First K2006 Testing - What Now?

[tim5055]

Got my K2006 today and here are my first readings:

FC 6.4
CC 0.0
PH 7.8
ALK 110
CYA Off Scale

I did a little searching and discoverer the 1 cup pool water/1 cup tap water method for high CYA. Doing it that way the dot disappears just before the 100 mark, so I'm figuring it's a little over 200. I had a pool store run it 4/2/14 (they used a K2006 kit) and they came up with CYA 95; not sure how they arrived at that number but I suspect it had something to do with the employee "in training". Another store ran it 4/3/14 on a wiz bang computerized system and came up with CYA 151.

Looking at the best guess chart I'm figuring I want to raise the FC to the 10 -15 range. Correct?

From a previous similar post, here are the answers to the questions Ben posed:

Pool is algae free

Sand filter

IG concrete pool. We are the low lot in the neighborhood, so the ground does not always dry out.

No heater or salt system. No scale that I see

I have no used and algaecides or other such products.

Up to now i have been using 3" pucks to chlorinate. Picked up 3 gallons of bleach today to have on hand (before testing).

[PoolDoc]

Sounds reasonable.

You can either drain 2/3 (once the ground is dry enough) OR you can run a HiC2 pool -- high chlorine, high stabilizer, no pucks or dichlor used.

There are 2 problems with a HiC2 pool:
1. Testing pH requires an additional step (dilution with *distilled* water) OR use of a pH meter.
2. Killing algae is a trick, because if algae grows, it can take 30+ ppm to get rid of it.

#1 is not a real problem; #2 can be, if you get mustard algae and end up with 55 ppm of chlorine, it will take weeks for it to drop, and will be hard on swimwear that whole time.

I *think* there's an alternative approach for some pools -- phosphate level control. We've been anti-phosphate remover products, because dealers sell them indiscriminately, side by side with other products that RAISE phosphates. But low phosphate levels (> 200 ppB) do greatly inhibit algal growth. However, you have to manage phosphate entering your pool, via tap water (in Chattanooga, fill water has up to 3 ppm phosphates (3,000 ppB!) and via stain control agents. However, if you aren't having to use stain control agents, and if your pool doesn't leak (requiring frequent additions of tap water), low phosphate levels can be maintained.

We're going to be testing that approach, this season. I've used it on a 200K gallon commercial pool this winter, with outstanding results compared to previous winters.

[tim5055]

Sounds reasonable.

You can either drain 2/3 (once the ground is dry enough) OR you can run a HiC2 pool -- high chlorine, high stabilizer, no pucks or dichlor used.

There are 2 problems with a HiC2 pool:
1. Testing pH requires an additional step (dilution with *distilled* water) OR use of a pH meter.
2. Killing algae is a trick, because if algae grows, it can take 30+ ppm to get rid of it.

#1 is not a real problem; #2 can be, if you get mustard algae and end up with 55 ppm of chlorine, it will take weeks for it to drop, and will be hard on swimwear that whole time.

Well, I think for now I'm going to try the HiC2 pool. I'm going to cross my fingers that I don't have to deal with algae.

Are the instructions for testing pH by dilution with *distilled* water around?

Does this mean the 7.8 reading I have is not valid?

[Watermom]

If your FC is only 6.4ppm, then your pH reading would be accurate. With a Taylor K2006 kit, pH tests are accurate with FC readings up to 15. But, if you have higher chlorine levels than that, you would need to dilute the sample (to lower the chlorine level) before testing pH. The amount of dilution depends on how high your chlorine is --- you need to get it lower than 15. You dilute with distilled water and then test pH as normal. The reading you get when testing your diluted sample would be your pH level.

Be diligent about keeping your chlorine readings in the proper range per the Best Guess Chlorine Chart (in either PoolDoc's or my signature box) and you should not have any algae problems.

Hope this helps.

[tim5055]

If your FC is only 6.4ppm, then your pH reading would be accurate. With a Taylor K2006 kit, pH tests are accurate with FC readings up to 15. But, if you have higher chlorine levels than that, you would need to dilute the sample (to lower the chlorine level) before testing pH. The amount of dilution depends on how high your chlorine is --- you need to get it lower than 15. You dilute with distilled water and then test pH as normal. The reading you get when testing your diluted sample would be your pH level.

Be diligent about keeping your chlorine readings in the proper range per the Best Guess Chlorine Chart (in either PoolDoc's or my signature box) and you should not have any algae problems.

Hope this helps.Got it! It does help, thanks. As the best guess says 100 - 200 CYA 8 - 15 is good, I'm going to keep it close to 15, delete the tabs (only a couple of pieces left in the floater) and stick to bleach. Hopefully with backwashing and rain the CYA will slowly drop.

[tim5055]

I added chlorine (bleach) and brought the FC up to 11.0

A little fuzzy math using the bleach calculator, how much the FC raised & how much bleach I used points me in the direction that my pool is closer to 25,000 gallons rather than the 33,000 a pool store was telling me using measurements.