New Member - New to pools with closing questions

[js8390]

Hello all. I have found some good information on these forums, enough to keep my pool going for the last month at least. It's coming time to think about closing/winterizing my pool. I have read countless threads and even watched some videos on the internet regarding what I need to do to ensure my pool is safe from freezing water. On to some details...

IG 18x36 21,800 Gallon pool
Vinyl Lined
Sand Filter with Praher Multiport Valve
1.5 HP Mustang '56-Frame' IG Pool Pump by Waterway
1 Skimmer, 1 Suction port about 1' below water level on deep end
2 pool returns

Currently on Baquacil, but converting to chlorine in the Spring.

I'm located in Wisconsin, so the temperature here DOES go below freezing for several days in a row out of the Winter. I have read countless articles and threads that explain the winterizing process. Here is what I've found...

Balance water
Backwash Filter
Drain pool below the return lines in the pool.
Use an air compressor or a shop vac to blow out the water in the lines.
(Some people say put an anti-freeze solution in the lines, others say not to)
While your blowing out the lines, as they blow water, plug them. Use a 'thingamabob' in the skimmer to allow for expansion. (I can't remember what it's called, but I have one)

The information I found on blowing the lines out shows the multiport on the 'closed' setting, and hooking an air compressor up to one of the drain plugs on the base of the pump. Am I right assuming this will charge the suction and return lines of the pool with air? (I can provide pictures if necessary, essentially my set-up is my two suction lines come together at a port that allows both to be open, or one or the other open. Through the pump, the filter, and back out to a split (no valve on this split) and back to the pool)

Remove plug at base of filter to allow draining.
Disconnect pump and filter and bring indoors if possible.
Cover pool with winter cover.

Assuming I have this all correct, I have an additional question to ask.

I plan on converting from baquacil to chlorine in the spring. For adding winterizing chemicals to the pool, should I even do this step? I don't really want to maintain my baquacil levels through the winter into next year, as chlorine is going to eat it all up anyways. If I can get away with less chlorine, wouldn't it be better? Or will my pool go to hell and make me have to fight in the Spring time to do the conversion?

I am still learning here. My fiance and me just bought our first home and it has a pool. I'm trying to avoid the $475 + chemicals cost my local pool company wants to charge for closing the pool. Thank you all in advance.

[PoolDoc]

I've always resisted trying to give instructions on clearing lines, since there's a LOT of variation in what needs to be done, depending on locale and the individual plumbing layout at YOUR pool. I will offer some comments:

1. Using a compressor to blow out lines will not reliably clear the lines, but *may* break them. The full explanation is complicated, but the bottom line is the FLOW from a compressor is too low, and the PRESSURE is too high. If you feed high pressure low flow air into the system, you may succeed at clearing the lines (due to the expansion of the high pressure air) but you may also succeed in breaking or shattering one of the lines or fittings.

2. To plug return lines, you have to remove the in-pool eyeball and replace it with either a rubber plug, or a PVC threaded plug.

3. Use of antifreeze is optional, but if you do use it make sure it's food-grade and not auto-grade antifreeze. Here's a link to Amazon:
Propylene Glycol - Food Grade USP - 1 Gallon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B006TTQTH4/poolbooks/)
Most RV supply stores also carry it.

4. Most valves need to be left in a half-open state; otherwise water trapped in the valve internals can cause freeze damage. Multiport valves MUST be left in the lid-up, between positions state. Gauges must be stored in doors.

[PoolDoc]

Oh, and to respond to your registration questions: people who ARE spammers, ALSO claim not to be, so the fact that you claim not to be a spammer tells me nothing.

Until you post, the primary thing that distinguishes spammers from non-spammers is anonymous registration. Spammers NEVER provide real addresses and phone numbers*. Since your registration was anonymous, you automatically got placed in the least privileged member category.

If you post a few times before fall 2014, your membership will auto-upgrade after 12 months. I hope to be posting some info for those who'd like more privileged access sooner, within the next month or so. But this will be an off-season-only opportunity, since I can't even keep up with fully valid registrations in-season.

* Ironically, I've now got a spammer crew, posting 10 - 15 new registrations each week, who ARE including real names and addresses. I'm amazed they are willing to go so far, but highly frustrated because they are difficult to weed out.