Finally got some K2006C numbers.. please look

[mastamoon]

Here are my numbers. Current state of the pool is clear but slightly cloudy.

FC: 4
CC: .5
CYA: less than 30 (couldnt get the dot to disappear, water was only slightly cloudy)
PH: 7.0
Alk: 50
Cal: 140

CSI.. i think is about -1.0.. but dont know if I did that right.

Looks like a few numbers have to go up.. I have bleach, baking soda and borax. Also have some ph Increase and ph Decrease from the pool store from last year. Anything else I will need, please specify.

Thanks!

[Watermom]

Go ahead and shock your pool up to about 10 or so. In your pool, each quart of 6% bleach will add just a little over 1ppm. You can use that as a reference to help you figure out how much bleach to add.

Bump your pH up a little with some Borax. Start with half a box added slowly to the skimmer while the pump is running. After a couple of hours, retest and redose. I'd suggest doing the pH adjustments before you shock your pool as high chlorine levels make it hard to get an accurate pH reading.

Don't worry about the alk for now.

Run your pump 24/7 while you are trying to clear it and backwash whenever the pressure rises 8-10psi over clean filter pressure. Your pump is awful big for this pool. That makes it harder to clear the water as it forces stuff through the sand bed and back into the pool instead of trapping it in the filter media.

[mastamoon]

Thanks for the info. I have the Borax but found I ran out of bleach so I took what the wife had left in the laundry room (regular clorox, about .5 gallons) and put that in there till I can get out to the store tomorrow.

Re the pump... apparently that 1.5HP (SPL) is actually about a 3/4hp in actual hp ratings. That's what I got from some people on this forum previously.

[PBLsQuad450]

Where in central Jersey? I'm in Middletown.

[Watermom]

You guys may be near CarlD, one of the other moderators. He is in North central NJ.

[mastamoon]

Im in Brick, Northern Ocean County.

Watermom, wouldnt a gallon of 6% raise my pool like 4.8ppm? Or am I missing something?

[aylad]

Yes, a gallon will raise it 4.8, but in Watermom's post, she stated that a quart would raise it by a little over 1 ppm...

[mastamoon]

Lol, whoops.. amazing what your eyes see and what your brains register sometimes.

Just dumped 2 gallons of bleach in... 6% sodium hypochlorate i believe it is. Target brand bleach @ 2.99 a gallon. Such a money pit.

[PBLsQuad450]

Mastamoon, I was in Brick yesterday! The pool feels like a big money pit right now, but once you get command it is really A LOT cheaper than people think. As long as you stay out of the pool store. You can beat that price too. I have been getting 98oz. Bottles (the "regular" size bleach bottle) for .99 cents each at Aldi. I was not much over a hundred bucks total last year and I am a 33,000 gallon pool. Granted, I will spend more this year, but some leftover chemicals will make next year like last year. I think running a big 'ol IG pool for the same cost as a tank of gas in a Chevy Suburban is pretty darn reasonable! Good luck!

[mastamoon]

Nice.

Im in about 60 bucks on bleach alone this year since opening the pool in early May. My father in law has a pool similar to mine, lives close to me, and has 0 problems keeping his pool clear with out more than a bottle of shock every week or 2 and some hockey puck tablets in a floater. Mine seems to be a constant battle. Really think I need a better pump/filter combo.. this package that came with the pool, bought from Branchbrook cant be anywhere near "top of the line".


Mastamoon, I was in Brick yesterday! The pool feels like a big money pit right now, but once you get command it is really A LOT cheaper than people think. As long as you stay out of the pool store. You can beat that price too. I have been getting 98oz. Bottles (the "regular" size bleach bottle) for .99 cents each at Aldi. I was not much over a hundred bucks total last year and I am a 33,000 gallon pool. Granted, I will spend more this year, but some leftover chemicals will make next year like last year. I think running a big 'ol IG pool for the same cost as a tank of gas in a Chevy Suburban is pretty darn reasonable! Good luck!

[mastamoon]

Added those 2 gallons of bleach at 12pm, at 7:50pm the FC was 5.5.

Did I wait long enough for the 2 gallons of bleach to mix fully? Should I add more before calling it a day?

==============================

Added 2 more bottles at 8:30pm. See how she looks in the morning.

[PoolDoc]

With your low stabilizer, you will lose chlorine very rapidly on sunny days. If your Memorial Day was like ours, solar loss was at a maximum today!

