cloudy water

[Zac851]

In the process of of trying to get my water cleared up now. This is my first inground pool...and I'm pretty much lost. I adjusted the PH and alkalinity and was then told to shock it. Its a bright sky blue color right now and extremely cloudy...can maybe see about 1 foot down.

The Pool dealer sold me some stuff called Chlor Mor Super Floc Out but after reading a little bit on this forum I'm going to hold off on putting that in.

The pool is a vinyl liner IG pool 16x32 foot 8 foot on the deep in.

Only thing I have done is adjust the PH to 7.2, and shock it and backwash it. I guess I need to get a decent test kit next.

Anything else I can do from here?

[PoolDoc]

Hi Zac;

1. If you have NO test kit, go to Walmart or wherever, and a get a cheap OTO/phenol red drops kit. (NOT: strips!)
2. Make sure the pH is more than 7.0 and less than 8.0; otherwise don't worry about it now.
3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)
4. List, by exact product name, the pool chemicals you have in your possession . . . but DO NOT use them.
5. Run your pump & filter 24/7.
6. If you have a valve that will allow you to SLOW the water flow to 1/2, without over-pressuring your filter, do so.
7. Order a good kit (Taylor K2006, or an add on, if you have a K-2005). Kit info page link in my signature.
8. List the pump and filter you have by make, model, & size.
9. If you've got any specific questions, ask them when you post test results.
10. Use 6% bleach to maintain chlorine levels in the "dark yellow" zone, till we've worked out a plan.
11. If you've got algae on the bottom, add 2 gallons of bleach and then brush AFTER you've added the bleach.
12. As needed, use muriatic acid to LOWER your pH -- approx 1/2 gallon at a time. (Instruction page! (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?13111))
13. Use 20 Mule Team borax to RAISE your ph, 1 box at a time added SLOWLY to the skimmer with the pump on.
14. Otherwise, we'll give you next steps when we here from you.

Best wishes!

[Zac851]

Thanks. I picked up a cheap kit from walmart today. I also stopped by the pool place and let them test the water again just to see if it changed from when they checked it last time. No worries though....they didnt try to sell me anything, LOL

Total Alkalinity - 85
pH - 7.6
Calcium Hardness - 132
Free Chlorine - 0
Cyanuric Acid - 10

Chemical Inventory that I have on hand:
*14 bags of 1lb Dry Chlorinating granules. The brand is by Re*Fresh and 68% Calcium Hypochlorite and 32% other ingrediants.
*25lbs of 3" Chlorine tabs made by Pool Season
Three 4oz bags of Mustard Algae Treatment made by Poolife. 98% Sodium Bromide. 2% other Ingrediants
1 quart of Clor Mor Super Floc-Out

I'm unsure on the pump and filter make and models but will post them when I get home from work in a bit. I also noticed yesterday when I was looking that I have a Hayward CL200 Chlorine Feeder...Not sure how I should be using that either. I'm assuming just fill it up with tablets.. anyway...I'll add the 2 gallons of bleach this evening and then brush.

[PoolDoc]

1. If you have NO test kit, go to Walmart or wherever, and a get a cheap OTO/phenol red drops kit. (NOT: strips!)
2. Make sure the pH is more than 7.0 and less than 8.0; otherwise don't worry about it now.
3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)
4. List, by exact product name, the pool chemicals you have in your possession . . . but DO NOT use them.
5. Run your pump & filter 24/7.
6. If you have a valve that will allow you to SLOW the water flow to 1/2, without over-pressuring your filter, do so.
7. Order a good kit (Taylor K2006, or an add on, if you have a K-2005). Kit info page link in my signature.
8. List the pump and filter you have by make, model, & size.
9. If you've got any specific questions, ask them when you post test results.
10. Use 6% bleach to maintain chlorine levels in the "dark yellow" zone, till we've worked out a plan.
11. If you've got algae on the bottom, add 2 gallons of bleach and then brush AFTER you've added the bleach.
12. As needed, use muriatic acid to LOWER your pH -- approx 1/2 gallon at a time. (Instruction page! (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?13111))
13. Use 20 Mule Team borax to RAISE your ph, 1 box at a time added SLOWLY to the skimmer with the pump on.
14. Otherwise, we'll give you next steps when we here from you.

