Convert indoor Baquacil pool to salt water chlorination?

[cchase009]

All,

I have a ~24000 gallon indoor pool on Baqaucil. I developed water mold and I am looking to switch to salt.

Good idea? Which salt generator works best?

My pool store is recommending an Intellichlor IC20 because I'm indoor and will not have the direct sun or outside element....is this correct? Just perusing the forum, everyone seems to oversize the salt generator.

What steps should I go through to do this properly? Is this a DIY job? Do I need to drain the entire pool?

I drained the pool halfway so far. Diverter won't suction properly to let me drain the entire pool through the bottom drain.

Regards, C.Chase

[PoolDoc]

You say you are switching from Baquacil to salt. You do realize that salt systems are just a METHOD of feeding chlorine into a pool?

If you continue with the switch, you'll need to go from Baquacil to manual chlorine and clean up your pool and filter. THEN (not before) you can switch to a SWCG.

Do NOT get the IC20! SWCG life is a function of cell 'on-time'. An IC-20 will last half as long as an IC-40, but an IC-40 does not cost 2x as much. Get a timer if you need to turn down the feed rate more than 80%.

[cchase009]

Thank you. The pool company did mention the manual conversion process and then the salt process. I just found a thread that discussed a 10 day process to convert. Is this accurate? I drained the pool half way and will add new water before the conversion starts.

Thanks again.

Regards,

C. Chase

[Watermom]

There is no set number of days it takes to do a baquagoop conversion. The more consistently you keep your chlorine levels high, the faster the conversion will go. There are lots of threads in the Baq. sub-section of the forum where people tell their conversion stories, some with pictures. It would probably be helpful to you go read some.

[cchase009]

Thank you. How much water shouldI drain from my pool to expedite the conversion? Seems all the horror stories did not include draining any of the water.


What is the PPM I should have my chlorine at on an indoor pool?

Thanks in advance.

C. Chase

[Watermom]

You don't have to drain. Just start hammering it with bleach.

I'm going to let Ben advise you on maintaining an indoor pool, but let's get to that after the conversion is done or when it is nearly done.

Did you read some of the Baq conversion threads? You ready to start?

[cchase009]

Ok Watermom - I'm on it. I had already drained close t 7K gallons and just got it added back. Major difference between the Spa and the pool - I emptied the Spa.

Ok, do I use regular off the shelf bleach or by something stronger from the pool store? - its cheap but strong

Most important - I know I have to ventilate the room when I add the chlorine, do I need to send my Wife and kid on a small excursion to avoid fumes or anything?

I will post my numbers in the morning once I test and keep the thread updated.

BTW, I decided to do this myself as I learned the price I received from the pool store did not include any labor to convert the pool, just installation of the SWCG and delivery of chemicals.

If I'm going to pay almost 2K, I want to be a spectator.

Regards,

C. Chase

==================================
Is there a delay for replies and posted threads? I replied to Watermom's thread but I do not see it posted.

Please advise.

[PoolDoc]

Yes, unless you are a subscriber, or a long term member, all replies are moderated. For what it's worth, subscriptions expire to a non-moderated status.

[cchase009]

Thank you. I saw the brief notification after I posted the confused message. Looking forward to hearing from you Ben as Watermom indicated you would have the best advice on indoor pools.

26K with connected Spa
Concrete and 21 yrs old
Ready to convert from Bacquacil

Hoping to hear from you on ventilation requirements when adding bleach. I have 2 small babies in the home.

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Most important - I know I have to ventilate the room when I add the chlorine, do I need to send my Wife and kid on a small excursion to avoid fumes or anything?

To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time I've encountered a conversion on an INDOOR pool. Many of the products that form when you chlorinate a mess are (a) volatile (can go into the air) and (b) noxious. Can you set up continuous ventilation with your pool -- windows open, fans running in windows, etc? If not, I'm unwilling to advise you to convert, until I do some checking.

Did you do the pool chart? If so, tell me and I'll look again. If not, please do so:

Pool Chart Entry Form (http://goo.gl/cNPUO)
Pool Chart Results (http://goo.gl/PXaLu)

If you've got a concrete pool, and dry ground, the best thing would be to:
1. Replace your filter media (sand, cartridge, possibly, DE grids)
2. Flush the pipes into the pool with fresh water.
3. Drain the pool 100%

If you can't do that, and can't provide continuous ventilation, I'm going to have to see if anyone knows (and will tell me!) what happens, in terms of volatile byproducts, to pools when you chlorinate PHMB.