If you have brushed your entire pool, and have no more green anywhere, you can drop your chlorine levels back to the 1 - 3 ppm range. I'd recommend adding a single 96oz jug in the evening, for max effect, and then maybe 1/3 of a jug before swimming.

However, you need to get some stabilizer in there. How do you want to do that? If you have access to a Sams Club, a very easy way is to buy their 24lb pack of PoolBrand dichlor shock -- on your pool, the whole package equals 160 ppm chlorine, and about 140 ppm stabilizer. But, the sealed bags will keep till next year. A good dose for your pool would be 1/3 - 1/2 bag in the evening. Each bag will add about 13 ppm chlorine and about 12 ppm stabilizer. Sams is selling those packs for a little more than $2/lb, at least in my area.

If you can't do that, and need to get it from Amazon, here's the link:

Kem-Tek Stabilizer 4lbs (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000LNY2AU/poolbooks)
If you get granular stabilizer, put it in an old sock, and hang it in front of the pool return.

[mastamoon]

I woke up to a clearer pool, back to a light blue but still not clear.

Going to test FC this morning and depending on where that is, add some more bleach.

Whats weird is this turn to green happened while the chlorine level was a steady 3-4ppm for a week or more.

========================================

Tested this morning around 8:15am and had about 10ppm chlorine. Water is clearer, but still cloudy. Figuring today is going to be another hot and sunny one, I added a gallon of 6%.

I have no Sams Club, but have a Costco, and other various stores (walmart, kmart, target, aldi, etc..).

One question.. I believe I read that when doing the chlorine test with the k2006, you can use just one dipper of that crystal stuff correct? As long as it turns the water pink? Hope so :D Otherwise double my readings (minus the first reading where I followed the directions exactly!).

[PoolDoc]

At least around here, Costco, Walmart, Kmart are ALL selling goop. Haven't check Aldis and Target.

With regard to DPD testing -- if you've got pink, you don't need more. It's just a dye.

[mastamoon]

So I need that Kem-Tek Stabilizer from Amazon or head down to the pool store and look for some stabilizer without breaking the bank.. If I go to the pool store, im looking for "100% Cyanuric Acid". What CYA level is 'ideal'? 50-60ish? According to bleach calc, if my current is less than 20, probably close to 10 since there is some in there, as the test was slightly cloudy.. I would need 3lbs and 15oz to get to 40-50 est. Is there any reason not to use liquid stabilizer (minus cost)?


With your low stabilizer, you will lose chlorine very rapidly on sunny days. If your Memorial Day was like ours, solar loss was at a maximum today!

If you have brushed your entire pool, and have no more green anywhere, you can drop your chlorine levels back to the 1 - 3 ppm range. I'd recommend adding a single 96oz jug in the evening, for max effect, and then maybe 1/3 of a jug before swimming.

However, you need to get some stabilizer in there. How do you want to do that? If you have access to a Sams Club, a very easy way is to buy their 24lb pack of PoolBrand dichlor shock -- on your pool, the whole package equals 160 ppm chlorine, and about 140 ppm stabilizer. But, the sealed bags will keep till next year. A good dose for your pool would be 1/3 - 1/2 bag in the evening. Each bag will add about 13 ppm chlorine and about 12 ppm stabilizer. Sams is selling those packs for a little more than $2/lb, at least in my area.

If you can't do that, and need to get it from Amazon, here's the link:

Kem-Tek Stabilizer 4lbs (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000LNY2AU/poolbooks)
If you get granular stabilizer, put it in an old sock, and hang it in front of the pool return.

[PoolDoc]

Liquid stabilizer is fine, except for the cost.

50 - 60 ppm CYA is fine for general operations. Higher is good if you are going to use unstabilized chlorine exclusively or with SWCGs. Lower is good if you ARE going to use stabilized chlorine.

[mastamoon]

Tested pool at 7:20pm, FC was at 8ppm.. Water was much nicer looking but still cloudy so dumped another gallon in. Have a big line of storms about to roll through so had to dump it in at dusk.. see what we got tomorrow.

Again I would like to know how I got this algae bloom with a low CYA and atleast 4ppm FC. I think my red/yellow test kit was lying to me.

[PoolDoc]

I think my red/yellow test kit was lying to me.

They don't. OTO is not the most accurate test, but it is the most goof-proof. It said you had chlorine: you had chlorine.