Do NOT use the sodium bromide material; there may be a time you use that, but it's not now, and not soon! The other materials can be used us later.

[Zac851]

The sand filter is a Hayward Pro Series Model S244T
The Motor says A.O. Smith Corp
Model - C48L2N134C1
Chlorine feeder - CL200

[PoolDoc]

It's confusing, but motors have separate models and info from pump (motor + wet end). An AO Smith C48L2N134C1 is a 1.5HP motor, though I don't know if it's 'uprate' or 'full rate'.

But anyhow, what we need is the PUMP model, which should be on a label somewhere on the wet end. Regardless, knowing that it's a 1.5 HP, we almost certainly know it's too big for your filter, which means your filter has probably lost sand during backwash . . . .which means it may not filter very well.

Adding sand to a S244T is a pain, unless you happen to have unions in place to make it easy. So, unless you have a "must be clear by May X" deadline, it would probably be better to test it with DE powder. Take look at the links, and see if you can find some locally -- you only need a couple of pounds to test the filter, but you can use more, to help clean up the mess:

Diatomaceous Earth Pool Filter D.E. 25 lbs (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002WKK6WI/poolbooks)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419Srg%2BsaIL.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002WKK6WI/poolbooks)

To test your filter, just add a couple of pounds (a couple of quarts) to the skimmer, and then go watch one of the returns. If you see white DE powder shoot back into the pool . . . you're going to have to work on your filter.

[Zac851]

Brushed and added the bleach (2gallons)about 6am this morning and then tested about ten minutes ago.

I came up with:
Free chlorine - 0.5
Combined chlorine - was I between the 0.6 reading and 1.0 so I guess I'll go with middle which is 0.8
pH seemed higher today. I came up with 7.8 on my cheap little tester. Ill check for that de powder tomorrow at a little pool place by my work.

Here's a pic of the label in the motor -- [RMVD - PoolDoc]

[PoolDoc]

Yeah, I looked at your motor label -- but that's what it is; a motor label. The pump label is on the wet end of things.


3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)

Up the dose to 4 gallons, and add it in the EVENING. Let us know when you get the K-2006 -- we need FC, CC, and CYA readings in particular. (And no, you can't trust your pool store tests -- a few are trustworthy, most aren't, and the only way to tell the difference is to compare their results with your K-2006 results . . . !)

[Zac851]

Sorry, I should have read more closely.. Also I thought the pump/motor were all one unit. I'll look on it tonight and see if there is any model number or label anywhere else that I didnt see and I'll add more bleach tonight and check it in the morning with my little walmart kit before I leave for work and post up.

K-2006 is ordered and on the way. I bought the cheaper 3/4oz version. Hopefully that will last me through the summer.

The water was much more clear this morning than it ever has been so far. I could see the bottom on the shallow end now.

[Watermom]

You can use a cheaper OTO/Phenol Red kit for daily testing and use the Taylor K-2006 for once a week or so testing. Unless you are clearing up a problem of some type or tweaking any chemistry levels. In those cases, you would use the K-2006 more often. The one test you quickly run out of is the CYA test. So, use those sparingly. You can always order refills for reagents you need to replace without ordering a whole new kit.

[Zac851]

Here is the only thing I can find on the pump. It's very difficult or me to make out. It looks like SP2610X13.

http://i570.photobucket.com.KILLED/albums/ss141/randomofftopicpics/0ffcc196.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Oa1uGdXNyas/T6MvA8Ta5eI/AAAAAAAACqk/8wsalNwgbxQ/s640/0ffcc196.jpg

[PoolDoc]

1.5 HP Hayward Super Pump => SP2610x15 (Hayward site page) (http://www.hayward-pool.com/prd/In-Ground-Pool-Pumps-Super-Pump-_10201_10551_13004_-1_14002__I.htm)

Unless you've got a lot of other gear on the pool, that pump is oversize for the filter -- however, the CL200 restricts flow so much that you may NOT have excess flow, but ARE wasting a bunch of electricity. If THIS:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hJ-TxTfpKBM/TieFVcLkBzI/AAAAAAAAAJU/-i7pRXxT9tQ/s400/CL200%2520ed.jpg
is the chlorinator you have, then THIS is the hole you're trying to push ALL your pool water through:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uLGRjmLCFbg/TieFVlGER9I/AAAAAAAAAJY/kMtn5QgnIZ4/s400/port%25208813.jpg

. . . NOT my favorite piece of Hayward equipment!