[cchase009]

PoolDoc,

I have 4 sliding doors on one end of the room. The other side of the house are sliding doors and windows to the house. The pool store did not have an issue with pounding the pool with chlorine - I'm glad I asked. I can open the doors and rent a few large fans. I would also block the HVAC ductwork in the room.

I started to empty the pool but could not figure out a way to flush the pipes. I also did not want to spend over 1K in water. I should have listened to the one person that instructed me to do the items in your list for concrete pools.

I will wait to hear back on the off-gassing issue. Pool may be closed this summer.

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

I'm where I was, with off-gassing: I don't know.

However, if you can ventilate the room continuously, it should be fine. Alternatively, Chem_Geek reminded me that you can use sodium percarbonate, instead of chlorine. It's not as messy, but it will cost 2x as much.

Here are instructions (do NOT use the links! they go to Chinese sites now!):
http://piscines-apollo.com/docs/baquacil_to_chlorine_conversion.pdf

And, sources for percarbonate:
http://www.soapgoods.com/Sodium-Percarbonate-p-1001.html
http://www.chemistrystore.com/cart.cgi?group=100513&child=100581

I checked Amazon, but they do not currently sell any plain percarbonate . . . and you do NOT want a detergent!

[cchase009]

PoolDoc,

thanks for the info. From your post, should I assume sodium percarbonate will not have the off-gassing effect? I reviewed the procedures in the link - will there be anything to vacuum to waste? With the chlorine steps the instructions included vacuuming the bottom of the pool to waste. Will the sodium percarbonate clean the filter and the pipes?

Any side effects I should be aware of?

Thanks again.

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Chem_Geek thinks not; I don't know for myself, but I trust his judgement and knowledge on that.

[chem geek]

It's not so much that there won't be any outgassing, but that whatever is outgassed won't be chlorinated by-products so are less likely to be harmful. Sodium percarbonate has hydrogen peroxide and generally it produces water when oxidizing other chemicals.

[cchase009]

Thanks Chem geek. Not only am I concerned with the toxicity to humans, I'm wondering what if anything it will do to the structure. Room is primarily covered in Drywall.

[PoolDoc]

Chlorine is DEFINITELY more of a problem for indoor structures than Baquacil. And, if you don't have continuous fresh air ventilation, the damage, especially to wiring, can be severe.

I have extensive experience with indoor commercial pools . . . and have chosen to stay away from that topic here, because most owners find the information we provide complex enough . . . but managing indoor chlorinated pools is MUCH more complicated, with much less certain results.

Honestly, the more you describe your situation, the more inclined I am to recommend that you STAY on Baquacil, as long as no one but your family uses it. (Baquacil is NOT an adequate sanitizer in a commercial environment). Baquacil can be used successfully long term, if you do two things:

1. Replace 1/3 to 1/2 of your pool water every 6 months of use.
2. Replace 100% of your filter media (sand or cartridge) every 12 months of use.

It does NOT sound like you have an enclosure that was properly designed for a pool room. You are likely to have problems regardless, especially if the pool room walls are exposed to winter temps. You should inspect for corrosion and wiring damage REGARDLESS. But, if you use chlorine, the lack of a properly designed enclosure may well become critical.

Sorry . . .

[cchase009]

Thanks PoolDoc. I was under the assumption the SWCG woulld keep the chlorine @ a very low level - is this not so? Would 1 -3 ppm be too much for an indoor pool? The pool store recommended those levels.

If I stay on Bacquacil, how do I get rid of the current condition? Drain and replace? If so, how do I go about clearing the pipes?

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Low levels of chlorine don't necessarily affect the problem - you STILL have to add enough to react with the people goo. The only things that reduce that is to allow the pool to be used only by people with non-oily skin, who don't sweat and never pee in the pool or use skin lotion. (So, showering and peeing first, can make BIG difference.)

By the way, never, ever let a former competitive swimmer in your pool . . . unless you SEE them pee before they swim. They are ALL in the habit of peeing in the pool, a practice enforced by coaches who demand uninterrupted 2 hour practices by fully hydrated swimmers! (I'm speaking, as the father of two competitive swimmers, and the uncle of a third who has newly achieved national rank.)

