using the bbb chart

[sobrien2]

I was having problems keeping the tc/fc in my pool I added 4 lbs grainular shock, checked the level after 5 hours it was barely noticeable. I read further in the post and added 360 liters of bleach and waited over night and fc/tc level is still over 5ppm. Can someone please tell me how to use the bbb cl chart for dosing. And should I leave tablets floting in the pool while using bleach from now on..

[Watermom]

We'll need more info to be able to help.

Is this a freshly filled pool? What all have you used in the pool so far? Is your granular shock cal-hypo or dichlor?

Your kit is actually missing a couple of critical tests --- a CYA test and a FAS-DPD chlorine test that can read chlorine readings higher than 5ppm. Both of those kits can be purchased separately as add-ons and used in conjunction with your current kit. You can get them through this link which takes you to Amazon. http://pool9.net/tk/ The K1515 is the FAS-DPD kit and the K1721 is the CYA kit. They will cost around $50 together.

Whether or not you should be using trichlor depends on your CYA level. How much trichlor (tabs) do you have on hand? Are they individually wrapped or not?

What does your water look like? Have you had any algae recently?

I know I have asked a lot of questions but knowing these things will help us to better advise you.

[sobrien2]

no just topped off after the winter. I have been running it 24 hrs a day for 2 weeks water is very clear, but after first shock dirt appeared so I vac'ed and shocked again, white dust appeared where the dirt was. I have about 40 tablets, unwrapped. Pool store yesterday said cya was 90. Shock was cal hypo. Yes had small areas of algae that i vac'ed up prior to shocking. Borax has kept the ph level at 7.4 till I added bleach

[Watermom]

Does your kit test alkalinity and calcium hardness? If so, what are the readings?

[sobrien2]

tc is 10, hardness 240,cya,60, alk-90, went and got a k-2005.

[Watermom]

The K2005 kit is missing one very important test that the K2006 has which is the one that allows you to test chlorine readings past 5ppm. But, like I told you in the post above, you can buy the add-on kit for that test which is the K1515. (Link above. Highly unlikely that you'll find it anywhere locally.)

Glad to hear that your CYA is 60 and not 90. Actually, 60 is a very good reading. Here is the dilemma and something that Ben and I have discussing recently. You have a container with 40 unwrapped trichlor tabs. Even though you don't need any more CYA (and those tabs have it in them), it is not a good idea to store unwrapped trichlor from one season to the next. And, you also cannot throw it away. (In fact, that may be illegal.)

So the problem becomes -- what to do with them? Do you have a friend with a pool who you can give them to? If not, it might be best to just go ahead and use them up and just run a high CYA / high chlorine pool. In case you didn't know, the higher your CYA is, the higher the chlorine levels have to be to keep algae at bay and to keep your pool sanitized. You can read more about the CYA and chlorine connection on our Best Guess Chlorine chart either in my signature below or at this link: http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

Now, there is nothing wrong with having a HiC2 pool. In fact one advantage is that it allows you to add chlorine less frequently than those who have low CYA pools. The disadvantage is that if you get algae, it takes higher chlorine levels to kill it.

For now, while you are trying to clear the pool, keep your chlorine at shock level (20ppm) by using bleach. Each evening, test and add enough bleach to get the chlorine back to 20. In a 10K gallon pool, each of the 121-oz. jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 8ppm of chlorine, and each quart will add 2ppm. You can use those as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add.

Hope this helps.

[sobrien2]

the 2005 does allow you to go above .5, you yous the different increments on the side of the tester then multiply by 2 or 5 depending on which scale you use. I know the dpd method is easier. I have been in the water business for over 25 years but when I retired I lost my access to the DPD packs. I have to say pool water is much harder to deal with than city water..pool is very clear so do i need to keep cl level above 10ppm? do i need to take the tablets out, I have no issue putting them to use elseware. How long do I need to keep at shock level? Thanks

[Watermom]

Do this. Test the water this evening. Then, add enough bleach to take the chlorine back up to 20ppm. Tomorrow morning within an hour or so of sunrise, test the chlorine again and post your readings. We are looking for overnight chlorine loss. If you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight, then you can let the chlorine drift down and keep it between 5-10 all the time. If you drop lower, you risk algae. But, if you do lose more than 1ppm overnight, then you continue to keep it at shock level until you do pass the overnight test.

