Pool Water Turned Green After Adding Shock

[tdoss]

I've been a fan of poolsolution for years but now find myself in need of assistance.

Somehow my levels got out of whack...so I added chlorine bleach like always but it wasn't responding. My wife went to a pool store and then bought a crazy amount of shock and the pool became crazy green now and my test kit ran out of certain tests...so I bought a new test kit (Taylor K-2006) and I've tested everything that I can.

I'm not sure where to start so I'll post every test I found and hopefully someone can direct me where to begin.

Free Chlorine is present
Free Chlorine is .7
Combined Chlorine is .3
PH is 8.0+ (or higher...can't tell)
Muriatic Acid test says 5-6 drops
Alkalinity is at 90ppm
Calcium Hardness is 350ppm
CYA...this one I'm not sure...I believe higher than 100. I tested for it and the spot disappeared before I could get the solution to the 100 line or "lower"...so I assume it's over 100.


My pool is an inground pool. It's 30' x 13' rectangle. It's a "volleyball" pool...where both ends are around 4' deep and the middle is 5' deep. I estimate my total volume to be around 13,100 gallons. I have a 2hp Hayward pump. I have a Sta-Rite filter system. I have "The Pool Cleaner" pool cleaner. My filter runs 5 hours per day during midday. It's roughly 90+ degrees here in Southern California, Riverside County.

Please help. I know I should be able to help myself but I've read and been on this site for years and have been using liquid bleach, borax, baking soda and muriatic acid for years from your suggestions but I'm overwhelmed on this one and am not sure what I need to do first and how to proceed.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[PoolDoc]

You need to read this: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?9755

Your privilege status when I update your membership is dependent on that info . . . but we also need your Pool Chart info.

Meanwhile, retest your CYA, after diluting 2:1 with distilled water ($1 for 1gal jug at Walmart). Mix 1/4 cup pool water with 1/2 cup distilled; test; multiply x 3.

And . . . READ the Best Guess page linked in my signature . . . and then dump the 4 gallons of plain 6% bleach you ALSO got at Walmart into your pool ;)

Finally, read the muriatic acid guide linked in my signature, and tomorrow, start adjust the pH with muriatic acid. Take your pH below 7.5 before you stop.

Plan on 4 gallons bleach each evening for at least the next 4 days. BRUSH the heck out of the pool after the 2nd evening dose.

[Watermom]

What are the ingredients of the shock your wife bought? How much of it did you add? Before this, had you only been using bleach? I'm trying to understand how your CYA got so high.

Welcome to the Pool Forum, by the way!

[PoolDoc]

just entered your pool chart data and updated your membership - - you probably want to run your filter 24/7, till you get your water cleaned up.

[tdoss]

Thanks for updating my pool chart. I read the "getting started thread" and thought I should make the chart first, then post. I tried entering that before I started a thread and I guess it doesn't work that way.

I have no idea what was in that shock. I don't know why my CYA is so high...I've NEVER added cyanuric acid (unless it was through shock inadvertently). I bought my first bottle of cyanuric acid granules from Home Depot two days ago just in case I need it.

I tested my CYA again using my K-2006 kit. I bought some distilled water but I didn't understand how I should test it by multiplying drops by 3. The test kit I have says to mix 7ml of pool water...add one of the ingredients...I think r0013 until it hits 14ml mark.

Then...mix that up for 30 seconds. Then add that to the smaller test tube until you can't see the little black dot at the bottom. I did it twice and both times it disappeared before it hit the 100 mark on the little tube. As the tube fills up...the number goes down...to something like 30. Am I using the right tube? Am I doing this test properly? I have no idea how I'd use distilled water and count any drops. Oh wait...would I mix as you suggested...then dropped drip by drip until spot disappears and then multiply by 3?

The bleach I'm using is L.A.'s Totally Awesome Bleach...but I just noticed that my jugs have 96oz. So...I'll increase it to make up that difference.

Here's the new test results after 4 gallons of bleach per day and 1 full gallon of muriatic acid. I haven't had the filter on 24hrs but I've increased it tremendously...to 12-14hrs.

4.6ppm FC
.4ppm CC
7.5 PH = with the drop test it says 2 drops to get it to 7.2PH
80ppm Alkalinity
360 Calcium Hardness
100+ ppm CYA (I don't know how much but it doesn't get to 100 before the spot disappears...if it's incrementally like it is at 80, 90 and 100...I'd estimate somewhere like 130ppm.

[PoolDoc]

You should be able to enter the chart, after you register, but before you post. Actually, you can enter data before you register, but I have to dump it, because without a user name I can't match it up.

