New Intex owner from Texas

[Rockwall]

Hi!

Well, this is my story:

This is the equipment I have -

Intex 18'x48" Metal Frame above ground pool, 6,423 gals.
Intex Sand Filter Pump, Model SF20110, 2,650 gph
Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System CS8110

Set it up late last season, seemed ok. Water got skunky green over the short winter, and had a lot of winter rain for Texas (we needed it badly). This is my first pool, so am still learning on it.

Spent the last three weeks shocking, cleaning and algeaciding the water. Got the salt level correct, PH at 7.5, alkalinity at 120, and CYA at 30, but couldn't get it to hold any chlorine. De-scaled the anodes in the SWG, and changed the sand in the filter. Googled around and landed here where I read that too much ammonia would eat up the chlorine, and it might be better to drain and start again. Water was blue grey cloudy and I just couldn't get it clear.

So, thats what I am doing today, draining the pool. I bought new sand and will change it out and refill tomorrow. After reading some things here, it seems like you guys aren't real sure about the salt water generators. I guess I'd like to read up and get advice on startign the pool up without all of the salt first and then go from there and decide which way to go.

Now, is there a pool test kit that doesn't require color matching, for us red/green colorblind guys? Even my wife isn't too sure about matching the test strips, and we had a small 3 test kit last summer. I'd like a recommendation prior to picking up something.

Ok, gotta go read up on your BBB method now. The thread "Pool pH is at the "ideal" level, but alkalinity is super high" caught my eye and I thought this might be the best place to get real answers.

Thank you for having this forum!

[PoolDoc]

Let's start here:

Do-I-Need-a-pH-Meter-(Am-I-Color-Blind?) (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?15322)


If you get the K2006, you can do the chlorine (red to clear) and CYA tests (disappearing black dot) if you can see black and white only. The pH test does require color perception, but if you DO need to order a pH meter, let me recheck sources before you do so. Anyhow, do get the K-2006. She can do the alkalinity and calcium tests for you, if they are needed, which won't be too often on an Intex. (See the test kit page in my signature)

Next, check your sand levels, and make sure the filter is full.

Once you've done those things . . . we can talk about using floc. But it's a tricky process, and you'll need to get testing down, first.

[Rockwall]

Ok, I do have a basic hth 3-way test kit so I can do the basic phenol/OTO testing. I was hoping that by draining all water from the pool and pumps, changing out the sand, and letting the pool liner dry out, and refilling with fresh water I would be basically starting over from scratch and wouldn't need floc or a clarifier.

[Watermom]

Doing a complete drain can destroy a liner, so it is not usually a good idea to do so. Also, there is no reason to change out sand unless you add something that gunks it up like doing a conversion from Baquacil to chlorine, etc. I am on the 12th season with my same sand. I have topped it off a couple of times but that is it. Take Ben's advice and get the Taylor K-2006 kit. You need to be able to test for more than chlorine and pH and the good kit will test for everything you need.

Good luck.

[PoolDoc]

Watermom, he's got an Intex -- those can be drained safely.

Rock, it's been a long week, and I wasn't paying attention either. If you drain and refill, you can do just as you say, and will not need floc.

Watermom is also correct that you probably don't need to CHANGE your sand -- unless it's tacky/sticky or in clumps -- you just need to top it off.

Sorry!

[Watermom]

Watermom, he's got an Intex -- those can be drained safely.

Rock, it's been a long week, and I wasn't paying attention either. If you drain and refill, you can do just as you say, and will not need floc.

Watermom is also correct that you probably don't need to CHANGE your sand -- unless it's tacky/sticky or in clumps -- you just need to top it off.

Sorry!

Now I see that! I missed the part about it being an Intex. Ben is right. It has been a long week. What do you think, Doc? We've answered -- what? A gazillion or so posts this week?? :p:p

[Rockwall]

Well, thanks for your dedication to helping others, guy (and gals)!

Yeah, it's pretty easy to drain, I put four hoses in it to siphon the water off down the hill. Have spent the morning brushing the liner bottom and getting out the last of the water. I'm refilling and smoothing out the bottom liner right now.

The sand filter change was like $10 and 20 minutes of my time so I thought it would be better to get rid of any bad water in it that I could. No big deal to change it out.