[Zac851]

Here's the entire system. The person who opened the pool left the valve all the way to the left in the closed position which I believe controls the drain in the bottom of the pool. The valve next to it is the skimmer I think and I'm not really sure what the two valves are on the right. I just added two more gallons of bleach a little earlier and I'll report back in the morning with results.
http://i570.photobucket.com.KILLED/albums/ss141/randomofftopicpics/a25dc236.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wKY93L2rTlY/T6OpVZ-A1OI/AAAAAAAACrY/TpOIJJOvVRw/s640/a25dc236.jpg

[Zac851]

Free chlorine - 1.5
Combined - 3.0
pH - 7.8

[Zac851]

So what should I do next to it?

I went by one pool place today but They only had the large 25lb bags of the DE powder and I didnt want to buy such a large amount since you said I only needed a few pounds. I went to tractor supply store next and they had a small 4lb bag of DE powerder used to treat bed bugs and other pest. Here is the brand they had. Would this be OK to use to test my filter? If not I guess I'll just buy the 25lb bag.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/safer-reg-brand-brand-diatomaceous-earth-bed-bug-ant-and-crawling-insect-killer-4-lb--1023455?zoneMarketInfo=2-12&reqUrl=%2Fsafer-reg-brand-brand-diatomaceous-earth-bed-bug-ant-and-crawling-insect-killer-4-lb--1023455&langId=-1&storeId=10551&storeCity=city%2C+state&catalogId=10001&storeZip=35022&ddkey=http:LocationBasedPricingCmd

[PoolDoc]

Get the 25# bag. It will keep forever, if you have a place to store it.

The problem with the bug-grade of DE is that it may be too fine -- I don't know. But if you use it, and it blows back into the pool, we won't know if it's because it's really, really fine DE, or because your filter has problems.

[Zac851]

Alright. What about vacuuming it? Should I start doing that? I have a blue diamond robotic vacuum that I bought last year right after I bought the house and moved in towards the end of summer but that's the only vacuum I've got.

[PoolDoc]

You'd be better off with a manual vacuum. But, you sorta have to get a whole package. I looked on Amazon, and they have PoolMaster which I think is OK residential quality stuff. I'm not sure, because I've always used commercial grade products which are considerably more expensive. Anyhow:

Poolmaster 27514 Classic Full View Triangular Vinyl Liner Vacuum @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0007PZN5K/poolbooks)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o_TG-DIsm40/T6R6y_0PovI/AAAAAAAACts/DqQTArS1-w4/s400/triangle%2520vac%2520head.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0007PZN5K/poolbooks)


Poolmaster 33430 Premium Vacuum Hose with Swivel Cuff, 30ft x 1-1/2in @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005SS9EB0/poolbooks)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LJ0ODGUFIl4/T6R6ymIYC2I/AAAAAAAACtk/mpcRUdNzcw0/s800/vac%2520hose.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005SS9EB0/poolbooks)


Poolmaster 20172 18in Nylon Aluminum Back Pool Brush @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0017SUEE6/poolbooks)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-McXRIODqPpg/T6R6yEFNG3I/AAAAAAAACtU/Oy9-XtkmMVM/s400/pool%2520brush.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0017SUEE6/poolbooks)


Poolmaster 21191 Premier Aluminum Pool Leaf Skimmer, Black/Silver @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000WA3R3K/poolbooks)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-erWG1nJZVWg/T6R6yKfPGhI/AAAAAAAACtQ/M31kQi6sprg/s400/skimmer.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000WA3R3K/poolbooks)