I can't remember if your a guy or a gal . . . but I learned the hard way (working with 100's of lifeguards over the years) that some guys, who aren't color-blind, are color-dumb and have to be trained to pay attention to colors. I hired a guy like that -- did color blindness tests with him, which he passed fine. But he was reporting bogus test results on customer pools because he just had never bothered to pay attention to color differences. Took 6 weeks of hounding him, to get him to make the effort to make the distinction. I ran into the problem multiple times over the years. I actually never had a guard who was physically too color blind to read the kits, but we found a number who couldn't be trusted to pay attention to small color increments.

Dunno if that's the issue, or not. But there are other potential problems. If you have moderate chlorine, very low CYA, and very high pH, your chlorine will be ineffective.

[mastamoon]

I'm a guy.

The Ph test on the was tricky..as my kits color range was orange to purple but most of my readings ended up being red. When I got the Taylor test kit is was peach... So one would make me believe my pool had low Ph (Roy g Biv) while the k2006 said I was low but not as low as the basic kit.

The oto chlorine test was hard to mess up. Shades of yellow are easy to pick out. Mine always tested at at least 4 or higher. 4 was the highest it went so it could have been more.. but can't see how it could have been less.


They don't. OTO is not the most accurate test, but it is the most goof-proof. It said you had chlorine: you had chlorine.

I can't remember if your a guy or a gal . . . but I learned the hard way (working with 100's of lifeguards over the years) that some guys, who aren't color-blind, are color-dumb and have to be trained to pay attention to colors. I hired a guy like that -- did color blindness tests with him, which he passed fine. But he was reporting bogus test results on customer pools because he just had never bothered to pay attention to color differences. Took 6 weeks of hounding him, to get him to make the effort to make the distinction. I ran into the problem multiple times over the years. I actually never had a guard who was physically too color blind to read the kits, but we found a number who couldn't be trusted to pay attention to small color increments.

Dunno if that's the issue, or not. But there are other potential problems. If you have moderate chlorine, very low CYA, and very high pH, your chlorine will be ineffective.

[PoolDoc]

It happened; dunno why, except that low chlorine . . . or ineffective chlorine . . . was probably involved

Unless there's some other explanation I don't know about. But, if there is / was, by now the data that would explain it is down the drain, or in the backwash, or hauled away by your garbage guy.

. . . moving on . . .

[mastamoon]

No conspiracy here. Using the same Target brand bleach since opening the pool. Maybe its these "slo-poke" hockey pucks or the low pH? I have this proline chlorinator with 2 3" pucks in it.. is there anything better I could use the feeder for?

Good news I suppose. Last night I was at 8, added a gallon of bleach should have put me at around 12.5.. woke up this morning and pool is still at 12.5.. pool is still not clear but filter has been running non stop so im guessing its just dirt/dead stuff floating around in there. Ill let it settle today and see what it looks like when I get home from work.

Also, i did the CC test after the FC test and 5 drops didnt turn the water any color whatsoever.




It happened; dunno why, except that low chlorine . . . or ineffective chlorine . . . was probably involved

Unless there's some other explanation I don't know about. But, if there is / was, by now the data that would explain it is down the drain, or in the backwash, or hauled away by your garbage guy.

. . . moving on . . .

[Watermom]

Also, i did the CC test after the FC test and 5 drops didnt turn the water any color whatsoever.
That's a good thing! It means your CC reading is 0 which is what you want it to be!

[mastamoon]

After the filter being off for the day, pool still slightly cloudy. Fc was 8, Ph was 7.2 so I added 2.5lbs. of borax.. waited an hour then added a gallon of bleach. See what I I have in the morning.

[mastamoon]

Pool water looks much better this morning.

pH - 7.6 FC - 12

Is the pH really 7.6 with that chlorine level? The pool calculator says I should have added 3lbs 6oz to go from 7.2 to 7.6 so seeing that jump in pH using only 2.5lbs and reading about false ph level readings possible with high chlorine makes me wonder.

Thanks all! Almost there.. stopping at a pool store today to see if they have what I need conditioner wise without breaking the bank.

[Watermom]

With a K-2006, you can typically expect to get a pretty accurate pH reading with chlorine levels up to about 15pm. Pool calculators are not exact especially since volume of a pool is an estimate really.

You may be able to find CYA at Walmart. If not, get it at the pool store but don't let them convince you that you need a bunch of other stuff!

[mastamoon]

Glad to hear my pH might finally be correct. See how long it lasts.

This is the stabilizer my local pool store sells.. [ http://www.namcopool.com/pool/pool-chemicals/water-balancers/5-lbs-conditioner.html ] Is this stuff good as far as its chemical composition? Cant zoom in enough to read the label. It works out to be the same price per pound as the Kem-Tek PoolDoc recommended earlier.

