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Dabikeman
07-05-2013, 10:34 AM
I have only owned a real pool for a year. Have an above ground 24 ft pool. opened it after the winter and found slight green. Now it is cloudy but clean. Have read that ph needs to be higher in order to make it clear. Using my AquaCheck strips my ph is at 6.8, my free chlorine is at .3 - .5 ppm , Alkalinity is 80 ppm and my stabilizer is at 30 ppm.

Should I continue testing with the strips or change to a Taylor test kit ?

Dabikeman
07-05-2013, 01:00 PM
For some one who is new to pools< I am finding a lot of useful information being shared here. Awesome.

Watermom
07-05-2013, 07:15 PM
Glad you think so. We do, too!

I see that you started three threads. I'm sure it is because when you posted, your post didn't not show up. That is because when a new member posts, the post goes to a moderation queue where it waits until one of us approves it and mods it in. So, it won't show up as soon as you post, but we do try and clear the queue multiple times per day so it usually doesn't take too long.

You should absolutely order a Taylor K-2006 or 2006C kit from the test kit link in my signature below. We don't trust test strips. In the meantime, go to Walmart and pick up an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops), a couple of boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle), and several jugs of plain, unscented bleach. Test your water and post the readings and someone will help you go from there.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

Dabikeman
07-07-2013, 11:21 PM
Tested my pool with test kit. I have the following. TC 4ppm , PH 6.8, Alk 110, Hardness 200. Have Borax in order to raise PH.

PoolDoc
07-08-2013, 03:13 PM
What is your stabilizer level? That is critical, especially when removing or controlling algae. Read the Best Guess page, linked in my signature.

membership updated.

Watermom
07-08-2013, 03:24 PM
He noted above stabilizer was 30ppm.

Get going with that Borax! If your kit reads pH of 6.8 that means it could actually be lower than that since 6.8 is the lowest reading on the kit.

Dabikeman
07-09-2013, 09:45 AM
Thanks , I have started adding Borax. Is there any set amounts to add in order to raise the ph ? I understand you need to give it time to work.

Dabikeman
07-16-2013, 12:54 AM
Thank for info about borax. Now my readings are FC 6.4 ppm , ph 7.2 ppm , Alk 200ppm , CH 170 ppm , CYA 30 ppm

Watermom
07-16-2013, 08:14 AM
How does the water look now? Why the rise in alk and CH? What kind of chlorine are you using -- meaning ingredients and not just product names.

Dabikeman
07-16-2013, 10:19 AM
The water is very clear now. Able to see the bottom. I am now using the K 2006 test kit, so I believe the change in Alk, and CH is from being able to properly test my water.

I have been using BioGuard Silk Tabs with Trichloro-s-triazinetrione 93.9% Other Ingredients 6.1% in a floating dispenser. Since they have helped with my chlorine levels planning to finsh what little I have left and then switch to liquid unscented bleach. Since my initial purchase of borax i have found it was sold out. I check the ingredients on Arm and Hammer washing soda and found it to be the sodium carbonate as is Borax. Also it was a lower price. :)

I am planning to take a vacation in August for about 10 days. Any suggestions as to what I should raise my levels to to keep things in check. My neighbor will keep an eye on things, but will not be testing water, just making sure nothing breaks.

PoolDoc
07-16-2013, 03:50 PM
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda = sodium carbonate (AKA soda ash)
20 Mule Team Borax = sodium tetraborate decahydrate.

Both raise pH; soda ash also raises alkalinity. Borax inhibits algae -- but you'd have to use over 12 boxes to get to that level. By the way, according to Walmart.com, borax is in stock in Lockport.

Regarding vacation, you have several options:

1. Raise CYA to 200+ ppm and chlorine to 35+ ppm. That will probably last till you get back. Not recommended, unless you are already nearly that high. If the 30 ppm above is the value from the K2006, this is not an option.

2. Raise the CYA to 50 ppm, and have your friend add 3/4 gallon of PLAIN 8.25% bleach every other day.

3. Raise the borates (from borax) level to 60+ ppm, put your filter on recirculate (circulate, but not filter) and add 1/2 quart of 60% polyquat when you leave, and 1/2 through your vacation. See www.poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html.

To raise your borax to 60+ ppm, you'll need to buy 10 boxes of borax and 3 gallons of muriatic acid. Add 4 boxes of borax SLOWLY through the skimmer with the pump on, and add the muriatic to the pool. Repeat. Then use the remaining 2 boxes of borax and gallon of muriatic to adjust the pH up or down, as needed. Leave the pump on for at least 4 hours after. Read the muriatic acid safe-handling page, linked in my signature, before adding the acid.

rbossert
08-05-2013, 02:25 PM
Can I safely raise my Cl to 35 with a vinyl liner without bleaching it?

PoolDoc
08-05-2013, 03:12 PM
I can't answer that absolutely: I've encountered liners that seemed to be bleached out at chlorine levels under 5 ppm. But, with a decent liner print (the liner can be OK, even if the inked print is not), FC=35 should not be a problem if CYA = 100+.

On the other hand, 35 ppm at CYA < 20 ppm probably WILL be a problem.