I will order a K-2006 kit later today. Have to go get ready to go to my son's Baccalaureate right now.

[SafetyBob]

Welcome to the forum, I am pretty new too. My only two cents is get the big Taylor 2006 kit, I believe it is the 2006C. It has plenty of fluids to do many many tests of your pool. Once you get accurate readings from the Taylor kit, then the really experienced people here can really help you out.

My experience THIS year with the help of the forum is better than it ever has been before. What I mean is, last two years I have used the Intex SWCG system (same one all three years now), all it did was add small continuous amounts of salt each week to keep my low salt beeper from coming on. The change this year is knowing and understanding what CYA is and how it works in my pool. So far, my salt level has not changed since my original fill almost a month ago. I positively know it because I have the test data to prove it (the Taylor Salt kit also available from PoolDocs web links). And I can see my chlorine go up and down and I know why and what to do about it.

Again, I am on the new side here, there is some very wise people here who have SWCG systems. My take is, I like my Intex system, but I know now that there will be adjustments to be made, that's where BBB comes into play. On my little pool, if I need to raise FC levels up a bit, I know a cup, yes, one cup of Clorox is all I need to do it, wait a little bit as in overnight for me, test and adjust if necessary. I didn't realize that how much I use my pool and how much it is uncovered in the sun changes my chlorine levels.....didn't know that until coming here.

Enough of my ramblings. Here is what they told me and they were correct. Order the test kit, call back after you have the numbers.....great ready to have a wonderfully enjoyable pool this season.

Bob E.

[Rockwall]

Hello again!

Okay, my K-2006 kit is on it's way. I filled up the pool on the 21st, measured on the 22nd the CL @2 and PH @ 7.5 with my hth 3-way kit.

Wasn't able to tend to the pool because of work on the 23rd. Today, the 24th, it measures out at CL @.5 and PH @ 7.5 still.

Digging through some of the recent posts, it was mentioned to start adding a gal of bleach per 10,000 gals of water every night. Would a gallon today, and a half gallon in the following evenings, be okay until I get the full kit in?

I picked up at Wally World a 4lb bag of hth Salt pool care (cyanic acid). The levels it recommends are 4 lbs for 20,000 gallons. Would it be worth adding a pound of it now to help keep the CL or should I wait until I get the 2006?

Also, I've not added any salt to the pool just yet, was wanting to see if I can get this going well and use the SWCG to maintain the CL levels, much like Bob E. is doing above. Very hot and sunny here in Texas.

[PoolDoc]

If you just filled it, by all means go ahead and add the stabilizer -- 1 or 2 lbs in a sock.

If you water is clear, adding 1/2 gallon of plain 6% bleach should do you -- but you can't quit while you wait for the kit. Get a local OTO kit and skip adding bleach ONLY if the PM chlorine level is dark yellow.

[Rockwall]

I'll rig up a 1lb sock tomorrow morning. I have an OTO kit that I am taking the CL and PH measurements with. Water is very clear but the yellow of the test was very, very light, about .5 it read.

I put in a gallon late this afternoon, and will put 1/2 gallon in each evening until I get to dark yellow.

Thanks!

[PoolDoc]

You're welcome.

[Rockwall]

Okay, I have my K-2006 kit in hand now. I've been adding chlorine regulary to my pool to keep it in the strong yellow range. I was using bleach but my wife was very leery of the concept of 'bleach' in the water (even after I explained to her that bleach was basically chlorine and water) but am now using hth Chlorinating granules (calcium hypochlorate).

I followed the directions for the CYA test, but wasn't sure about one thing - how much should the dot "disappear"? It went from black to a light greyish but never really disappeared. Or is that how it should be? I had added 2 lbs of CYA about 10 days ago via the sock in the return stream method.

[PoolDoc]

It has to disappear completely; that is, when you look down, you can't see that there is a black dot there at all.

Tell your wife that bleach adds salt to the pool, which goes nicely with your SWCG (saltwater chlorine generator); but that calcium hypochlorite adds calcium, which tends to kill the plates on a cheap SWCG. Her choice, though.

[Rockwall]

Should I add another pound of CYA via the sock, wait a day or two and then redo the dot test?

