opening pool - water test results

[mike_311]

ok, so i took the first step of advice and got a water testing drop based kit. i got the taylor complete version.

Background: i had some serious issues last summer with algae and im starting it off right this year, so help me out, please :)

I live in NJ, i have an above ground pool and its a 12x24, right now the winter cover is still on, i plan to get the pump out of storage today and start opening the pool, i figure with the weather still cool, it will let me take my time to get the chemistry right before the kids rush me to start using it.

ok, so now the results:

PH - 7.4
Alkalinity - 180ppm as calcium carbonate
Calcium hardness 150ppm as calcium carbonate
Free chlorine - 0
Total Chlorine - 0
Cyanuric Acid - 100ppm, actually could be above that if that possible, the test didn't even make it to the 100 level, the black dot disappeared way before it.

so what are the next steps from this point? i still need to add about a 1ft of water to get it above the skimmer. I also tested my tap water and its PH 7.4.

Thanks

Mike

[PoolDoc]

Hi Mike;

1. Taylor "Complete" as in, K-2005 with DPD color match? If so, go to the testkit info page, and order a K-1515 DPD-FAS supplement. With your pool's high CYA, you will absolutely need it.

2. Collect a new water sample. In a glass mixing cup, add 1/4 cup of pool water, and then 1/4 cup tap water. Mix. Fill your CYA sample bottle with this mix to the first line. Add CYA reagent to the 2nd line. Do your CYA test again. Multiple result by 2. Yes, it's VERY possible you have a CYA level more than 100ppm.

3. Buy 4 gallons of plain 6% household bleach. Mix 1 with 3 gallons water (you don't have to mix it all at once -- if you spill this mix on your clothes, you'll need a new set of clothes!). Pour the mixture into the pool from at least 4 different locations.

4. Figure out how much it would cost to drain and refill with fresh water.

5. Post the CYA test result, and the estimated refill cost.

[mike_311]

1. i have the K-2006.

2. about 190ppm

3. what does this do, beside chlorinate my pool...?

4. that bad huh? about $100 to refill.

==============================
also which kit? the k1515a or c one is $15, one is $50...

[PoolDoc]

OK. 190 ppm CYA.

What that means is that you'll either have to drain the pool OR you will have to run a NORMAL level of chlorine 15 - 20 ppm.

Downsides:
- the ONLY way to test your chlorine is with the K-2006 (C model has 3x the test reagents -- get it, if you don't drain!)
- you'll need a $75 pH meter to test your pH (high chlorine screws up the pH test, though maybe not with CYA=200ppm.)
- dealing with algae will be a little tricky, and you'll need to keep a $20 bottle of sodium bromide on hand for that purpose
- if you have your water tested by a dealer, you'll get weird responses, ranging from head scratching (Not sure what's going on with your water) to panic and hyped up sales attempts (OMG! Drain today or die! And, buy $1,000 of our chemicals to help clean up!)

Upside:
+ chlorine usage will be VERY low.
+ you'll be able to dose chlorine 1x per week (go from 15 ppm to 20 ppm)
+ vacations will be easy (just dose to 25 - 30 ppm -- and take off. As long as the pump runs, and you're back within 10 days, you should be fine!)
+ your water chemistry will be VERY stable.
+ If you also use borax at 50+ ppm, you will have even MORE stable water chemistry, reduced chance of algae, and very high water quality

Your choice, though. If you drain, drain to 1/4 level, so you don't have to add stabilizer

The Best Guess page, linked in my sig, explains some of the chemistry and the options.

[mike_311]

trying to figure out how low to drain. what level of CYA am i shooting for?

[PoolDoc]

Well, based on your results, you should have a final level of about 50 ppm, if you drain your pool to the 3/4 empty point, and then refill. 50 ppm is a good level to use with bleach, if you want to operate conventionally.

[mike_311]

i dont want to take it down too far because if the vinyl liner. there was about 3' of water in it if i take it down to a foot and refill full with with the 4' or so of water that should put me at about 50ppm.

its about 18" deep now so a few more hours and i'll start the refill.

what this first step after that?

set the ph? what value?

add chlorine? how much?

[Watermom]

With a CYA of around 50, you want to keep the chlorine level between 3-6 all the time. If you dip below that, you risk an algae bloom. In this size pool, each quart of 6% bleach will add 2ppm of chlorine. Use that as a reference to help you determine how much bleach to add. Each evening, you'll want to test pH and chlorine. At that time, add enough chlorine to get the level back to 6ppm.

