A few questions for a new Intex 16 X 48 pool

[NJPaul]

I just setup my pool and filled it yesterday. I had a few questions before I get to far along.

1. How long should I run the filter? I believe my pool is @ 5000 gallons and the filter says it cycles @ 2000 gallons an hour.

2. Chemicals? I got some stuff before reading here and now I think I need something else. I put in 1/2 a pouch of HTH Super shock and swim about 2 hours ago (directions said full pouch for 10,000 gallons of water so I figured half would be good.). I got HTH 6 way test strips (I know I should get the test kit but this is what I got for now) Here's the reading I got 2 1/2 hours after adding the shock:
FC - 5
PH - 7.8
TA ppm - 80
TH ppm - 200
CYA ppm - 30-50

Any beginner advice would be great. I'd like to be swimming this weekend if possible.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Paul

[Watermom]

Those numbers don't look too bad, but since they are from 'guess strips' then we don't really know if they are accurate. You really need to get something else to use. The HTH 6-Way kit will suffice for now or at the very least, pick up an OTO/Phenol Red (yellow and red drops) kit.

What are the ingredients of the Super Shock? I'm assuming it is dichlor since you now also have a CYA reading, but the problem is that some packs of dichlor have other unwanted ingredients in them as well.

You can swim as long as you keep some chlorine in the pool and keep your pH between 7.2-7.8.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[NJPaul]

Thanks I'll work on getting the other test kit this week. Here's the shock that I used: http://www.poolsupplies.com/product/chemicals/treatment/shock/hth-super-shock-n-swim-swimming-pool-shock-1-lbs

Any idea on how long I should run the filter? I'm guessing @ 4-6 hours a day probably in the evening? Also can I run it with the cover on? Thanks again for the quick reply. I'll post my new readings with the other test kit when I get it.

[AnnaK]

The shock product you used is calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo) which adds calcium hardness (CH or TH) to your water. Vinyl pools don't really need that and, in fact, too high a level can be detrimental. Have you added any other products to the water? I'm curious as to how the CYA (stabilizer) produced a reading on the test strip.

Six hours on the pump and filter sounds reasonable. I run mine on a timer during the night when electricity is cheaper. Yes, you can run it with the cover on as long as the cover doesn't obstruct intake and return.

Get some regular 6% household bleach and add 1 qt each evening; this will add about 3 ppm chlorine to your water. We cannot stress the importance of a drop based FSD-DPD test kit strongly enough. It's the only way you can know with some certainty what your water chemistry is.

Happy swimming!

[BigDave]

If you haven't put anything but the Super Shock and Swim in the pool, then you have no stabilizer (see why we don't trust strips). With a pool the size of yours, you might consider liquid stabilizer (also called conditioner, Cyanuric Acid). You'll probably need 1/2 a gallon to 3 quarts. It's more expensive than granular stabilizer but you won't need much.

I'd plan to run the filter all the time there's no one in your pool. The Intex cartridges filters I had when I had my 15' donut just don't seem to deliver water clarity.
I would not run the filter when someone is in the pool. I just don't trust the insulation on these pumps and there is no other means of electrical protection.

You can see if you can get the HTH 6-way kit Watermom mentioned here(Check Availability (http://www.walmart.com/ip/HTH-6-Way-Test-Kit/17043668)). "Guess Strips" are just not reliable enough.

It's really not hard once you get the hang of it; you're going to love your pool.

[NJPaul]

I guess i'll give that a try. I only added that half pouch of shock nothing else. I'll look for the test kit today and see if it gives me different readings.

[Watermom]

If you don't find liquid CYA or just prefer the cheaper granular (which is what most of us use), then a 2 lb. container of stabilizer would be perfect. That amount would add about 50ppm of CYA to your pool which is ideal for most pools. It may be labeled as stabilizer or conditioner, but check the ingredient labels and make sure it is just cyanuric or isocyanuric acid and not a bunch of other stuff blended in. Let us know what you buy and we'll help with how to add it. (NOT broadcast across the pool like the label tells you to do!)

[NJPaul]

Well I just got home and rechecked with the strips (didn't have a chance to get the drop tester probably tomorrow) the only thing that seemed to change was the chlorine was down Since I had only used half the bag I put the rest in and am running the filter for now. When I go up to get the test kit I'll look for the bleach and stabilizer. So I can use bleach instead of chlorine? Can I do this all the time? I'm guessing the stabilizer helps keep the Chlorine level from dropping so quickly? Sorry for all the questions just trying to understand it along with figuring out how to maintain it. Thanks again for all the responses.