To get rid of water mold, enough peroxide and algaecide will do it, but I can't tell you how much is enough. Here's what I'd recommend though:

1. Drain 100% of your pool (if the ground is dry enough so there's no risk of 'floating' the pool!)
2. Replace your sand.

=================================
Working on the chemical guide -- will return to this.
http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/BAQCIL/Docs/Start_up_49309.pdf

[cchase009]

Thank you.

[PoolDoc]

IMPORTANT:
If you are reading this, and are NOT the original poster, you need to know that this applies to an INDOOR CONCRETE pool. While this could be readily adapted to an outdoor pool, there are several cautions to be observed.
+ FIRST, only concrete pools in DRY ground can safely be drained. Other pools -- especially vinyl pools -- require special methods, tools, or precautions.
+ SECOND, we don't recommend PHMB water treatment. If it works for you, that's fine, but it's expensive, more complicated than advertised, and is NOT a full spectrum sanitizer, because it is ineffective against viruses..
+ THIRD, Baquacil CDX complicates things in ways we don't understand. It contains DHM, dimethyl hydantoin, a chemical first used in pools as the basis of bromine tablets. It has a history of causing problems in pools, beyond the problems PHMB (Baquacil) already has.

The approach below uses everything possible to create an inhospitable environment for water mold while avoiding chemicals that make things unpleasant for people. BUT it is NOT a magic bullet. Once you've had water mold, you must remain vigilant to make sure you don't get it again. Water mold / white mold is an out-of-control biofilm, and these are notoriously hard to eradicate. Doing so requires making sure the needed PHYSICAL cleaning is taking place, by brushing, vacuuming, and filter maintenance, as well as maintaining higher than normal chemical levels (60+ ppm of peroxide, PHMB, and borates), AND replacing the standard algaecide with polyquat (aka Baquacil Performance Algaecide).



Drain 100% of your pool (if the ground is dry enough so there's no risk of 'floating' the pool!)


Replace your sand.


Backflush your lines into the pool, by running water into your filter or pump. Brush, spray, clean, rinse everything you can and re-drain remnants. Pour 1:3 mix of 6% bleach + water into skimmer, pump, filter (after replacing sand!), pipes, and main drain. If you have a light, take it out, and clean behind light. Allow bleach to stand overnight. Re-rinse & redrain.


Order
+ a bottle of Softswim 4-Way Test Strips (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B006MHSBMO/poolbooks/) @ Amazon
+ Taylor K-2005 Complete Test Kit - High Range (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001DNXK78/poolbooks/) @ Amazon (not our normal K-2006)
+ bottle of Lamotte Insta Test Borate test strips (http://www.diywatertesting.com/products/lamotte-insta-test-borate-strips.html)(NOT @ Amazon)


Order or purchase
+ (4) quarts of polyquat algaecide ( = Baquacil Performance Algicide) [ 7 ppm per quart ]

Kem-Tek 60% polyquat (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0030BEI0Y/poolbooks) @ Amazon
Nava 60% polyquat (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004BFV4EQ/poolbooks) @ Amazon

+ (2) lbs of EDTA stain / scale control (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004WFHNB8/poolbooks/) ( = Baquacil Metal Control) @ Amazon

+ (12) gallons of 27% peroxide ( = Baquacil Oxidizer) [ 10 ppm per gallon ] @ Amazon Splashes (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002WKODHW/poolbooks) / Aqua-Silk (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005MI3P0M/poolbooks)

+ (1) lb sodium thiosulfate (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN//B0045Y1H3G/poolbooks/) ( = Baquacil Chlorine Neutralizer) @ Amazon

+ (25) boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (http://www.walmart.com/ip/20850525) ( = Bioguard Optimizer) [ 2.6 ppm borates per box ] @ Walmart

+ (8) gallons of muriatic acid (http://www.lowes.com/pd_206474-34228-CR.MA.P.01_) @ Lowes

+ (25) lbs of calcium chloride (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004BFX00C/poolbooks/) (unless you KNOW your fill water is 'hard') @ Amazon

+ (1) CuLator @ Amazon
The CuLator product is a special patented plastic material, contained in a bag that goes into the skimmer, that can slowly take metals OUT of your pool water. We think it works, and have some evidence that it does, but not proof yet. (Not likely to be available locally.)