While you are refilling it, go ahead and add a little bleach. Every foot of water added, add a quart of bleach. By the time you have it filled up, that should be about a 3 quart jug having been added which should take you to about 6ppm.

With a CYA of 50, you won't want to use any forms of stabilized chlorine, meaning no trichlor pucks nor dichlor shock powder or else your CYA will continue to rise.

Although not critical, you may want to lower your alk a little to get it between 80-120 or so. Read about this process here: Lowering Alkalinity Step-by-Step (http://poolsolutions.com/gd/lowering-swimming-pool-alkalinity-step-by-step.html)


Also, read the "using muriatic acid safely" link in my signature below.

[mike_311]

btw, thanks you so much for this forum. i really appreciate all the advice.

my wife picked up a few bottles of Clorox (6%) is that ok or do i want something else? i realize that it not be the most cost effective brand, but that's what she got when i said plain 6% bleach :)

so are there any chlorine tabs i can use or am i keeping the pool chlorinated with bleach only?

[Watermom]

Clorox is fine but just more expensive. Most of us use generic from Walmart. Just make sure to get unscented plain bleach. The tabs are stabilized, so you don't want to use them. So is most bagged shock powder. Best to just stick with bleach.

Glad the forum has been helpful to you. That is why we are here!

[mike_311]

what about the ph, is it ok at 7.4 or should i raise or lower it a little?

[Watermom]

Depends on if you are going to try and lower your alk or just let it stay where it is. Go back and read the "lowering ak" link I put in post #8. Alk of 180 is a little high, but not super critical on a vinyl pool. You can decide whether or not you want to lower it some. Generally, 80-120 is what we suggest.

If you are going to try and lower it, you'll want to drop your pH per the link I mentioned. If not, then 7.4 is OK.

[mike_311]

ok, i 'll see where the alkalinity is after i refill, that number was based off the old water.

[mike_311]

ok, the pool has been drained and refilled and here are the water test results:

CYA - between 35 and 40ppm
PH - 7.6
AK - 48ppm as calcium carbonate
calcium hardness 32ppm as calcium carbonate

i just put 3 qts of 6% bleach in and its stirring around now, do i still want to be between 3 and 6ppm chlorine?

[Watermom]

Yes. Keep your chlorine between 3-6. If it drops below that, you risk an algae bloom.

[mike_311]

so is there an easier way to test my chlorine daily (strips?) or do i need to use the drop kit to check it?

[aylad]

Strips are going to answer the question "is there any, or no, chlorine in the pool". They won't reliably tell you how much. You can get a cheap OTO kit (Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, or anywhere else they sell pool stuff) that uses red and yellow drops for pH and chlorine--they usually measure up to 5 ppm and you can dilute the sample to read a little higher if you need to.

[mike_311]

i already have the $50 drop kit that Taylor makes, but it is a PITA to check the chlorine with that EVERY day, since i am using bleach. plus i dont think I'll have enough chemical to make it through one season.

i was wondering if there was a quicker/easier to check the chlorine daily and them formally drop check the water every few weeks for the other values.

[PoolDoc]

Once you have your pool chemistry on a steady routine, you won't need to test so much.

Also, if you got an OTO kit like recommended, you can use that in between DPD-FAS tests -- it's not as accurate, but it's FAR more accurate and reliable than test strips.

[mike_311]

thanks, i'll look into it.

[Watermom]

Mike, that is what I do. I use my OTO kit daily or at the very least, every other day. Then, I use my K-2006 occasionally. It makes the reagents last a lot longer and for every day use, the OTO/Phenol Red kit gives you all the info you need. If you are fighting something in the water or trying to clear up a pool, you need the FAS-DPD component for testing higher chlorine levels than an OTO can handle but otherwise, the cheaper kit is sufficient for most daily testing. (Plus, replacing the OTO refills are cheap.)

[mike_311]

im opening my pool just now for the summer and coming back to this thread to to see the level of chlorine i need to be at.

Just want to say thanks again for all your help and great advice. i stuck with bleach the entire summer. i thought it would be a pain to drop in the bleach each night but once i got into the routine it was easy and i didn't have one algae bloom and my water was crystal clear all summer. thanks !!!

[PoolDoc]

thanks for the follow-up feedback; we don't always receive that.