appreciate it very much.

[PoolDoc]

The proper level is a range, not a specific number. It's better to be high than low.

If you are following the SSR, you will gradually build up a stabilizer residual that will reduce loss to sunlight.

But, you can NOT reduce loss to people 'goo'. People 'goo' includes of sweat, skin cells, fecal residue, and skin oils. The only way to reduce those is to not swim. But people 'goo' also includes lotion, sunscreen, and urine. Avoiding lotion use just prior to pool use will help, as will being careful not to use excess sunscreen. (Of course, you don't want to fail to get adequate coverage.) Urine is the major element in people 'goo' that CAN be reduced or eliminated. Steps that work include:

+ requiring that everyone 'potty' BEFORE entering the pool.
+ declaring an hourly potty break.
+ having an outdoor chemical toilet, like this
Stansport Cabana Privacy Shelter Tent (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0006V2B4G/scouscho-20/) (cheap, but people found it hard to assemble!)
Cleanwaste Portable Privacy Tent (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000CCM8C/scouscho-20/) (easy to set up)

Reliance Products Portable Toilet (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000FIDZLI/scouscho-20/)
Camco 41541 Portable Toilet (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004SFKJIQ/scouscho-20/)
+ have a designated 'pee' tree.
+ etc.

Urine consumes a LOT of chlorine and most people pee in the pool, under some conditions. *ALL* serious competitive swimmers habitually pee in pools.

[bdearen]

What was the SSR again? Also I am still not sure if I should be using hypochlorite to shock the pool 2-3 per week to maintain a high FC range.

[Watermom]

The SSR is our Super Simple Start-up Recipe that I linked for you back in post #2 above. (http://pool9.net/ssr/) It is basically an easy way to start up a freshly filled pool. Since you are using trichlor tabs, I assume that is not what you have been following, correct?

Exactly what all you have put in the water thus far? How many tabs did you buy and how many do you think you have left?

Did you ever order the K2006 kit?

[Watermom]

+ have a designated 'pee' tree.

BEN!!! :eek::oops:S-):crazy::evil:;)

[bdearen]

The SSR is our Super Simple Start-up Recipe that I linked for you back in post #2 above. (http://pool9.net/ssr/) It is basically an easy way to start up a freshly filled pool. Since you are using trichlor tabs, I assume that is not what you have been following, correct?

Exactly what all you have put in the water thus far? How many tabs did you buy and how many do you think you have left?

Did you ever order the K2006 kit?


Ah yes I did follow this originally. However I found these Trichlor tabs very cheap and bout a few boxes. I have 1" tabs in a small floater and 3" tabs in a larger floater. I have refilled the floaters 2X in about 10 days. I put water conditioner/stabilizer in when it was filling and have used shock once. I did order the k2006 kit just waiting for it.

[Watermom]

The problem with the tabs is that if you use them for a long time and don't monitor your CYA levels and adjust your chlorine levels accordingly, you can have algae issues. Here is a chart that shows the connection between CYA and chlorine:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

When you get your kit, test your CYA level. You may already have a significant amount of CYA in there between the trichlor tabs, dichlor shock powder and the stabilizer you added.

[bdearen]

Well I don't have my Taylor kit but I have 7 way strips. According to them total chlorine is 1, fc is 0, Cya is 10, alkalinity is high 180, pH is 7.8.

[Watermom]

Unfortunately, we don't put a lot of trust in test strips. Hopefully, you'll get your K2006 kit soon.

[PoolDoc]

Get a cheapo OTO/phenol red drops kit at Walmart. That will give you reliable -- if not super accurate -- testing till the K2006 arrives.

[bdearen]

I looked everywhere and couldn't find anything besides strips.

[Watermom]

Not even an OTO/Phenol red kit (yellow and red drops)? I have seen them at Lowe's before and I bet maybe K-Mart might have them. A pool store would, too. Just don't let them talk you into buying a bunch of stuff if you go there! ;)

[bdearen]

Wow you were right about the strips. I paid $35 for 100 7 way strips. They read FC at 0-1. My new test kit shows it at 5-6. CYA is still reading 0-20 so my next step should be to pickup some conditioner/Stabilizer correct? Also if I plan to keep this pool for awhile do you think I should get a 1HP pump/filter from the pool store? They sell one for $250 Waterways brand complete pump, leave trap, and a filter that's about 3 feet tall??

[PoolDoc]

Waterway has a habit of producing impressive looking filters that under perform. I can tell you a 1hp pump is WAY too big.

Here are some options:
Intex 28651 16-Inch 3200-Gallon Sand Filter Pump (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00GSPHS7E/scouscho-20/)
Hayward S144T1540S Top-Mount 14" Sand Filter 4-way Valve & 40 GPM Pump (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000P56HXE/scouscho-20/)
I think the Hayward would be a better choice, but having not been hands on with one, I don't know what it would take to adapt it to an Intex pool.

Regardless of which pump and filter you get, you'll need all the items below or their equivalent. Keep in mind that Lowes / Home Depot / etc sell some look-alike junk, so check ratings and reviews carefully.
TRC 26020008-6 12/3 GFCI Protected In-line Tri-Cord Set 15-Amp (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN//B000HHQIK2/scouscho-20/)
US Wire 74100 12/3 100-Feet SJTW Yellow Heavy-Duty Lighted Extension Cord (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0020YKLQW/scouscho-20/)
Intermatic P1121 Heavy Duty Outdoor Timer 15 Amp (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003NVLWMI/scouscho-20/)

[bdearen]

Waterway has a habit of producing impressive looking filters that under perform. I can tell you a 1hp pump is WAY too big.

Here are some options:
Intex 28651 16-Inch 3200-Gallon Sand Filter Pump (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00GSPHS7E/scouscho-20/)
Hayward S144T1540S Top-Mount 14" Sand Filter 4-way Valve & 40 GPM Pump (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000P56HXE/scouscho-20/)
I think the Hayward would be a better choice, but having not been hands on with one, I don't know what it would take to adapt it to an Intex pool.


Awesome I think I will pickup the Intex sand filter pump. Thanks for the link. It has really great reviews + it should just plug right into my existing setup without having to worry about adapters. I am currently cleaning the filter 2-3 per week to maintain the pool so I am sure this will greatly help.