With a green pool and a CYA>100 ppm, you need to add 30 ppm FC tonight (30/PF9 = 3lbs chlorine gas equiv) which is 6 *gallons* of 6% (check the %!) bleach or 8 96oz jugs.

Test your chlorine the following morning, and add bleach to return levels to 30 ppm (3.5 ppm per 96oz jug of 6%)

When you test your chlorine, use the 10 ml sample size instead of the 25 ml sample -- saves reagent, and you almost never need to know chlorine levels to the nearest 0.2 ppm.

Distilled water + CYA test:

1. Get a 1 gallon jug of distilled -- not bottled, not spring, not natural, but DISTILLED -- water.
2. Collect a sample of pool water.
3. Pour 2/3 of a cup of DISTILLED water into a CLEAN container.
4. Pour 1/3 of POOL water into the same container; mix.
5. Collect your 14 ml of CYA test sample from the MIX in #4
6. Add 14 ml of melamine (R0013) reagent to the test bottle. Mix
7. Wait 15 seconds; mix again.
8. Wait 45 seconds; then test.
9. Multiply results x 3

[tdoss]

I got home really late last night so I added chlorine and muriatic acid and went to bed before checking or responding to this thread so this is what I did and where we're at right now:

I added six (6) more jugs (96oz each) of bleach. It does not say the percentage anywhere on this bottle (which is one reason why I listed what type I was using just in case I'm not using the correct type).

I added half a gallon of Muriatic Acid.

I tested today and this is what I got:

13.6 ppm FC (tripling the previous test from two days ago). Also...I still used the 25ml test just so we're comparing apples to apples. Next test, I'll gladly switch to 10ml so I can save as much of the test drops as I can.

0 CC (Is this right? I even added some extra drops to try to get it to turn pink and it wouldn't...did I do something wrong?)

7.5 PH (this didn't move even with the half gallon more of Muriatic acid so I added the rest of the gallon after my tests today).

I broke out my old test kit using OTO drops and it looks like the shade of yellow for chlorine is darker than the highest mark of 5. I also tested the PH using it's Phenol Red drops and it showed the PH around 7.2. I trusted my new, more advanced kit and added the rest of the Muriatic acid like I said above.


Now...for the CYA testing...I have to start by apologizing...I'm not sure why I'm having so much trouble understanding and following directions on this but here are my current questions involving the distilled water (I made sure I have distilled...one gallon is $0.88 at Walmart).

At step 5 you say to collect 14ml of the test sample from mix in step #4. I question this because the test kit I have says to take 7ml test and then add R0013 until you hit 14ml mark. However you're saying to collect 14ml of the test sample and then add 14ml of the R0013. I guess it's all the same proportions but my kit won't hold that much so I'm assuming I'm using another clean container to hold the new mixture of 14ml of sample and 14ml of R0013. Please confirm.

I'm still confused by step #9. In my test kit, it says to mix sample and R0013 together for 30 seconds and then pour into the small tube until the dot just disappears. I can absolutely drop, drip by drip, counting and then multiplying however the math seems off to me. The reason being...in my little tube...the less mixture I use to make the dot disappear, the higher the number line on the side of the tube. The more of the solution I add...the lower the number. It starts at 100 and the lines steadily go UP the tube until it reaches 30 near the top.

If I add drops...counting and then multiplying by 3...then the more I add...obviously, the higher my result will be. That seems completely converse to what my kit does...or am I completely misunderstanding this kit?

Would it help if I took a picture of the little tube I'm talking about? This is a link to a picture of a tube...not mine but one that seems to demonstrate what I'm talking about. The more I add...the lower the number:

http://www.poolplaza.com/mm5/graphics/2009/TAY9193-F.jpg

[PoolDoc]

I added six (6) more jugs (96oz each) of bleach. It does not say the percentage anywhere on this bottle (which is one reason why I listed what type I was using just in case I'm not using the correct type).

Was this Walmart bleach? Bleach with no listed % is probably VERY low. You might want to check the label again -- I'm not sure if genuine bleach can be sold without a %; Walmart Great Value bleach is listed at 6%



I'm still confused by step #9. In my test kit, it says to mix sample and R0013 together for 30 seconds and then pour into the small tube until the dot just disappears. I can absolutely drop, drip by drip, counting and then multiplying however the math seems off to me. The reason being...in my little tube...the less mixture I use to make the dot disappear, the higher the number line on the side of the tube. The more of the solution I add...the lower the number. It starts at 100 and the lines steadily go UP the tube until it reaches 30 near the top.