1 ppm Culator (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003C5PNUW/poolbooks) @ Amazon
1.5 ppm Culator (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004Y6RK3Q/poolbooks) sold by Amazon, shipped from Periodic
4 ppm Culator (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B007AHDMTM/poolbooks) sold by Amazon, shipped from Periodic
Poolmaster 16242 Poolmaster Skimmer Basket Liner (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004XUIRQW/poolbooks) @ Amazon (to protect CuLator from being damaged by scum)

+ (10) gallons of 20% PHMB santizer ( = Baquacil or Softswim 'B') Splashes 4 gal (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002WKODHW//poolbooks/) / Aqua-Silk 1 gal (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005MI3OZI/poolbooks/) / Softswim 2 gal (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B006MHSAOS/poolbooks/) [ 8 ppm per gallon ]


Add 6 ppm polyquat (3/4 quart) once pool is 1/8 full


Add 1 lb of sodium thiosulfate at 1/4 full.


Use muriatic acid as needed to hold pH to near 7.0, while filling.


Add borax as needed to keep pH above 6.8 (1/2 box doses)


Add 2 gallons of 27% peroxide at 1/4 full, and every 1/4 after (8 gallons total - 80 ppm)


Add 1 pound EDTA @ 1/2 full.


Begin circulating pool as soon as you can start pump (Operate pump 24/7).


Add 8 gallons of PHMB (64 ppm) once pump is running.


Add 2 gallons of muriatic acid to the POOL.
Immediately add 3 boxes of borax to your skimmers (SLOWLY, pump running).


Wait 2 hours, then test pH - add 1 box of borax if pH is below 6.8; add 1/2 gallon of acid if pH is above 7.4.

Repeat # 12, 13, & 14 till 22 boxes of borax have been added.


Adjust pH to near 7.2.


Put skimmer sock and CuLator in skimmer.


Brush, vacuum pool. Wait 24 hours. Backwash.


Keep pool at ~60+ PHMB & peroxide for at least 2 weeks. Check every 2 - 3 days.


Dose with 1/2 quart of polyquat 2x per week.


After 1 week, if there is no sign of water mold, begin adjusting calcium level.

[PoolDoc]

Ok, done except for typos.

A couple of references:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?11784
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17276
http://www.troublefreepool.com/baquacil-conversion-underway-in-florida-t40559.html
http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/BAQCIL/Docs/Start_up_49309.pdf
http://www.ultramodern.com/Bulletins/BUL-105.pdf

[PoolDoc]

cchase, if you end up following this, I'd be interested in total cost. It looked like it was gonna be very expensive. Maybe not as expensive as a Baquacil to chlorine conversion, followed by installation of a new SWCG system. But still, really expensive.

And, a caution. Do NOT think you can go at this a little at at time. With algae, and other messes, you have to kill it outright, or you end up wasting all your work and money. The approach I described uses everything I can, within the PHMB method: fresh uncontaminated water + new filter media + 60 ppm of PHMB, peroxide, & borates, plus 4 - 6 ppm of polyquat, + metal control. The ONLY thing left is to use the standard PHMB algaecide, which might help if you add enough to make the water soapy. But, it's bitter, foamy, and unpleasant to swim in.

The other white mold / water mold cleanup products try to add a halogen (bromine) without doing a full conversion. It's a mess.

Oh, one more thing. The low initial pH, + EDTA should solubilize any metals. Using the CuLator should strip them from the water. Since metals catalyze PHMB breakdown, using the CuLator to maintain very low metal levels should make BOTH your peroxide and your PHMB last longer. You can continue to use the bag so long as it's not gummed up or discolored.

Here's what the plastic beads look like, when they have collected metal from the water:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1oW5OCfUnKY/T_NydgWibZI/AAAAAAAADeo/orQAe7qxays/s800/culator%2520metals%2520display.jpg

[cchase009]

All,

thanks for the recommendations. I read the thread ACIAM posted and it gave me an idea I'd like to run by you all.

My pool has a spa connected to it. I was able to drain and refill the spa and my spa has 4 return lines/jets. I have not run the pump since adding the water nor have I added any chemicals - the water in the spa is super clear while the water in the pool is not. I added 6500 gallons of water to the pool and spa with the majority going into the pool.

What I add the chlorine or sodium percarbonate to the spa only and run the pump and the blower for the jets? Could I knock out the goo in the filter and the plumbing for the spa with this method? If yes, then I only need to worry about the to returns and main drain for the pool as far as goo goes.

I am thinking the right way?

