Help with balancing pool

[Dohcvtec]

Ok so here is what's going on we recently bought an above ground pool 15 feet by 42 inches so I have it estimated at around 3800 gallons . I filled the pool with well water and when it was filled up water looked dirty and green so I decided to go and get some of the 6 way test strips from Walmart to test the water . I know those are not that accurate but I'm thinkin purchasing a kit from here in the future so for the results i got these readings
TH- 1000
Fc-0
Ph-8.4
TA-240
Cya-30-50

Now from what I have been reading is to try and balance my ta first so I have been adding muratic acid for the past couple days . I have only been adding 3/4 of a cup a day which is the max I can put according to the label . Now the water is getting clearer but it seems I have too much iron in the water because filter comes out with a copper color residue and when I scrub the bottom of the pool I can see some of that same residue moving . Also my walls feel slimy what's could that be . Now for my other question should I keep adding muratic acid to try an lower my ta or add chlorine ? Numbers haven't moved one bit even with the acid . Thanks in advance for any help

[PoolDoc]

The only people who say "balance TA first" are chemical companies who want to sell you baking soda (sodium bicarbonate aka sodium hydrogen carbonate) at $2/pound! Don't be suckered!

BUT . . . with well water it's tough. Adding chlorine can make an iron mess. NOT adding chlorine will make an algae mess -- that's the slime you're feeling.

1. If you can get some polyquat immediately, do so (www.poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html), and add a dose every 2 days

2. Run your filter 24/7

3. Begin dosing with household 8.25% bleach, 1 cup at a time, directly in the skimmer or intake. Add some tonight (7/21) if possible. The slime is a warning your pool is about to turn green.

4. Read the "Super Simple" recipe -- you can use the dichlor doses from there. But you can't follow the recipe exactly because of the iron.
Super-simple-pool-chemistry-recipe-for-Intex-type-pools-start-up-&-routine-care (www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17055)

5. Read the muriatic acid page, linked in my signature. Then use acid -- approx 1 cup at a time -- to lower your pH gradually. This will also help you avoid an iron mess.

6. Get a cheap OTO / phenol red kit (yellow / red drops). You can get a better kit later.

[Dohcvtec]

Ok thanks for the response and sorry for all the questions I'm about to ask . So you say to get some polyquat is that the same as the hth super algae guard that's the only thing my Walmart has. I got the bleach and you say to add to skimmer or intake do you mean the spot where the water gets sucked into the filter? And for the dichlor I have some 1" chlorinating tabs would those work? I bought the 6 way test kit from Walmart so I should have a better reading tomorrow for you guys . The iron is going away slowly I read online about wrapping a towel around the filter to help it filter the iron and it seems like it has been working the iron just settles to the bottom so I have to brush the bottom of the pool every couple hours to help it go through the filter. While I was at Walmart I bought the hth natural clarifier and the hth super select shock treatment when do you guys think I should use these? And can I add the algae guard and chlorin and muratic acid all in the same day? And is the pool safe to swim in it how it is right now family is gettin anxious

[PoolDoc]

Read the polyquat page: www.poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html. That's the only way you'll be able to tell what is, and what isn't polyquat.

On an Intex, the intake is as close to a skimmer as you can get.

Clarifier is OK, if you do NOT over dose. Don't use any algaecides except polyquat; don't use any of the HTH shocks. They have 50 or so, and only 5 or 6 are OK. Most are a messed up chemical hobo-soup.

You can swim if the chlorine is over 2 ppm and the pH is between 7 and 8. Iron will stain swimwear but not people, and it's not toxic.

[Dohcvtec]

Ok I will order from that site . Can I add the muratic acid and chlorin tomorrow morning at the same time

[PoolDoc]

Opposite sides of the pool, or something similar -- make sure they are fully diluted before they mix with each other. Otherwise, you can add both.

(PoolSolutions is my site, too. The order links go to Amazon, not me, though I do get a commission. You are free to purchase locally, of course. You just have to read the chemical ingredients labels CAREFULLY!)

[Dohcvtec]

Ok so I just did the test and here are the results
Ph- 7.5
Ta- 300
Tc- 0

I added 1 cup of bleach right now should I keep on adding the muratic acid ? Any other advice on what my next step should be ?

[PoolDoc]

You can add acid till your pH reaches 6.8 - 7.0. If you maintain the pool at that pH for a while, the alkalinity will gradually come done.

Repeat bleach doses till you get the chlorine level to DARK yellow on an OTO drops testkit. We need to know what your stabiliser level is, but you can 'guesstimate' it, once you get your chlorine up:

1. Add chlorine in the evening. If it's gone in the AM, you still have algae, or something using up the chlorine. Dose during the day, but double the PM dose. Once your chlorine level stays unchanged overnight, THEN

2. Dose in the AM and watch the results.

3. If your chlorine disappears as soon as the sun is fully out (afternoon on daylights saving time), you have little or no stabilizer.

4. If your chlorine hardly changes during the day with full sun, you have a LOT of stabilizer.

5. But, to do this right, you'll need the K2006 kit. See the test kit page, linked in my signature block, for links to the correct items on Amazon.

[Dohcvtec]

Since I added chlorine about an hour ago how soon can I add another cup ?

[PoolDoc]

On a small pool, you can test chlorine levels an hour or so after adding IF the pump has been running.

