Mustard Algea & Copper Algecide ?

[zooba72]

I've been battling a very persistent mustard algae for two seasons. Despite Super-Chlorinating the pool and maintaining shock levels for very long periods of time, it still comes back after some time. I am now looking into using an algecide, and I'm considering a copper based product by In the Swim:

http://www.intheswim.com/Pool-Chemicals/Pool-Algaecides/Super-Algaecide-Americas-Best-Algaecide-Value/

I've read conflicting information about the effects of copper ... Will it damage the my pool equipment, pump, filter grides, etc... ? Thank you.

[Watermom]

Copper will stain your pool and turn blonde hair green. Most people think it is chlorine that is the guilty culprit in doing this but it is copper. That is why we hesitant to recommend any products that have copper in them.

I'm going to ask PoolDoc to take a look at your thread and see if he can give you his opinion.

[zooba72]

Thanks for the reply. I definitely don't want anyone's hair to turn green, but I'm not concerned about the staining the vinyl liner as this liner is in desperate need of replacement. I've probably put over 30 patches on it so far. My concern is that on other threads people said that copper could damage some of the pipe unions, light, and filter equipment, which I don't want.

Everything else I've done has been ineffective and I wouldn't be surprised if the algae has been surviving the shock treatments behind the light.

[PoolDoc]

I just wrote up the latest info I have on dealing with mustard algae, here:

http://pool9.net/algae-m

[PoolDoc]

Re-reading your post, you definitely want to try the phosphate remover approach.

Here are the steps to follow:

1. Order a K2006 kit (if you don't have one) and a K-1106 phosphate kit.

2. Order 2 quarts of Clorox Remover for each 10k gallons in your pool OR order 1 quart of Orenda PR-10000 per 50,000 gallons of pool water. (Read the linked page!)

3. Test BOTH your pool water AND your fill water with BOTH kits (K2006 & K1106)

4. Begin lowering your PO4. The Clorox product seems to work more slowly (a week) but does not cloud your pool, like the Orenda product does.

5. Meanwhile, maintain your pool chlorine level at 15% of your CYA level, and brush the algae regularly.

6. Examine ALL pool products you are using, to make sure none are phosphate based. Ask if necessary.

7. Understand that using phosphate removers is not a one-shot process, but a new maintenance task. You'll both want to REMOVE phosphates and AVOID ADDING more phosphates.

8. An additional benefit of very low PO4 levels is that it will be easier to avoid algae on vacations and over the winter.

[Watermom]

Here is the link to the test kits: http://pool9.net/tk/

[zooba72]

Thank you for the responses. I do own the Taylor K-2006 test kit and use it on a regular basis. I haven't tried the Phosphate approach. Thank you for putting that procedure together. Based upon the responses it would appear that nobody recommends using the copper based algecide. I'll report back once I figure how I'm going to proceed and provide some progress reports. Thanks again!

[PoolDoc]

Actually, some people are quite happy with copper. I don't recommend it, because I can't ID who will be.

BUT, if
a) you have a dark haired family, and
b) a patterned liner, and
c) are not to picky about variations in the pattern (stains), and
d) avoid shocking (spiking chlorine levels) and thus manage to avoid black copper oxide stains,

THEN, you may be quite happy with copper.

But, the view from here isn't sharp enough for us to pick out who those people will be, especially since they are a distinct minority.