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

If you mean, can you use the isolated spa piping to clean out the water mold in the filter and spa piping, prior to draining your main pool, then the answer is maybe. It depends on your piping and valves. If you want to try that, I'd

1. Drain the pool & spa.
2. Replace the sand.
3. Refill the spa, and superchlorinate.
4. Drain the spa, refill pool and spa and start the Baquacil based cleanup.

[cchase009]

Ok, I need to start at step 2 as I already drained and refilled the spa.

I will replace the sand and superchlorinate. I believe this is just household bleach continuously. When will I know its done?

Regarding replacing the sand, I'm told its pretty tricky. Any tips on doing this right?

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

You need a BIG water-resistant shop vac, a parts manual for your filter, fresh sand, and a place to put the old sand.

How tricky it is, depends on your filter. It's a lot easier on side mount filters, than those with the valve on top of the filter. Regardless, make sure you know what all the parts in the filter are, BEFORE you start. Also be careful about the laterals -- they are pretty fragile, and get worse as time goes on. It would be a good idea to have a couple waiting before you start.

But . . . actually, I thought you'd hire it done.

[cchase009]

Ok Pool Forum,

I went all in today. I bought 10 gallons of bleach and fully intended to do the spa only until I rolled back my pool solar cover....WHOA, the crap was everywhere. dumped 6 gallons into the pool and it is now green. I know, I know, I was afraid of the off-gassing but I sent my family out and all my inside doors are very snug. The pool flat out disgusted me.

Ok. I have the instructions from link on the Bacqua forum that references Pool Breeze. I cannot locate the version that mentions the generic supplies. Is that available? I am going to get 10 - 20 more bottles as my returns are in the shallow end and I think its going to take a while to turn the water over.

Any other tips?

Regards,

C. Chase

[cchase009]

Hello out there. I drained the pool and power-washed with a bleach mix. I also changed the bulbs and the bacquaGOOP was everywhere. I spent the majority of Saturday power washing as I noticed little pink bits sticking to the wall. Pool will be full by Thursday...running my well for 4-5 hours at a time with success. I alos learned my pool has 18K gallons vs. the 25K everyone told me before. So the quest ion is, do I truly have to change the sand or can I chemically treat it? I cannot get the threaded multi-port off for the life of me....its supposed to be hand tight. If I absolutely have to change it I will hire it out. Please advise.

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

You can try treating it. But I don't think it works that well. You may need a strap wrench to remove the filter valve.

[cchase009]

Thanks PoolDoc. I just broke a strap wrench. I am going to try the Rigid strap wrench. Thanks again.

[PoolDoc]

You have a Ridgid strap wrench? Are you a plumber? (I am, or was.)

[BigDave]

Be careful with that axe (eugene), you could crush your multiport.

[cchase009]

Thats exactly why I tried the rubber version of the strap wrench. I will be returning and upgrading to the Rigid. The strap is a lot longer so I should be able to put a towel or something to protect the multiport.

Regards,

C. Chase

[cchase009]

All, I finally got the threaded multiport off and I am in the process of vacuuming and replacing the sand.

My pool has been full for 10 days now..suprisingly blue. Do I need to add anything to the water while I handle the filter and plumbing for the filter?

I don't want to get algae or any other "stuff" going because I have no chemical in the water.

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Do I need to add anything to the water while I handle the filter and plumbing for the filter?

I deleted Dave's post, suggesting bleach, because I think you are still planning to clean up the water mold, and then stick with Baquacil to avoid airborne corrosion, since your pool is indoors.

If that's still the case, use polyquat (http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/polyquat.html), not bleach. For your 24K gallon pool, I'd recommend 1 quart to start, and then 1 cup every 3 days. Dilute it in multiple gallons of water, and then pour it all around your pool. (Use the link for more info about polyquat!)

Also, with the pump off for several days, and the polyquat in the water, you may settle out some goop. Plan to vacuum carefully, when you first start up, if there is debris, dust or film on the bottom. You may want to re-align your return eyeballs so they don't stir it up, before you can vacuum it up!

[cchase009]

PoolDoc,

thanks for the info and I did see Dave's post. I am going to try Chlorine and if it is too strong with airborne smells I will try Salt. I have 2 gallons of bleach just sitting there so I will put some in tonight when I get home.

Thanks all for the quick responses.

Regards,

C. Chase

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
BTW, draining and cleaning the pool gave me the opportunity/time to measure the pool and I have a 19000 Gallon pool. Would being off by 5 - 6K gallons matter when testing @ the pool store?