If I add drops...counting and then multiplying by 3...then the more I add...obviously, the higher my result will be. That seems completely converse to what my kit does...or am I completely misunderstanding this kit?

The CYA test is NOT a drop count!

Watch the Taylor videos from this page: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17157

[tdoss]

Was this Walmart bleach? Bleach with no listed % is probably VERY low. You might want to check the label again -- I'm not sure if genuine bleach can be sold without a %; Walmart Great Value bleach is listed at 6%




The CYA test is NOT a drop count!

Watch the Taylor videos from this page: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17157

Then what am I multiplying by 3? The video says to simply read the water level on the tube. So...if the water level ends up at the 100 line when the dot disappears, do I still multiply by 3 and have 300 as my result?

Also...you didn't clarify on the 7ml versus 14ml question above. The video and my instructions say to go to 7ml line with sample and add R0013 till you reach 14ml line. You're saying to use 14ml sample and 14ml of R0013. I just want to make sure. And to do that...I'll need to use another container to dump the 14ml of sample into and then the subsequent 14ml of R0013 into to mix.

[Watermom]

You don't multiply by 3 on the CYA test. You read the number on the side of the tube when you get to the point where you can no longer see the black dot. 100 is the limitation on the test. Did the dot disappear at 100 or could you still see it?

Use the 7ml sample of pool water and then add 7ml of R0013.

[Charlie_R]

He was asking about the diluted as suggested by Ben, on the CYA test. His normal test is >100.

From PoolDoc's post above:


Distilled water + CYA test:

1. Get a 1 gallon jug of distilled -- not bottled, not spring, not natural, but DISTILLED -- water.
2. Collect a sample of pool water.
3. Pour 2/3 of a cup of DISTILLED water into a CLEAN container.
4. Pour 1/3 of POOL water into the same container; mix.
5. Collect your 14 ml of CYA test sample from the MIX in #4
6. Add 14 ml of melamine (R0013) reagent to the test bottle. Mix
7. Wait 15 seconds; mix again.
8. Wait 45 seconds; then test.
9. Multiply results x 3

As I understand it, Ben did a typo in the instructions. Should be 7mL diluted pool water, then R-0013 to 14mL mark, mix, let stand 30sec, etc. Then yes, multiply what you see on the side of the tube by 3.

[tdoss]

You don't multiply by 3 on the CYA test. You read the number on the side of the tube when you get to the point where you can no longer see the black dot. 100 is the limitation on the test. Did the dot disappear at 100 or could you still see it?

Use the 7ml sample of pool water and then add 7ml of R0013.

I did that and the dot disappeared before it got to the 100 line...as I described earlier in the thread.

I'm looking for clarification on the distilled water + CYA test that pooldoc describes above.

[tdoss]

He was asking about the diluted as suggested by Ben, on the CYA test. His normal test is >100.

From PoolDoc's post above:


As I understand it, Ben did a typo in the instructions. Should be 7mL diluted pool water, then R-0013 to 14mL mark, mix, let stand 30sec, etc. Then yes, multiply what you see on the side of the tube by 3.

Ah...this makes sense...I believe he's trying to dilute the mixture so that I can get some sort of a reading on the tube from 100 to 30...then I'd multiply that result by 3 to get my real number which I presume will be somewhere around 130-150.

I'll use the 7ml distilled + sample mixture plus 7ml of R0013 to get to 14ml and will multiply the result by 3 and will report back.

Also, all week...I've filled the floating tablet things with bleach tablets and let them float.

I added another six (6) 96oz jugs of that bleach I'm using. It's L.A.'s Totally Awesome Bleach. It says it contains Sodium Hypochlorite but does not tell the percentage. I buy it at the .99 cent store. I've emailed the company to inquire about the percentage. Once it's all gone...I'll switch to Wal-Mart or somewhere that carries bleach with the percentage listed on the bottle/label.

I did a couple quick tests just now and this is where I'm at:

22ppm FC
.5 - 1ppm CC

Is that CC correct? I've been adding this bleach all week and the FC is rising as expected but I'm unfamiliar with CC and it appears to be lowering or almost non-existent.

[PoolDoc]

I don't have a K2006 here -- is the sample bottle 7 ml + 7 ml, instead of 14 ml + 14 ml? If so, it's indeed a typo.

But the point is you dilute POOL water 1:2 with DISTILLED water, mix that, and test the mix, as if it was pool water.

THEN, after testing, you multiply the test result by 3.

I hope this is clear.