[mastamoon]

Also, something is buggy with this forum.. believe it or not, I think sometimes when I hit the post quick reply button.. instead of getting the "wait for a moderator to review" message.. I get nothing.

[Watermom]

I looked at the link but I also can't read the label to know for sure that it is only CYA and nothing else. It is probably fine, but I think I'd buy from someone else where I could be sure that there is nothing in there except cyanuric or isocyanuric acid.

[PoolDoc]

It's not throwing errors that I'm forced to check, right now . . . so I'm not gonna. We're absolutely swamped with new users, plus I've got some major software upgrades in the works, so if it's not breaking something serious, I'm not getting out the digital backhoe, and hunting for it.

But, if you want to see if something breaks, try this: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?16278-Pool-Info Once I have it fully tested, completing it will be required of all active posters. By the way, you will NOT be able to post in that section.

With respect to the Namco product, I followed the link and have no quick way to tell. I'm not going to dig right now, to see if it's the same. Where we (the PoolForum and I) are probably going is to ID a few sources of decent product that may be available locally PLUS links to Amazon product we know (or as close as I can get) is OK. There are just too many blends, labels, re-labels and name games for me to try to look at every stinking product and even annual revisions. Even when I have SwimmingPoolResearch fully operational, the MSDS and product sheets there will be the most recent available to us . . . but that does NOT guarantee that a company has not pulled a switcheroo on products, like cyanuric acid, that are not EPA regulated.

Bottom line: you're own your own with the Namco stuff. I haven't seen blended (diluted!) granular cyanuric acid yet, but I'm bet it's out there!

[mastamoon]

Yeah there is at least 2 missing posts from me. One if which describes what the cya I got contains. Label says cya and sodium bicarbonate but has no percentages. Is that OK?

Other part of that post was about shock at the pool store. 12.5% sodium hypochlorite gallons for 2.99. Which is the dame price I get 6% bleach for. Any reason to just not buy the liquid shock? Is it goop? Doesn't list any other active ingredients.

[Watermom]

I would just look for CYA that has cyanuric acid (or isocyanuric acid) only. What you bought also has baking soda in it which will also raise your alk. Your alk is a little low and could stand to come up some but I have no way to know how much. The pool shock that is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite is fine. That is the same thing as bleach but just at at a higher concentration, and that would be a good price for it.

[mastamoon]

I fat fingered that price if shock.. its actually 5.99. So in reality I would be getting .5% free over my 3 dollar gallons of bleach.

My alk was a bit low so ill add 2 lbs and see what happens. Stupid pool store has a no chemicals return policy.

[PoolDoc]

One if which describes what the cya I got contains. Label says cya and sodium bicarbonate but has no percentages. Is that OK?

If you mean, will it hurt your pool? Probably not. If you mean, should you buy it in the future? No, that's how pool companies play games to sell less for more. Is this the Namco product?



12.5% sodium hypochlorite gallons for 2.99, which is the same price I get 6% bleach for. Any reason to just not buy the liquid shock?

It may be a good deal. There are two problems. First, if it's not fresh, and not kept cool, it breaks down VERY rapidly at summer time temperatures, releasing oxygen gas. Second, household bleach is usually filtered for iron, but not all industrial bleach is. You can test both: add household bleach one evening, and see how much FC increases after 1 hour. Repeat with the industrial bleach. If it increases 2x as much (or is close) it's a good deal. Then, take the used household bleach, and put about a quart of industrial bleach in it. (Watch the spills: the 15% bleach I used to work with makes cotton 'evaporate'!!) Put the jug in the hottest place you can find around the hose, preferably also exposed to sunlight. Leave the lid a little loose. Check it after two weeks or so. If there's a bunch of iron sediment in the bottom, you may want to think twice.

[PoolDoc]

Stupid pool store has a no chemicals return policy.

Actually, that's not unreasonable on bleach, or on chemicals that are not sealed.

And , $6/gal for 12% bleach is not a deal.

[mastamoon]

Yes same as I linked to before. I won't buy again. Any idea how much of this mix I will need to get to 40ish cya. I would guess the whole thing eventually lol.

Too much work to test that shock.. ill stick with the Walmart or target bleach.

[mastamoon]

I'm going to finally call my pool clear!

I overshot my borax addition though.. pH is between 7.8 and 8.0. My pool tends to loose pH so I'm going to let it sit and see what happens.