Hydro Tools 8365 8- to 16-Foot Adjustable Fluted Premium Fluted Telescopic Pool Pole, White @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0032JSQE8/poolbooks)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7D-kmQdQEFg/T6R6yA2_EdI/AAAAAAAACtM/evTfFbLejX4/s400/pool%2520pole.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0032JSQE8/poolbooks)

------------------------------------------------------------------
Needed mostly for spring and fall clean-up:
Poolmaster 21196 Premier Aluminum Pool Leaf Rake (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00106TAU4/poolbooks)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w82Zi7o84SA/T6R7qCzD3qI/AAAAAAAACt8/A0_03IrMDFM/s400/leaf%2520net.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00106TAU4/poolbooks)

You can look around locally. The stuff I've seen personally in Lowes, Walmart, etc. is junk. I'd guess pool stores have a higher grade of gear, but I haven't been in a pool store in 20 years. You can find higher grade stuff at some of the only retailers. Rainbow (now a Pentair brand) has some decent poles and an excellent (but expensive) commercial vac head. Nycon makes commercial grade skimmers, brushes, and leaf rakes.

[Zac851]

CC - 0
FC - 0
pH - 7.4
CYA - 0. Was able to easily see the black dot with the tube all the way full.

I also tested the filter and It looked like a VERY small amount may have came out. It was hard to see though. It rained the past 2 days and really hard yesterday and the water is very very cloudy now.

Where do from here?? Id like to have it cleared up by Saturday or Sunday since it's been so hot here if possible but if not, oh well.

Thanks for all your help.

[Watermom]

The only way to get this pool cleared up is to consistently keep chlorine in it. You may also have some filter issues since you think some of the DE came out. I'll let Ben address those. But, even if you have to have filter work done, you'll still need to keep chlorine in there or else you aren't going to have a cloudy pool, you'll have a green pool!

You can either use bleach for your chlorine and then add some CYA separately. If you go this route, you'll need about 5 or 6 lbs. of CYA, often called stabilizer or conditioner. The ingredient will be cyanuric or isocyanuric acid.

OR you can chlorinate with dichlor for awhile which will add chlorine and CYA at the same time. You can buy it at a good price at Sam's --- PoolBrand. Some other places are selling blends which have unwanted stuff in there, so be careful what you buy. (Once your CYA level gets to 40-50, you'll want to switch to an unstabilized form of chlorine, though.)

No guarantees about Saturday or Sunday though..........

[Zac851]

What about those large 3" chlorine tablets I have? Can I use those? If so can I just fill my chlorinator with the tablets and then turn the flow control knob all the open? I also have a little floating one as well

I have a costco membership so maybe they carry something similar to SAMs

[PoolDoc]

You can put them in the skimmer. If you put them in the chlorinator, there's no telling when they'll dissolve. Those units have VERY erratic performance, in my experience. But, in the skimmer -- if you have a timer, make sure your pool is never off more than 8 hours at a time.

You can use the floating one, TOO.

BUT . . . add 2 boxes of borax SLOWLY through the skimmer. (You can even do it while the tabs are in the skimmer, but do NOT let ANY other chemicals EVER touch trichlor!!!!) Wait 4 hours; check the pH. Add 2 more if the pH is below 7.6

Costco? No. We checked. They went over to the dark side, and are selling AquaChem devil-blend chlorine.

But you can buy bleach there. Use bleach to GET YOUR CHLORINE UP. You can use the tabs, but USE BLEACH TO MAKE UP THE DIFFERENCE! You are not going to be clear by Saturday. And, if you don't keep your chlorine up, you won't be clear by Saturday week, either!.

Do you have an OTO kit? (If you don't get one). Do NOT let your pool get below dark yellow, even for a minute, while there's the slightest trace of green in your pool.

Post tomorrow with test readings, info on what kit you have and how you are testing, and pool appearance.

Also, check your chlorinator and make sure (A) it's empty and (B) it's turned on FULL. We can use the cal hypo you've got, soon, but we have to be 100% sure there's ZERO cal hypo in that feeder. (Best thing would be to remove it altogether!!)

