My new numbers after draining 65%

[jacksonlui]

I've just drained more than half my pool to get control of
my original CYA of >100.
Here are my readings after filling (filling was so much faster):

Size = 28850 gallons
Sun = all day, 90-100 summers, very dry
Pump: 6hrs per day (10am - 4pm)
Loc: southern california
SWG: old Aquarite with 2yr old cell

Cl = 1
Alk = 70
PH = 7.2
CYA = 50
Salt = 1800 *I need to raise to 3000*
TDS = 2500

Can someone please help me with some advice moving forward?

- shock at 15ppm with ultra bleach
- add 288lbs of salt to get it up to 3000ppm
- add Muriatic acid to maintain 7.5 (SWG)
- maintain Cl at 5ppm
- increase Cl to
- pump times and duration ok?

is that all?

thanks in advance for your help!
Jack

[duraleigh]

Jack, use Borax to raise your pH. Muriatic will lower it.

If your Alk doesn't come up to at least 80, put in some baking soda to bring it up to 80 - 120 range.

Nice work on the CYA. :)

[waterbear]

I've just drained more than half my pool to get control of
my original CYA of >100.
Here are my readings after filling (filling was so much faster):

Size = 28850 gallons
Sun = all day, 90-100 summers, very dry
Pump: 6hrs per day (10am - 4pm)
Loc: southern california
SWG: old Aquarite with 2yr old cell

Cl = 1
1 to 3 ppm is fine with SWG
Alk = 70
Bring this up a bit with baking soda. Is your pool plaster, vinyl, or fiberglass. I don't see a calcium hardness reading.
PH = 7.2
Leave it there, it is in range (7.2- 7.6) and the SWG will cause your pH to always be going up. You will need regular additions of acid to correct this
CYA = 50
Goldline controls recommends between 60-80 ppm. I run mine in this range and it works great.
Salt = 1800 *I need to raise to 3000*
Once again Goldline controls recommends 3200ppm.
TDS = 2500
Ignore TDS, right now 1800 ppm of that is your salt! It will go up when you add more salt. Really a bogus test, especially for a salt pool!

Can someone please help me with some advice moving forward?

- shock at 15ppm with ultra bleach
Once the SWG is ajusted you probably won't have to shock. I have never had over .5 ppm CC and have never shocked my pool. If you do need to shock use bleach. Superchlorinating with the cell shortens it's useful life. IF your CC is ever over .5 ppm then go ahead and shock with bleach.
- add 288lbs of salt to get it up to 3000ppm
- add Muriatic acid to maintain 7.5 (SWG)
I let my pH drift up to about 7.8 then add enough acid to bring it down to 7.2. I only have to add acid every couple or 3 weeks to a month but my pool is fiberglass, if you have plaster you might need more and more frequent acid...nature of the beast with plaster.
- maintain Cl at 5ppm
Probably a bit high. I keep mine at maybe 3.
- increase Cl to
- pump times and duration ok?
pump run time and cell output will determine your chlorine levels with the SWG. You might want to increase your run time to about 8 hours a day and if the FC is a bit too high turn the cell down slightly. It's a balancing act.;)
is that all?

thanks in advance for your help!
Jack Hope this helps.

[jacksonlui]

thanks for all the advice guys!

I have a plaster pool.

I messed up on my Alk test, it's actually 150ppm, it's high and I didn't really do anything, just drained 60% water and refilled with tap water.

My water hardness tested to 950ppm. I'm in southern california, the water is very hard here. The only other alternative is to truck in filtered water, not sure if it's worth it.

PH = 7.5, I have a hard time going lower, it likes to stay at 7.8 for some reason

I've added 200lbs of salt and I'll see what it measures to tomorrow morning, don't want to drain again.

thanks again!
Jackson