Again, any idea what dosage I should use for that Stabilizer and Conditioner? Start with a pound or 2? Directions say to mix into bucket full of pool water and dump around the pool. Should I follow that or do the sock method recommended here?

EDIT by Watermom to merge 2 posts in the mod queue:

Actually reading on line that 7.8 to 8.0 makes chlorine ineffective.. maybe ill add some water tonight and put in a lil bit of pH Decrease.

Never ends.

[Watermom]

Don't add the pH decreaser. If your pH tends to drop on its own, let it.

I have no idea how much of the stabilizer mix to tell you to add. Start with a couple of lbs. I guess. And, yes, do the sock method instead of broadcasting directly into the pool.

[PoolDoc]

Mastamoon, you are over-controlling your pool. It's a pool; not a set of numbers. The numbers will NORMALLY vary some over time and trying to FIX this normal variation just wastes money and effort.

Let me suggest a few guidelines for you:
1. There are just 4 'fix-it-now' issues in your pool: low chlorine; pH below 6.8 or above 8.2, growing algae.
2. For EVERYTHING else, do NOT change your routine until you have AT LEAST 2 readings on succeeding days show a SUSTAINED out of norm condition.
3. To reiterate: do NOT adjust and do NOT report here, until you have TWO out of range test, NOT from the same day.

[mastamoon]

Guess I use this forum like other forums.. and apparently that's not right lol

Ah well.. thanks for the help anyway.

[PoolDoc]

I don't know exactly what you mean -- but if you post multiple times per day on other forums, then yes, we discourage that here, for two reasons:

First, we don't have time to deal with folks that way, especially not during the period from May 15 to June 15. There are a limited number of people -- maybe 15 -- qualified to give good answers to multiple types of pool questions. It's not like you can go read a book, or a pool manual, and then be qualified to help people with BBB method chemistry.

Second, almost without exception, multi-posting per day means over-managing and fretting over a pool . . . and this does NOT help the pool recover faster. That's why we so often prescribe P.O.P. -- Pool Owner Patience. People get frustrated, get in a hurry, and mess up: pool stores LOVE it. Adequate supplies of P.O.P. would be almost as damaging to pool store sales, as widespread understanding of the BBB method.

[mastamoon]

Yes, they are also called discussion boards for a reason. But I understand the way this forum works that it could be bothersome for the moderators.

Generally with each random post I made, I tried to ask a question of some sort LOL.. figure the more info out there the better. Ive read many a discussion here where the general path of the conversation went 'of track' from the OP but ended up containing useful information. I had a few issues from my first post to my last ones.. killing algae, low pH, low alk, low cya... so I was tracking my progress.

Ill only post questions from now on.


I don't know exactly what you mean -- but if you post multiple times per day on other forums, then yes, we discourage that here, for two reasons:

First, we don't have time to deal with folks that way, especially not during the period from May 15 to June 15. There are a limited number of people -- maybe 15 -- qualified to give good answers to multiple types of pool questions. It's not like you can go read a book, or a pool manual, and then be qualified to help people with BBB method chemistry.

Second, almost without exception, multi-posting per day means over-managing and fretting over a pool . . . and this does NOT help the pool recover faster. That's why we so often prescribe P.O.P. -- Pool Owner Patience. People get frustrated, get in a hurry, and mess up: pool stores LOVE it. Adequate supplies of P.O.P. would be almost as damaging to pool store sales, as widespread understanding of the BBB method.

[PoolDoc]

Mastamoon; we're tired and brain-fried.

And, you're right, sometimes we chat. But, as you noted this forum (like a lot of auto forums) is not oriented toward chit-chat, ESPECIALLY this time of year. And, when we've got 10 posts in the queue, from people who need help, it's frustrating to spend excess time on one person, when we know that doing so doesn't help them or their pool, and does keep us from helping others.

If you want to be able to say whatever you want whenever you want, I'm pretty sure poolspaforum.com allows that. Maybe you'd be happier working out your issues there. Also, you can comment as much as you like on any of these manufacturer Facebook pages:

https://www.facebook.com/BioGuardUSA
https://www.facebook.com/HTHPoolCare
https://www.facebook.com/UnitedChemical
https://www.facebook.com/DELOzone

Best wishes.

[Watermom]

Mastamoon,
We are trying to help -- really! Counting since your first post on 5/27, this thread has grown to 43 posts. We are here to help and do so willingly! We like to help people learn to take care of their pools. I think all that Ben is trying to say is that sometimes we have members who get kind of obsessed with testing and with the precision of numbers and forget that pool care is not an exact science. We don't want you to do that; we want to help you manage it easily without forgetting to enjoy it!