If you don't use the tablets in your pool, what other uses are you talking about. I'm curious.

[sobrien2]

added 121 l of bleach. I will test again in the morning. Is there no need to float tablets with this method? if not I have a neighbor that has a blow up pool that will use the tabs.

[sobrien2]

I checked the cl level this morning it is hard to tell with this tester. still looks like its near 20ppm. What i did see again was what appears to be sand in patches on the bottom of the pool again. I was told before this is decaying algae?

[sobrien2]

I am adding a 121 oz of bleach each evening to keep the cl level at 20ppm till my tester comes in, can anyone tell me why areas of dirt keep showing up on the floor. Is this algae that is decaying in the water?

[PoolDoc]

Sorry, you didn't get a helpful reply.

I assume the problem is still going on? If so, FEEL the dirt particles.

=> If it's sand from your filter you'll be able to feel the particles. If it's sand, try using the "rinse" position on your filter valve (assuming it has that position; most do) for 15 seconds after you backwash. Then turn the handle to "FILTER". Sometimes, if the pump is pushing sand OUT of the filter during backwash, some of the sand will get into the pipes, and then into your pool once the FILTER position is again used. The RINSE position can avoid this.

HOWEVER, you'll need to watch out for sand loss: if it continues to occur, you'll end up with a filter that can't filter!

=> If it's NOT gritty (like sand) but will sweep away, there's a good chance it's mustard algae. Let us know, and we'll help you with that.


By the way, I've upgraded your forum privilege level.

[sobrien2]

I have continued to run the cl at 15 +ppm, waiting for the rest of my test kit to arrive. I had the same sand looking issue last year. I always rinse following a backwash and I have not backwashed following a vac and the sand still is showing up. Its not in great amounts, but in the creases and bumps of the liner. Any Ideas?

[PoolDoc]

Is it sand?

Get some and see. If it REALLY is sand, it's almost certainly from your filter.

[sobrien2]

I just checked it, it is not gritty and if you move your foot or hand over it , it goes away. Its a very light brown and only in small depressed areas or where the liner is wrinkled.

[Watermom]

Could it just be dirt? In most every pool, dirt likes to settle along those very areas that you mentioned --- in depressed areas or in wrinkles or seams in the liner.

[sobrien2]

I was hoping so, it gathers every 2-3 days and I am running filter 24 hrs. Is it normal to run it 24 hours?

[Watermom]

You don't need to run the pump that much. I typically only run mine about 8 hours per day and some people do less.

If it is dirt, you have to be very careful when you vaccum to move the vac head REALLY slowly. Otherwise, the dirt just gets into the suspension of the water and you don't see it. But, then, when the water quiets back down, it redeposits back on the floor and gets in those same nooks and crannies as before. It happens in my pool if I get in too big of a hurry while vacuuming.

Try to vacuum and go extra slow and see if you can get it out. Not to say you're not going to get more because you will. There is no way to have a perfectly pristine outdoor pool all the time. Believe me, I try! But, there is always going to be dust and dirt blowing in the air and there are always going to be leaves and bugs.

Let us know a day after you vacuum if it took care of it.

[Watermom]

Also, just to verify ----- you did try the 'overnight test,' right?

That is where you test your pool in the evening after the sun is off of it, and then again in the morning within an hour or so of sunrise. If you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight, then most likely it is not algae.

[sobrien2]

yes its hard to tell with out the add on to my tester im waiting on so i have run it at 20 ppm since we talked.

[PoolDoc]

You might want to do the DE test -- it's rather common for sand filters on AG pools to have problems from oversized pumps. Dirt 'leaking' through the filter is absolutely a possible result of a filter with problems, particularly one that's missing some, but not all, the sand in the filter.

DE -test => http://pool9.net/de-test