Starting up pool and wanting to convert from baquacil to BBB method ?

[waterbreak]

I am a recent pool owner, and when I purchased the home the current residents were using Baquacil. I continued to use it for one year, and that was enough to decide I want to convert back. When shutting the pool down last year I was given the advise not to add any chemicals, so all the chemical levels would drop, and I changed the sand filter. I am ready to start the pool this year, but not sure where to start.
The pool is 28,000 gallon with a Triton 2 sand filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Watermom]

Here is a thread with lots of good information.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?179-FAQ-Using-or-removing-PHMB-%28Baquacil-etc.%29

Also, read through a lot of the posts in the Baquagoop (as we call it) section of the forum. In it, you will find many threads detailing other members' conversion stories. Then, come back here with specific questions that you still have. Until your registration is complete, you'll need to log out to see other parts of the forum. If you have trouble with the link, the thread can be found at the top of the PHMB: Baquacil forum.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[PoolDoc]

registration updated.

Here's the Pentair Triton page (http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-pro/products/filters-sand-triton-ii-side-mount-filters-183.htm); you probably want to download and read through the manual. You'll need to replace your filter sand, once the conversion is complete.

[waterbreak]

Thanks for your guidance. I am currently in the process of the conversion, and the posts concerning this have been very helpful. I have cleaned the bottom of the pool after removing the cover. I removed the sand from the filter before closing the pool last fall, so I have added new sand and started the pool circulating. This morning I added shock to the pool, and just as predicted it turned brownish-green color, but now has cleared to a more cloudy look. I have ordered the recommended test kit and awaiting delivery; meanwhile I am using a aqua chem I picked up at wal mart. The reading I got after shocking and waiting about 6 hours was as follows:
PH~7.4
FC~0.6
CC~1.0
I am assuming to continue to shock and clean until I can hold acceptable CC for 24 hours, and will I need to replace the sand in the filter again after the conversion is complete?

Thanks in advance for your time and help.

[PoolDoc]

If you just replaced it, check it. That's pretty easy to do with a Triton filter. If it's not gummy or balled up, you can keep it. But, if you do, check it again in the fall.

[waterbreak]

A quick update to ensure i'm heading in the right direction here. The pool water looks good mostly clear. I've listed the results I had this morning, since then I've added 10lb. of baking soda, and more bleach this evening after brushing and vacuming. I'm not sure how to raise the CYA, or if I need to worry about it yet ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. By the way, this site has proven to be most helpful, and provides a very logical approach to pool ownership. Thank You.

CYA 0
TC 1.3
FC 0
PH 7.1
TA 100

[Watermom]

If your chlorine readings are correct, then you still have a fair amount of CC -- 1.3ppm. Continue to keep the chlorine level up.

Your pH is getting a little low. Bump it up a bit with some Borax. TA is fine.

Glad you are finding the forum helpful! :)

[aylad]

To add to what Watermom posted, don't worry about the CYA yet--you need all the chlorine working on all the Bacq. When you get the CC to zero, and make a decision about whether or not the sand needs to be changed, then you can add the CYA.

[waterbreak]

Thanks to all for helping in conversion. Pool water looks great, but new problem has occured. I am losing 1-1 1/2" of water about every 12 hours. I assume this is a significant leak for a pool this size. I have found and patched several holes in the liner the last few days that I thought would have at least slowed the leak down, but it has not. I am now thinking it is in the skimmer line or the return lines. I do have air bubbles coming out of the return lines, and I have replaced all O rings and can not find any leaks around the suction side that is above ground. This past winter I dropped the water level just below the skimmer and it held. It seems that since rasing the level and starting the pump and pool circulating that the water loss started. I am filling pool back to appropriate level this morning, and then going to shut pump off and block skimmer and return lines and see if water loss still continues, hopefully this will rule out a liner leak. As always any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Waterbreak;

Suction leaks do NOT cause you to lose pool water; instead, they allow water in. You can easily have BOTH pressure leaks (water leaks OUT of the pool or pipes) AND suction leaks (air leaks INTO the pipes between the skimmer and main drain, and the PRESSURE side of the pump -- the basket is on the SUCTION side of the pump).

Close to the skimmer, it's possible to have a leak that is BOTH a pressure leak AND a suction leak, or to have multiple leaks, but usually one or the other will predominate.

Shutting off lines is always a good way to isolate the problem area.

[waterbreak]

Thanks PoolDoc,
I isolated suction lines, return lines, and liner yesterday with the pump off. The water level seemed to stabilize when I shut the return lines in the shallow end located at the entry steps, so I think the biggest leak is there. For now I have shut them off and blocked the jets, and only running the 2 return lines on the side of the pool. I found another leak in the PVC connection from pump to pipe, so I'm going to attempt and replace that today.
My question is do you think it would be ok to run just the 2 return lines this season and try to fix the issue this fall ? Looks as if the lines are run about 30ft. under concrete

[PoolDoc]

My question is do you think it would be ok to run just the 2 return lines this season and try to fix the issue this fall ? Looks as if the lines are run about 30ft. under concrete

Without actually standing at your pool, and checking it, I can't be sure. I would guess that you can -- just try it and see.

Of course, all our usual mantra applies:
+ Get a good testkit, and learn to use it (see link in my sig)
+ Maintain correct chlorine levels adjusted to your current stabilizer level (Best Guess page, in sig)
+ Do NOT trust pool stores chemical recommendations or testing; they are not always wrong, but they often are, and once you KNOW (because you've learned to test) you won't NEED their recommendations!
+ You can't replace filtration with chemicals: clean and maintain your filter and circulation rate.