[AnnaK]

Bleach IS chlorine.
Yes, you can use bleach all the time. Regular, unscented, plain old bleach at 6%.
Yes, the stabilizer (CYA, cyanuric acid) helps keep the chlorine level from dropping.

[BigDave]

Yep, bleach is chlorine, Sodium Hypochlorite solution same thing as pool store liquid chlorine but at a different concentration. You can use it all the time, most of us do.

Right, The stabilizer does keep the chlorine from being quickly consumed by the sun.

How much of the cal-hypo (Calcium Hypochlorite - Super Shock and Swim) do you have left? You can use it to chlorinate for a while but it adds calcium to the pool and can cause cloudiness if used excessively.

[NJPaul]

Thanks for the clarification on the bleach thing just always been told bleach is bad don't let it touch your skin! Then using it in your pool seems kind of strange. I got the 6 way test kit today and here's the results:

Chlorine - 5
PH - 7.5
Alk - 120
Hard - nil
CYA - >30

The hardness and CYA tests didn't seem like they worked or I don't have any in my pool because the kit says when adding the 5 hardness drops the water should turn red if present and it turns a very light yellow color so I'm guessing thats a good thing? The CYA test your supposed to mix 7 ml of pool water and 7 ml of the CYA acid reagent for 30 seconds then transfer to a tube with a black dot on the bottom. It says the solution is supposed to get cloudy, but mine stayed clear so I could see the dot even after I filled the tube to the top. I got a 6 pack of the shock and swim and from the readings it looks like it's doing the trick. Should I dilute it in a bucket of water before I add it? I'm seeing some sandy looking stuff on the bottom of the pool and I'm not sure if it's extra added stuff in the shock collecting on the bottom (not really a lot just that I saw it and thought I'd mention it) We did have a full day of rain so maybe it's just pollen from the trees. Another question the cover is a real PIA to get off without dumping everything on top into the pool any tricks to doing this? Thanks again for all the help. I couldn't find the stabilizer at Walmart, but I'm guessing thats something to use if my chlorine keeps jumping down and up right? I'm going to run the filter for a minimum of 6 hours everyday probably more once we start swimming in it (maybe this weekend?)

[Watermom]

If your CYA sample didn't turn cloudy, then you have little or no CYA in the water. If you have only used cal-hypo, then you haven't added any CYA yet. You'll need some, about 40-50 ppm. Not only if your chlorine "keeps jumping up and down." All outdoor pools have to have some or you won't be able to keep chlorine in the pool especially on hot sunny days. You can either buy some and add it directly or use a stabilized form of chlorine for awhile that will add CYA and chlorine at the same time. The choice is yours. Both ways are just fine. If you decide to add it separately, it may be labeled as conditioner or stabilizer. Check the label; the ingredients should say cyanuric or isocyanuric acid. You'll need 2 lbs. You can put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return jet and give it a squeeze once in awhile to help it dissolve faster. Remove the sock from in front of the jet when you add other chemicals through the skimmer, however.

If you decide to use a stabilized form of chlorine instead, you can either buy dichlor shock powder or trichlor pucks. I'd suggest the dichlor, though, as it will get the CYA in there faster. If you have access to a Sam's Club, you can buy their 24lb pack of 1# bags of 100% dichlor shock. Each bag will add about 7 ppm of chlorine, and about 6 ppm of stabilizer, per 10K gallons of water. (You won't need all the bags this year, but you can save it til next year.) Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:
Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0030BEHZA/poolbooks)We do NOT recommend buying dichlor locally, otherwise, at least until you are an EXPERT reader of chemical labels. The chlorinating pool chemicals sold at Walmart, Kmart, Costco, and most other local stores are diluted blends, sometimes with copper and other products with bad side-effects.

(After your CYA gets to around 50, you'll want to quit using dichlor and switch to bleach so your CYA doesn't get too high.)

Don't worry about the hardness test for now. But, if you decide to continue using the cal-hypo instead of using dichlor, you'll want to monitor it to make sure it doesn't get too high which can cause cloudy water problems.

[NJPaul]

So the only question i have is can i swim in it safely before i get the cya in? The kid is all over me about it. Thanks again for all the help.

[PoolDoc]

If the pH is between 7 & 8, and the chlorine is between 1 - 5, they can swim.