Two other points:

1. The CYA test is NOT a drop count test; you simply add sample till the dot disappears, and then read the result on the side of the container.
2. Other dilutions are possible. If you dilute 1:1 (half pool water, half distilled) you multiply by 2; if you dilute 1:3 (1/4 pool water; 3/4 distilled, you multiply by 4.

[Charlie_R]

K2006 is indeed 7mL + 7mL.

[tdoss]

I don't have a K2006 here -- is the sample bottle 7 ml + 7 ml, instead of 14 ml + 14 ml? If so, it's indeed a typo.

But the point is you dilute POOL water 1:2 with DISTILLED water, mix that, and test the mix, as if it was pool water.

THEN, after testing, you multiply the test result by 3.

I hope this is clear.

Two other points:

1. The CYA test is NOT a drop count test; you simply add sample till the dot disappears, and then read the result on the side of the container.
2. Other dilutions are possible. If you dilute 1:1 (half pool water, half distilled) you multiply by 2; if you dilute 1:3 (1/4 pool water; 3/4 distilled, you multiply by 4.

It makes perfect sense now. You're diluting it so I can get the reading somewhere on my test tube between 30 and 100 because mine is somewhere beyond 100. I like it...very smart fix. I'll do that and report back.

Sidenote: I replied to the email but never heard back...is there any way I qualify for an upgrade so I can reply without waiting for someone to approve?

[tdoss]

OK...this is where I'm at:

22ppm FC
.5 - 1ppm CC
7.2 PH

145-150 CYA (the test described above by pooldoc gave me a result that just passed the 50 line, going towards 40...so multiplying by 3...I'm very close to 150).

My pool is still incredibly green. I've never seen it like this. It doesn't appear to be sticking to the walls much but the water is so incredibly green that I can't see the bottom and I just can't tell if it's getting any better yet. I'm sure at some point...it will tip over a certain peak and all the green will be destroyed.

What should I focus on now with all of the numbers I've provided?

[PoolDoc]

Wow. This is the 2nd case like this, running right now. The first case didn't get good results till the chlorine levels exceeded 40 ppm, but they had lower CYA levels than you.

PLUS, you've got a concrete pool, so we don't need to worry about making a liner fade. OK, each gallon of 6% household bleach will add about 4.5 ppm to your pool (PF9 x 0.5lbs/Chlorine gas equiv per gallon of 6% bleach).

So, tomorrow evening (or tonight, if you can) add 11 gallons of plain 6% bleach (~50 ppm). If that doesn't have an effect, follow the next evening with 16 gallons. I wouldn't bother with K2006 chlorine testing -- you use up your FAS drops. Just test with OTO -- you should be dark orange after 30 seconds with OTO, AFTER you've added your doses. You might even get brownish, after the 2nd dose.

BUT . . . you need to KILL your algae, not wrestle with it!

And . . . if you are not already doing so, run your pump 24/7.

[tdoss]

Wow. This is the 2nd case like this, running right now. The first case didn't get good results till the chlorine levels exceeded 40 ppm, but they had lower CYA levels than you.

PLUS, you've got a concrete pool, so we don't need to worry about making a liner fade. OK, each gallon of 6% household bleach will add about 4.5 ppm to your pool (PF9 x 0.5lbs/Chlorine gas equiv per gallon of 6% bleach).

So, tomorrow evening (or tonight, if you can) add 11 gallons of plain 6% bleach (~50 ppm). If that doesn't have an effect, follow the next evening with 16 gallons. I wouldn't bother with K2006 chlorine testing -- you use up your FAS drops. Just test with OTO -- you should be dark orange after 30 seconds with OTO, AFTER you've added your doses. You might even get brownish, after the 2nd dose.

BUT . . . you need to KILL your algae, not wrestle with it!

And . . . if you are not already doing so, run your pump 24/7.

Sounds like a plan. I added 14 jugs of this bleach that I have (96oz each) in order to be equivalent to 11 gallons.

I'll test with OTO tomorrow sometime. Last test with it showed it to be a deep yellow so I'm sure it'll be orange tomorrow.

The filter is running 24/7 for last couple days and will continue.

I appreciate all your efforts in trying to get me squared away. This pool has my wife very depressed right now and getting it back to crystal clear will go a long way towards our household's happiness. Like they always say, "A happy wife equals a happy life."

[tdoss]

SUCCESS!!!

Well, at least a successful change in it's color. The pool has gone from a deep, dark green to a blue-green. It's not clear yet, but we're obviously on our way in the right direction.

I tested with my super kit and my old OTO kit just because I really want this pool to get back to balance.