EDIT by moderator: 2 posts waiting in the queue were merged together.

[Watermom]

Chase --- PoolDoc is recommending that you stick with Baquacil since it is an indoor pool. If he says he doesn't think you should add bleach, then he is saying you shouldn't add chlorine since bleach is chlorine.

I'd hold off adding anything until Ben gets back to your thread and can advise further.

[PoolDoc]

I am going to try Chlorine and if it is too strong with airborne smells I will try Salt.

Not only is bleach chlorine, but so is salt. It's a common misconception that salt water systems are not chlorine systems. That's precisely why I chose the acronym here "SWCG" -- Salt Water Chlorine Generator -- instead of using "SWG" used elsewhere. SWCG's generate chlorine FROM salt; they don't generate salt!

If you want to try chlorine, that's your choice, of course. But the most serious problem is not the 'smell', but rather the corrosion. You'll need to inspect the wiring near the pool REGULARLY -- if you see green streaks on the copper, you have a PROBLEM! If you let it get to the point shown in this picture, you'll need to replace all the fixtures and junctions.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7mmeGTv761E/T8--dSXd8HI/AAAAAAAADIw/kzB0jL9Oujo/s400/chlorine%2520wire.jpg

[cchase009]

Thanks WaterMom and PoolDoc. I cleaned my pool with a mix of bleach and water and power washed it. Will that be an issue? I also flushed the line and alot of GOOP came out.

As for Bacquacil, is it possible to use and not have the GOOP? What about the advise to keep the chlorine @ 1-3PPM which would not emit any smell at all? Will corrosion still be an issue? I think I mentioned I have Duct work running through the room as well.

If you all strongly recommend BacQua I will stay on it, but that GOOP was everywhere. I would be interested in tips for keeping the water mold away

[cchase009]

Pool Forum,

thank you so much for all the advice to date. I am off the goop, replaced my multiport with the clamp version and now I'm ready to shock the pool. I am going chlorine as I have not been able to identify a singe person that has had a trouble-free pool longterm on Bacquacil. I learned a hard lessons on the way - Wear a long sleeve shirt when changing the sand - I had the "itches" for 5 days.

I'm off to learn mor about the BBB method. I want to keep my pool @ 1 - 2 ppm chlorine.

BTW, I tried a drop tesk kit and I cannot tell the difference between all the colors. The pool store said to add an additional drop of the red stuff "fenal-something" and that would make the colors more distinct. Is this so?

Regards,

C. Chase

[BigDave]

If you're choosing chlorine because I suggested you add some to your fresh water, PLEASE DON'T. If it's your choice, then it's your pool but don't go that way because of my post. I have no knowlege of indoor pool care and my post was only a reaction to your fresh fill with nothing in it to prevent algae.

Pool Doc does know about these things and I think you should consider his advice.

Did you see the picture of the service panel Pool Doc posted? Is this the same building where you and your family sleep? I do know something about house wiring and can promise you that corrosion in electrical connections will cause fires. It's not the smell you should consider but the potential for disaster. If you don't have a clear and certain plan for the elimination of chlorine oxidisation byproduct gasses and a plan for regular inspection and remediation of electrical fixtures, please don't chlorinate your indoor pool.

[PoolDoc]

BTW, I tried a drop tesk kit and I cannot tell the difference between all the colors. The pool store said to add an additional drop of the red stuff "fenal-something" and that would make the colors more distinct.

Adding another drop -- if you can't read the kit otherwise -- is better than nothing, but not good. The pH colors in the K2006 are more intense than in the K1000 or HTH 6-way. Some cheap OTO kits have very indistinct (diluted) color matches. But, if you are actually color blind, you may need a pH meter. Check here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?15322

[cchase009]

All,

the pool finally opened this weekend. I tested the water and it was perfect. The family loved it and I just want to give a BIG thanks to the forum.

Regarding the corrosiveness of chlorine on the pool room - all my wiring is insulated and and in tubes and the utility room is tucked in the corner. I keep the humidity @ 55% and the fan is running at all times. Today the water actually got warmer than the room which will raise humidity but once we swam I pulled the cover over and the hunidity went right back down. As for the chlorine smell - nothing. The room just smells FRESH. FC @ 2.3 ppm, PH @ 7.5 and I'm working on getting the calcium up.

Thanks again all.

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

you're welcome!