Yes, we do chat amongst ourselves occasionally on the forum. I have no idea how many posts we answer in a day but it is high! Especially at this time of year. Sometimes it gets hard to keep all the various threads/posts/members/pools straight after we have been online answering for hours in a day. Us having a little chat, teasing each other, etc. is kind of a stress reliever for us. We have to have fun as we do this day after day after week after month after year after year or else ...... we are gonna burn out and then not be interested in sticking around to help.

We are certainly glad to have you and very willing to help you but just ask you to be mindful of the fact that right now we are absolutely swamped and for us to be able to help as many people as possible here on the forum, that we have to spread ourselves around. Hope you understand!

[mastamoon]

Yeah I'm back, but with a full test result and the numbers are looking good.

FC - 7.5 (had dumped some bleach in after a crazy rainfall we got a few days ago)
CC - 0.0
pH - 7.6
cya - 25-30 (added 1.5lbs of the Stabilizer and Conditioner I had linked to earlier)
calc - 160
alk - 80-90

Is it time to work on the alk and calcium now? Or should I try and get the CYA up some more first? I'm not sure all of the stabilizer I added is fully diluted yet. I put the 1.5lbs in a bucket full of hot water.. stirred it for like 30 mins, dumped the liquid off into the pool.. rinse and repeat till just a handful was on the bottom of the bucket. Took some pool water to that, mixed it really good and dumped it into the skimmer slowly.

And the pool is clear... hopefully I can keep it that way now that I got a handle on this number game.

Thanks POOLDOC and WATERMOM! :)

[PoolDoc]

Not sure why you'd do anything to either the calcium OR the alkalinity. (Don't pay much attention to the Taylor booklet: it's the WORST thing about that kit!)

Your stabilizer is OK. If you want to run trichlor tabs in a floater, it's great.

[mastamoon]

Not sure why you'd do anything to either the calcium OR the alkalinity. (Don't pay much attention to the Taylor booklet: it's the WORST thing about that kit!)

Your stabilizer is OK. If you want to run trichlor tabs in a floater, it's great.

I was using Pool Calculator (http://www.poolcalculator.com/) as a guide.. and according to that those numbers are low so I thought they would have to come up a bit. I guess the alkalinity is ok, but the calcium hardness looks like it should come up. But believe me, I'm fine leaving those where they are if I can :D

I still have most of that 5lb jug of the namco stabilizer, so Ill just use some more of that to bump it up another 10 maybe.

[PoolDoc]

You know what? I'm about sick of that PoolCalculator! (Not your fault! Not blaming you!) It's a useful tool, but it's NOT useful for the inexperienced. I saw it happen last year, and I'm seeing it happen more, this year: people using it end up chasing numbers FAR too often. It's my fault; I haven't make something better.

But do this: download the "Bleach Calculator", created some years ago by a member here -- http://www.poolforum.com/zxq/BleachCalc262.exe -- and use it. It's much simpler. There is some sort of issue with the borates calculation, so when you need that, check with me, first.

Anyhow, both your TA and CH are *fine* for YOUR pool. They are too low for a *concrete* pool, but that is NOT what you have.

[mastamoon]

You know what? I'm about sick of that PoolCalculator! (Not your fault! Not blaming you!) It's a useful tool, but it's NOT useful for the inexperienced. I saw it happen last year, and I'm seeing it happen more, this year: people using it end up chasing numbers FAR too often. It's my fault; I haven't make something better.

But do this: download the "Bleach Calculator", created some years ago by a member here -- http://www.poolforum.com/zxq/BleachCalc262.exe -- and use it. It's much simpler. There is some sort of issue with the borates calculation, so when you need that, check with me, first.

Anyhow, both your TA and CH are *fine* for YOUR pool. They are too low for a *concrete* pool, but that is NOT what you have.

Thanks, I also use the bleach calculator, but thought the 'target' ranges on pool calculator were "standard" recommendations.

Ill keep the TA and CH where they are and just boost my cya up another click after giving the crap I added on Sunday a chance to fully incorporate itself.

Thanks again.

[Watermom]

I agree with Ben. Your TA and CH are fine. Pool stores love to tell you that vinyl pools need calcium; HOGWASH! Low CH in a vinyl pool is not an issue; really high CH can be but yours is not high.

My advice (for what it's worth) is ................. GO SWIMMING!! :):)