Booster pump won't start up...what to check?

[JimK]

Just opened the pool last week and am ready to put the Polaris 280 cleaner. Installed the cleaner and went to turn on the booster pump. The pump made a slight humming noise, then a soft click, now nothing. It won't come on at all. Waited a few minutes, tried again, and it just makes a humming/buzzing noise and will not run.

What should I check? Should I just get a new booster pump? It was installed in 2004 and is a Hayward Booster Pump model 5060.

Help!

[CarlD]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

[JimK]

Update:

I took the cover off the back but saw nothing unusual (no burnt or damaged looking components). I took the cover off the front and the impeller will not turn. I guessing this means the bearings have seized? Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the impeller....

Does this sound like an easy DIY repair, or should I get a new pump?

[JimK]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

Hehe...I was just posting at the same time. Yes, it appears the bearings have seized. Any idea how to free them? Is replacing bearings an easy DIY project for a novice? I was able to replace the seals on the main pump last year.

[JimK]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

Update 2:

It's alive!

While trying to unscrew the impeller, I got it freed up and it seemed to turn smoothly in both directions. Put everything back together and it started up fine this time. It's not running any noisier than normal, so hopefully that means its OK. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it does.

Thanks for the quick response, Carl. :)

[CarlD]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

[JimK]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

Thanks.

Is the "bell" the cover on the back? The two screws on the back were pretty corroded, but being careful I managed to get them out. Before reinstalling, I gave the screw/screw holes a good shot of WD40. However, it seems the threads on the screws are shot since the really don't tighten. That's OK though, as the cover (bell?) is still pretty secure.

[CarlD]

No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.

[Charlie_R]

Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.

If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.

[CarlD]

Anti-Seize is good stuff...used to use it on a MC. It's the opposite of Loc-Tite.

Usually a heli-coil kit is the EASY part of the job. It's getting the broken screw out, esp when the screw is small, and, worse, when it's hardened. I've never used one as small as 8-32, but I have used 6mm many times (again, on motorcycles).

[JimK]

No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.

Ah, I didn't get that far into the pump/motor. I ran it for about 3hours yesterday and it did fine. Any suggestions to prevent it happening again next winter? Would it hurt the motor/pump to run it dry for a couple seconds, say maybe once a month over the winter, to prevent it from seizing again?


Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.

If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that to use in the future. I noticed that the bolts holding the cover over the impeller (on the front) had some kind of thick lubricant on the threads. Perhaps this is the same stuff you're talking about.

[Charlie_R]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that to use in the future. I noticed that the bolts holding the cover over the impeller (on the front) had some kind of thick lubricant on the threads. Perhaps this is the same stuff you're talking about.

Probably is.

As for removal of the old screw, there are many ways of doing that.

Here is a link that you might find interesting about one of those off beat ways (hope it's ok to post a link to another forum!): http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/7451-A-Spark-Eroder-or-how-to-get-those-broken-taps-and-drills-out

[CarlD]

Where did you keep the pump, Jim? I usually keep the pump in the basement but last winter, I left it in the shed. I won't do that again. I suspect some moisture got in and froze. My basement's warm and very dry in the winter. That's where the new pump goes EVERY year.

[JimK]

Where did you keep the pump, Jim? I usually keep the pump in the basement but last winter, I left it in the shed. I won't do that again. I suspect some moisture got in and froze. My basement's warm and very dry in the winter. That's where the new pump goes EVERY year.

Both pumps stay outside (I don't remove them, just remove the drain plugs). Here on the SE coast of VA it doesn't get/stay below freezing very often. Seems like a big hassle to remove them.

For reference, they were installed in March 2004.

[CarlD]

Everything in my system has quick releases and/or cutoff valves. At the end of the season I pop off the two on the pump, unscrew the banding screw, drain it and store it...now in the warm, dry basement again!

[JimK]

Everything in my system has quick releases and/or cutoff valves. At the end of the season I pop off the two on the pump, unscrew the banding screw, drain it and store it...now in the warm, dry basement again!

Interesting.

I'm having trouble picturing it though. I also don't know what a banding screw is. Can you post pics?

For power do you just plug them in? Mine are hard wired to the power source.