Here are my results:

33.5 FC
1 CC
PH is 7.0-7.1 (I haven't put in any more Muriatic acid since the other day..I'm surprised to see this number go down from yesterday...should I add something to bump it up to 7.2?)

I also did the OTO test and found the deep yellow from yesterday has become a dark orange/almost red.

So...should I continue to put in bleach tonight or let it settle a bit?

------------------------------------------------------

Pretty soon, I believe we'll have this problem solved...when that happens, at what point is it OK for us to get in the pool?

I've added so much bleach this week that I'd be afraid for anyone to enter the pool.

[PoolDoc]

It's safe now. I just finished a new cut and paste sticky on the topic.

Ben

================================================== ==========

+ Over the 15 years PoolSolutions and the PoolForum have been active, we've gradually accumulated evidence, and gained confidence, that concerns about swimming in high chlorine levels completely without foundation, and that the EPA's rule for chlorine bucket labels, of "no swimming till chlorine levels fall below 3 ppm", is simply floating in the air. But, it was not till this year, 2012, that we were able to put the last nail in that coffin.

It turns our that dermatologists have been using 50 - 100 ppm "bleach baths" (search Google for it! (https://www.google.com/search?q=bleach+bath)) to treat a variety of skin conditions and infections, in both adult and pediatric patients. This treatment is still an element of recommended dermatological practice. A 50 ppm chlorine level in a tub with NO stabilizer, is equivalent to a 150 ppm OR HIGHER chlorine level in a stabilized pool. In most home pools, CYA levels range from 20 - 100 ppm.

Two cautions however: bleach baths don't involve opening your eyes underwater. And, patients being treated with bleach baths don't wear swimsuits! People, generally are FAR more chlorine tolerant than swimwear, and human eyes are more senstive to chlorine, than the rest of your body.

So, while you can safely SWIM at 50 ppm even with CYA = 0 ppm, you wouldn't want to wear a swimsuit when you did, or open your eyes underwater. With CYA = 100 ppm, it's a different story. I'm currently operating a large commercial pool at CYA = 80 - 120 ppm, and FC = 15 - 30 ppm. There have been NO complaints or evidence of either irritation OR swimwear damage.

[Spensar]

Also, all week...I've filled the floating tablet things with bleach tablets and let them float.


If these are the normal chlorine pucks, they add stabilizer, so you may have the source of the high CYA levels. If you post up the info on the brand and type of tablets, the pros here can let you know. If would stop using them until you know for sure, and it is most likely they increasing the CYA level.

[tdoss]

If these are the normal chlorine pucks, they add stabilizer, so you may have the source of the high CYA levels. If you post up the info on the brand and type of tablets, the pros here can let you know. If would stop using them until you know for sure, and it is most likely they increasing the CYA level.

Oh wow...I never even considered my pucks...dang.

Ok, I'll find out what they are and post.

Thanks a lot guys...really! I'm learning so much and I've been doing this for years.

[tdoss]

It's safe now. I just finished a new cut and paste sticky on the topic.

Ben

================================================== ==========

+ Over the 15 years PoolSolutions and the PoolForum have been active, we've gradually accumulated evidence, and gained confidence, that concerns about swimming in high chlorine levels completely without foundation, and that the EPA's rule for chlorine bucket labels, of "no swimming till chlorine levels fall below 3 ppm", is simply floating in the air. But, it was not till this year, 2012, that we were able to put the last nail in that coffin.

It turns our that dermatologists have been using 50 - 100 ppm "bleach baths" (search Google for it! (https://www.google.com/search?q=bleach+bath)) to treat a variety of skin conditions and infections, in both adult and pediatric patients. This treatment is still an element of recommended dermatological practice. A 50 ppm chlorine level in a tub with NO stabilizer, is equivalent to a 150 ppm OR HIGHER chlorine level in a stabilized pool. In most home pools, CYA levels range from 20 - 100 ppm.

Two cautions however: bleach baths don't involve opening your eyes underwater. And, patients being treated with bleach baths don't wear swimsuits! People, generally are FAR more chlorine tolerant than swimwear, and human eyes are more senstive to chlorine, than the rest of your body.

So, while you can safely SWIM at 50 ppm even with CYA = 0 ppm, you wouldn't want to wear a swimsuit when you did, or open your eyes underwater. With CYA = 100 ppm, it's a different story. I'm currently operating a large commercial pool at CYA = 80 - 120 ppm, and FC = 15 - 30 ppm. There have been NO complaints or evidence of either irritation OR swimwear damage.



Thanks brotha...you're a Godsend!

We're jumping in tonight!