[PoolDoc]

If you are going to use an SWCG, bleach and/or cal hypo -- you need more than a pound or two. The general recommendation for SWCG's is CYA=80. On your pool that will take 4 lbs of CYA, or 9 lbs of dichlor chlorinating granules.

[Rockwall]

Alrighty, I'll add another 2 pounds after work then on top of the two I already put in there.

[Watermom]

Ask your wife is she would feel better if you used pool store liquid chlorine instead. Odds are that she will say yes. Then, tell her that pool store liquid chlorine is usually 10 or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite and bleach is 6% sodium hypochlorite. If 10 or 12.5% strength is ok for your pool, then surely 6% will be! (It's just the word "bleach" that scares people.)

[Rockwall]

Hi!

Got busy but I'm back. Glad to see the pool plan for the Intex owners!! I checked my CYA again today and it was 60. I had bought a 5 b jug of the HTH chlorinating granules, and used it up. I don't want to use the calcium based stuff again, so I will probably get the recommended PoolBrand dichlor shock bags at Sams.

My question is, will the dichlor continue to add stabilizer to my water, and bring it up to 80 (from 60), or, should I get some of the same CYA from Walmart ad bring it up to 80, along with the dichlor? I just don't wan't to overdo it on the stabilzer?

I'll start adding bleach until I hear which way I shoul dbe going with this. Thanks!

[Watermom]

Dichlor does have CYA (stabilizer) in it. It adds 10ppm of CYA for every 9ppm of chlorine it adds. So, it will raise your CYA quickly! You won't want to use it for long and then you can switch to bleach.

(It also is very acidic and will drive your pH down, so keep an eye on it so it doesn't go below 7.0.)

[Rockwall]

Hhhmm. Is there a non-liquid pure chlorine format that I can use instead of bleach? The granules seemed easier to store and apply than liquid jugs of bleach, and I'm not sure the bleach is cheaper. My pH has been a steady 7.5, and I had been adding about 1/2 cup of granules every other evening to keep the OTO dark yellow. The SWCG runs for 4 hours at night.

And if I go a pure chlorine route, how much more CYA should I add? I had been doing a pound at a time via the sock method, until I had added the full 4 lbs ... I don't remember how much that raised me to, I can't find my notes. We have had rain this summer, unusual for Texas, so I know I lost some CYA from pool overflow.

[PoolDoc]

In the sense of "pure pool chlorine" -- there is no such thing. Even pure chlorine gas is (I'm simplifying things here) is functionally 1/2 pool chlorine and 1/2 muriatic acid.

The 'purest' pool chlorine, in the sense of fewest side effects, IS bleach.

[Watermom]

If your pool store sells liquid chlorine (10 or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite) that is the same thing as bleach but at a higher concentration. (Bleach is 6% sodium hypochlorite.) It may be more convenient for you as it would cut down on the number of bleach bottles.

[Rockwall]

In the sense of "pure pool chlorine" -- there is no such thing. Even pure chlorine gas is (I'm simplifying things here) is functionally 1/2 pool chlorine and 1/2 muriatic acid.

The 'purest' pool chlorine, in the sense of fewest side effects, IS bleach.

:-) Allright then, my bad for not being clear. I meant 'pure' as in what vendor carries a granule based chlorine pool product that has the least amount of other chemical products in it (calcium, stabilizers, etc). In my case, I have to store the liquid bleach in the garage, and I either have to carry it through the house (most direct route) or take it outside and around the house (more convoluted route). I was not as concerned having to carry granules through the house as if I were to spill them, I could vacuum/sweep them up. Liquid bleach would be a disaster. I can't store the bleach near the pool.

[PoolDoc]

I don't think there is a form that fits with what you have in mind. Cal hypo (~68% chlorine) adds calcium; trichor (~90% chlorine) adds stabilizer.

If you can't put a lockable storage box near the pool . . . I don't know what to tell you.

[Watermom]

I keep my jugs of bleach in the utility room in my basement where it is cool. When I need a jug, I carry it up a flight of carpeted stairs. In all the years I have been doing this, I have never had a drop of bleach leak from a jug. Just my $0.02.

[PoolDoc]

Thanks, WM.