Thanks. :)

[BigDave]

I'm pretty sure CarlD meant bonding screw.
My pump is powered through a twist-lock receptacle and plug on a circuit with GFCI installed just for it.

[JimK]

I'm pretty sure CarlD meant bonding screw.
My pump is powered through a twist-lock receptacle and plug on a circuit with GFCI installed just for it.

Thanks. Is the plug outside exposed to the weather or inside?

So what's a bonding screw?

Looked up in Google and it seems to be a screw used used in a electrical panel for grounding? Not sure how this relates to being able to easily remove a pool pump for winter storage.

[BigDave]

The receptacle/plug is in an outside box with an in-use cover - code in my town for all new outside recptacles.

The Bonding screw is how you attach the pool's bonding system to the pump.

Bonding is a little different than grounding. A pool's bond is intended to ensure that everything conductive in and around the pool is kept at the same electrical potential(voltage). The idea is that the bond wire carries any electrical current that mat be present in and around the pool instead of swimmers making the circuit. Grounding provides a path for electricity in the event that the electrical insulation in a piece of equipment should fail.

[JimK]

The receptacle/plug is in an outside box with an in-use cover - code in my town for all new outside recptacles.

The Bonding screw is how you attach the pool's bonding system to the pump.

Bonding is a little different than grounding. A pool's bond is intended to ensure that everything conductive in and around the pool is kept at the same electrical potential(voltage). The idea is that the bond wire carries any electrical current that mat be present in and around the pool instead of swimmers making the circuit. Grounding provides a path for electricity in the event that the electrical insulation in a piece of equipment should fail.

Ah, I think I got it. There's a bare wire connected to the outside of the pumps. I believe this same wire is also connected around the perimeter of the pool (I remember seeing it when the pool was being constructed). I figured this was a ground wire, I see now this is a bond wire; thanks for the clarification. :)

Also, I guess I need to check local codes to see what's allowed in reference to hooking up the pump to power.

I like CarlD's idea of being able to easily disconnect the pumps to store over the winter. I imagine this would increase their lifespan. It's just a matter of figuring out how and if I can do it.

[BigDave]

I like CarlD's way as well. I copied it. I did leave the pump outside last winter as I was closing durring hurricane Sandy but I'd prefer to put it away inside.

[CarlD]

I've seen banding and bonding. Not sure why there are both, but...it's the same thing. Since I pull off all my plumbing for the winter, I have a ball valve, quick release under my skimmer, another BV/QR at my low drain, a QR at my return, a BV/QR for each of my solar circuits, a BV/QR for the solar panels in general, a BV/QR between the SWCG manifold and the return, a QR on either side of the SWCG manifold, a QR where the return exits the filter, a BV/QR where the drains reach the pump, a QR on top of the pump and a QR on the filter from the pump, and a QR on the waste line.

Everything pops off for winter storage.

[JimK]

I've seen banding and bonding. Not sure why there are both, but...it's the same thing. Since I pull off all my plumbing for the winter, I have a ball valve, quick release under my skimmer, another BV/QR at my low drain, a QR at my return, a BV/QR for each of my solar circuits, a BV/QR for the solar panels in general, a BV/QR between the SWCG manifold and the return, a QR on either side of the SWCG manifold, a QR where the return exits the filter, a BV/QR where the drains reach the pump, a QR on top of the pump and a QR on the filter from the pump, and a QR on the waste line.

Everything pops off for winter storage.

Since my booster pump is connect with a flexible hose, it would probably be easy to set it up for easy removal and installation. However, the main pump is is plumbed with PVC with hardly any space between elbow joints to install a QR/BV. All the equipment sits on a small pad, so is a bit crowded with no room around it to expand (it sits in a corner formed by the chimney and the house with a walkway in front of it). I'll have to study it further to see what might work.

I'll remember this next time I have a pool installed. This is our first pool and it has been quite a learning experience.

I wonder, if removing the pumps for the winter isn't a viable option, would it help to at least cover them up?

[BigDave]

Sorry CarlD, I didn't intend to correct you on the band/bond. I'd never heard it that way and figured it was a spellcheck approved typo.

[CarlD]

I wasn't offended Dave, didn't even think about it. Not to worry.