PDA

View Full Version : Replacing Seals on pump; original or aftermarket parts?



JimK
09-03-2012, 10:01 AM
My 1 HP Hayward Super Pump (SP2607X10) is leaking. I'm thinking it just needs new seals since it hasn't been serviced since it was installed new in 2004.

Here is a link to a place I've ordered from before that carries parts for my pump/motor:

http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_pumps_hayward_superpump.htm

It appears I can either order the seals individually (genuine Hayward parts) or buy the "Go Kit" (aftermarket parts) that includes all the needed seals in one package at reduced cost.

Would the aftermarket seal kit be fine? Or should I stick with the original Hayward parts (I noticed #13 on the parts list is listed twice? Does this mean I need both parts? I certainly want to make sure I get all the needed parts.)

Thanks for any guidance and suggestions. Since I've never done this before, tips on installation are also welcome!

waterbear
09-03-2012, 11:56 AM
Get the Go kit. They are high quality and contain all the parts you need for an overhaul. They are pretty much what most people in the industry use for pump repairs, IMHO. Some of the Go kits are designed for more than one pump model or for different revisions of the same pump so there might be some extra parts (usually o-rings) in the kit that might not be needed.

Main advice is not to touch the ceramic seal surface with your fingers (skin oil can ruin them) and make sure yhou don't install the seals backwards (look at the old ones before you take them off).
IMHO, the trickiest part of replacing seals is removing the impeller.

JimK
09-03-2012, 12:07 PM
Get the Go kit. They are high quality and contain all the parts you need for an overhaul. They are pretty much what most people in the industry use for pump repairs, IMHO. Some of the Go kits are designed for more than one pump model or for different revisions of the same pump so there might be some extra parts (usually o-rings) in the kit that might not be needed.

Main advice is not to touch the ceramic seal surface with your fingers (skin oil can ruin them) and make sure yhou don't install the seals backwards (look at the old ones before you take them off).
IMHO, the trickiest part of replacing seals is removing the impeller.

Thanks. I'll order the Go Kit.

Any tips on removing the impeller? I read the owners manual but I'm still not clear on how to keep the shaft from turning when removing/installing the impeller. Perhaps it will be clearer when I take it apart?

waterbear
09-03-2012, 03:12 PM
http://youtu.be/fq2lpjaJo2M
http://youtu.be/e1RWd6lae9Q
http://youtu.be/WT6FaK3MX4o
http://youtu.be/Hy1meV5Y4iQ

JimK
09-03-2012, 06:49 PM
http://youtu.be/fq2lpjaJo2M
http://youtu.be/e1RWd6lae9Q
http://youtu.be/WT6FaK3MX4o
http://youtu.be/Hy1meV5Y4iQ

Thanks!:D I'll take a look at those.

JimK
09-03-2012, 07:33 PM
Watching the videos was a big help and made the instructions in the manual more clear.

I do have a safety question concerning the process to remove the impeller. The manual and the videos say to use a wrench at the back of the pump to keep the shaft from spinning when removing/installing the impeller. My question concerns the safety of working around the capacitor. Of course I'll make sure the power is off at the breaker, but if I understand correctly, the capacitor stores power temporarily so you could get shocked even with power disconnected.

How long should power be disconnected to allow the capacitor to discharge so it is safe to handle?

I did see a couple places where they said to discharge the capacitor by shorting the leads. However, it warn the capacitor could explode by doing this.:eek: Doesn't sound like something I want to try.

Thanks again for your help.

PS - I did see a post where someone said to use a screwdriver to carefully insert into the cooling fins to keep the shaft from spinning. Would this be a safer alternative? Or would this risk damaging the pump?

waterbear
09-04-2012, 12:00 PM
It should not be necessary to discharge the cap since it can be moved out of the way by unscrewing the bracket that holds it in place for the wrench to fit easily. Sometimes you can fit in the wrench without removing the cap but it only takes a few seconds and it makes the process so much easier.

HOWEVER I would disconnect the wires and plumbing from the pump and do the work on a workbench and not in the installed location! Trust me on this. Even with the breakers off it is still safer to disconnect the power wires and having the pump on a workbench will make your job MUCH easier! Remember that the impeller is reverse threaded so yo want to turn it counterclockwise (the opposite of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey).

JimK
09-04-2012, 02:25 PM
It should not be necessary to discharge the cap since it can be moved out of the way by unscrewing the bracket that holds it in place for the wrench to fit easily. Sometimes you can fit in the wrench without removing the cap but it only takes a few seconds and it makes the process so much easier.

HOWEVER I would disconnect the wires and plumbing from the pump and do the work on a workbench and not in the installed location! Trust me on this. Even with the breakers off it is still safer to disconnect the power wires and having the pump on a workbench will make your job MUCH easier! Remember that the impeller is reverse threaded so yo want to turn it counterclockwise (the opposite of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey).

Thanks for the great tips. I'm now feeling a bit more confident doing this.

JimK
09-06-2012, 08:30 PM
I replaced the seals today without much trouble and so far the pump doesn't seem to be leaking, at least not as much as before. It's hard to tell since it has been raining today. I'll be able to tell better once the concrete pad it sits on dries out.

I'm not sure if this is because these seals are aftermarket parts, but the housing gasket and the strainer basket gasket were a little too large. I did manage to seat them properly after fussing with them a bit. The other seals seem to fit perfectly.

Thanks Waterbear, I greatly appreciate your help.:)

waterbear
09-07-2012, 01:49 AM
The gasket and o rings often have to be worked into place whether OEM or aftemarket and the Aladdin parts such as the Go kits are pretty good quality and widely used. The only part of the theirs that I am not crazy about are some of their skimmer baskets.

JimK
09-07-2012, 10:59 AM
It's not suppose to rain today so when I get home this evening I should be able to tell if there are any more leaks.

JimK
09-07-2012, 08:58 PM
The equipment pad is dry!:D

The pump isn't leaking and the PVC repair (another thread) is holding.:)

waterbear
09-08-2012, 11:13 AM
great! bet you feel good about it that you did it yourself!

JimK
09-08-2012, 08:48 PM
great! bet you feel good about it that you did it yourself!

Yes it does. Feels even better I saved a bunch of money.:D