Chlorine levels can go up, as the CYA level goes up. See the Best Guess link in my signature.

[NJPaul]

Thats why I was worried about using the Kem - Tek Dichlor Watermom suggested because I don't see my chlorine level going down it seem sto be holding steady. Granted the pool hasn't been used or even uncovered for a full day so we'll see after this weekend's use (hopefully depending on weather) and see what my levels are at. I was able to get the vacuum that intex gives you working with my hose and it worked surprisingly well! I just need a longer garden hose or an extension. Thanks again for all the help and advice I hope to some day be able to help others out like you've all helped me.

[Watermom]

Hope you enjoy swimming. I just spent the last hour in my pool with my youngest son. That's what its all about!

[NJPaul]

If your CYA sample didn't turn cloudy, then you have little or no CYA in the water. If you have only used cal-hypo, then you haven't added any CYA yet. You'll need some, about 40-50 ppm. Not only if your chlorine "keeps jumping up and down." All outdoor pools have to have some or you won't be able to keep chlorine in the pool especially on hot sunny days. You can either buy some and add it directly or use a stabilized form of chlorine for awhile that will add CYA and chlorine at the same time. The choice is yours. Both ways are just fine. If you decide to add it separately, it may be labeled as conditioner or stabilizer. Check the label; the ingredients should say cyanuric or isocyanuric acid. You'll need 2 lbs. You can put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return jet and give it a squeeze once in awhile to help it dissolve faster. Remove the sock from in front of the jet when you add other chemicals through the skimmer, however.

If you decide to use a stabilized form of chlorine instead, you can either buy dichlor shock powder or trichlor pucks. I'd suggest the dichlor, though, as it will get the CYA in there faster. If you have access to a Sam's Club, you can buy their 24lb pack of 1# bags of 100% dichlor shock. Each bag will add about 7 ppm of chlorine, and about 6 ppm of stabilizer, per 10K gallons of water. (You won't need all the bags this year, but you can save it til next year.) Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:
Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0030BEHZA/poolbooks)We do NOT recommend buying dichlor locally, otherwise, at least until you are an EXPERT reader of chemical labels. The chlorinating pool chemicals sold at Walmart, Kmart, Costco, and most other local stores are diluted blends, sometimes with copper and other products with bad side-effects.

(After your CYA gets to around 50, you'll want to quit using dichlor and switch to bleach so your CYA doesn't get too high.)

Don't worry about the hardness test for now. But, if you decide to continue using the cal-hypo instead of using dichlor, you'll want to monitor it to make sure it doesn't get too high which can cause cloudy water problems.

So I had no luck finding conditioner or stabilizer at any stores around me (walmart, lowes, etc.) So I'm going to go with the kem-tek tablets and the floating dispenser from Amazon.

[Watermom]

Keep an eye on your CYA level. When it gets to about 50, you'll want to discontinue any form of stabilized chlorine and just go to using bleach at that point.

[NJPaul]

How soon after I use bleach can I swim in the pool? Should I let it go overnight or just a couple of hours?

[AnnaK]

When you add just the daily maintenance dose of bleach you can swim within 15 minutes or fewer.

The big box stores don't normally sell 100% cyanuric acid (stabilizer). You can get that at the pool store, usually comes in a 4 pound bucket.

[NJPaul]

Another question about the Kem-tek 3" tablets I got. How long should it take for them to dissolve? I've had them in the floating container for about 2 days and they still look brand new. It's been pretty hot here lately and I'm going to need to add more chlorine today in the form of bleach because the tablets aren't getting the level up fast enough. Just wondering how long they should last?

[Watermom]

I don't know, I never use them. Maybe put one in the skimmer basket. I think it would dissolve faster with a steady stream of water rushing over it. But, do NOT leave your pump off for more than 8 hours with a trichlor puck in there due to the acidity of it.

[PoolDoc]

Most floaters have an adjustable screen. To increase the rate at which they dissolve, make sure the screen is open ALL the way, and add more tabs, so the floater sits lower in the water.

[NJPaul]

Hey just wanted to give a big THANK YOU to all who helped me to understand how to treat and take care of my pool. It would have been a nightmare without all your advice. I now have the chlorine holding steady got some stabilizer in from the tablets and the water is clear and clean.

I'm going to have a great Summer swimming with my family and part of that belongs to you guys/gals. Thanks again.

[aylad]

Thank you for the update--now enjoy the pool!! :cool:

Janet