[Dohcvtec]

Ok I just ran another test and my ph is the same and my tc is barely reading so I went ahead an added another dose and I checked my cya but my tube only reads to 30 ppm and that wasn't enough to make the black dot on bottom disappear

[PoolDoc]

Double your dose size.

Sounds like you may have almost no CYA -- when you mixed the CYA test solution and the pool water, did the mix remain almost clear? (You have to let it sit for about a minute.)

[Dohcvtec]

Yea i mixed it go 30 seconds but it was clear ok I will add two cups in a few hours

[PoolDoc]

OK, that gives us enough info to go on.

1. Go with a 4 cup (1 quart) dose of bleach this evening.

2. Assuming that you have NO slime, and NO green, tomorrow AM, you can switch to the "Super Simple Recipe (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17055)" for small pools. Even if you don't follow the recipe, this page will help you with many aspects of managing a small pool.

[Dohcvtec]

Ok here is an update . Around 4 yesterday I added a cup muratic acid to get my ph down some more and waited an hour and added the 4 cups of bleach . This morning pool was pretty clear but walls still feel slimy a little . In the morning I ran the test and my cl and br was at 2-4 a my ph at 7.8 so I added a cup of muratic acid . Just did another test and cl is same and ph went down to 7.5. How soon can I add some more acid ? Should I keep on adding bleach also? Would it be a good idea to use the hth clarifier right now or wait ? Is there any other way to get rid of the last of the iron it all just settles to the bottom.

[PoolDoc]

1. You can add bleach every hour, if you like.

2. It's hard to vacuum an Intex pool properly. We've heard good things about this cleaner family listed below. I'm just not sure they will retain the iron particles, even on the fine bag.

3. Using the clarifier might help IF the water is hazy. Getting better cartridges will help more. However, neither the clarifier nor the cartridges will help with debris on the bottom.

================================================== =================


The problem is, most folks with Intex type pools do not have an effective vacuum system, and Intex doesn't really have any accessories that are adequate. There are basically two options.

Manual Pool Vacuum:
Hydro Tools 1-1/4-Inch Diameter With Swivel Cuff Pool Vacuum Hose, 18' (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0032JSQHK/poolbooks/)
Poolmaster 27514 Classic Full View Triangular Vinyl Liner Vacuum (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0007PZN5K/poolbooks/)
Hydro Tools 8351 6- to 12-Foot Adjustable Blue Anodized Step-Up Telescopic Pool Pole (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0032JSQ5M/poolbooks/)

With the manual option, you can certainly remove the debris by vacuuming 'to waste', using siphon. You'll want to over-fill your pool first, before starting the siphon. Tie some sort of weight to the hose, to keep the 'out-of-the-pool' end from flopping back into the pool and breaking the siphon.

You may, or may not, be able to couple the hose to the suction inlet on your pool. If you can work out a way to do so, then you will not lose the water you vacuum with. You will of course get your filter dirty fast.

Battery Operated Vacuum:
Water Tech Pool Blaster Max (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001B3SKN4/poolbooks/)
Water Tech CATFISHPPV Pool Blaster, Catfish (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002GT91SK/poolbooks/)
Pool Blaster PBW022MF Micro Filter Bag (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005NOUJ6I/poolbooks/)

If you are interested in the battery vac -- and we've had pretty good reports on this brand -- call Water Tech *FIRST* and make sure that the fine bag will pick up debris like yours. It's possible that it may just go through the bag, so ask first.
Water Tech (http://watertechcorp.com/) (PowerBlaster Max page (http://watertechcorp.com/products-PBmax.htm))
10 Alvin Ct. Suite 111
East Brunswick, NJ 08816 USA
Tel: (800) 298-8800
e-mail: CustomerService@WaterTechCorp.com

[Dohcvtec]

How about the acid how often can it be added to bring the ph and ta down

[PoolDoc]

Again, you can add it as often as you like, so long as it has mixed. If you pour it in front of the return (where water re-enters the pool) you can probably add every hour.

[Dohcvtec]

Ok thanks pooldoc . What level should I keep the cl level since walls still feel slimy

[PoolDoc]

I can only guess, until you have CYA test results from the K2006 or the HTH 6-way (info on both on the SS recipe page), but for now if you get a cheap OTO / phenol red kit, a DARK yellow chlorine result should be OK -- that above what the test block will show, but around 5 - 10 ppm.

[Dohcvtec]

Well I have the 6 way from hth and I just did the cya test but again tube only goes to 30 and that wasn't enough to make the black dot on bottom disappear

[PoolDoc]

That means you have a CYA level of less than 30 ppm. IF solution was completely clear, it means you have a CYA level of less than 10 ppm

[Dohcvtec]

Solution was a little cloudy . Do I need to do something about that? Also on the 6 way test kit for the cl and ph test do you have to let it sit for a while in the test tubes to read or can you read it as soon as you add the drips and mix . Also pool is clear but has a little green shade to it what could that be and how could I get rid of it

[PoolDoc]

+ "a little cloudy" = CYA > 0 but CYA < 30 ppm - you need more. Do you have dichlor? Did you read the SS recipe page?

+ read both pH & chlorine instantly; OTO chlorine test reads free chlorine instantly, total chlorine (free + combined) after 1 minute or so.

+ Green shade? increase your chlorine doses; run your filter as much as possible.