[CarlD]

Here's the entire system. The person who opened the pool left the valve all the way to the left in the closed position which I believe controls the drain in the bottom of the pool. The valve next to it is the skimmer I think and I'm not really sure what the two valves are on the right. I just added two more gallons of bleach a little earlier and I'll report back in the morning with results.
http://i570.photobucket.com.KILLED/albums/ss141/randomofftopicpics/a25dc236.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wKY93L2rTlY/T6OpVZ-A1OI/AAAAAAAACrY/TpOIJJOvVRw/s640/a25dc236.jpg

In the picture, the two valves to the left control water coming FROM the pool to the pump. One is undoubtedly the skimmer, the other is from the low drain(s). The two on the right are for the returns--filtered water coming back to the pool, after passing through the in-line chlorinator. The pipe coming directly out of the right side of the filter and going straight into the ground is your backwash drain line.
Hope this helps.

Carl

[Zac851]

good info thanks, and sorry, I forgot to add that those last numbers I posted were done with my new taylor kit that UPS delivered today. I'll go pick up the Borax and stock up on bleach from costco tomorrow and start off by adding a couple bottles of bleach tomorrow afternoon and then test the following morning and drop some tabs in the floater and skimmer and see how good it looks by the weekend

[Zac851]

Just thought I would post a update real quick. I put 2 gallons of bleach into the pool, and then 3 tablets into the skimmer and filled the chlorine floater up with 4 of my tablets. The 3 tablets in the skimmer already dissolved when I got home late last night and the 4 tablets in the skimmer were just dissolved a small amount. They might have all 4 gotten about a half inch smaller. Thats with the floater opened all the way and I always run the pump 24 hours a day 7 days a week.

Anyway, It's amazing how much more clear the pool is. I can easily see the bottom on the shallow side very clearly and I can see the bottom on the deep side although the deep end is just a tiny bit cloudy still... I'll test the pool numbers with my Taylor K0006 kit when I get home from work late tonight and post them up and see if you guys think I should make any changes...but otherwise I think everything is coming along great. I've got to run to the local pool place today and pick up a new vacuum hose since mine has a broken end and wouldn't stay attached very well when I vacuumed the other day. I can easily see the sand/dirt every where that I missed when I vacuumed blindly in the cloudy water...but from what I can tell...I dont see any algae anywhere at all. Just dirt.

Oh, and one more question. There is a underwater light on the deep end of the pool that's built into the pool wall and the bulb blew. Is there a standardized size for pool bulbs that I can use for a replacement?

[PoolDoc]

Is there a standardized size for pool bulbs that I can use for a replacement?

Replacing pool bulbs can be very tricky. The bulb may be standard, but the lamps are not. You need to make sure you know the type of lamp, and that you have replacement gaskets available BEFORE you try to remove the lamp. Otherwise, wait till you don't mind if the pool is unusable for 2 weeks, because you've got a messed lamp and wires in the water.

[Zac851]

Just got home and tested with my k0006 kit.

Free Chlorine - 1ppm
Combined Chlorine - 1ppm (I thought these would be different)
pH - 7.3
Total Alkalinity - 90
CYA - 0

I'm about to go add 2 boxes of the Borax that you said to add and then test later on tonight before I go to bed. I was always under the assumption that 7.2 pH was great but after reading your link - http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/hiphpool.html I'll just take your word for it.

I'm still a little confused on CYA though. I understand its a chlorine stabilizer but why don't I have any traces of it in my test? Is there not any CYA in my 3" chlorine tablets?

Either way I know the Cholorine numbers need to come up or I'll be back green shortly. I think I read on here somewhere that 5-10ppm was idea? What do I need to do next? I was going to add the borax tonight and test pH in the morning and I guess I need to get the chlorine numbers up and add the stabilizer to it. The closest pool store to me is a leslies pool supply. What is the best CYA to pick up from there? I've got to go there in the morning to get a vacuum hose since the pool place I stopped at today only had 40+ foot hoses.

[Zac851]

Oh forgot to post pics of how clear its looking as of 20 minutes ago. Thank goodness I didnt pay the pool place the $500 they wanted to do everything.

Entire pool with algae dust
http://i195.photobucket.com.KILLED/albums/z207/zac851/ea970497.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XufQaY8knIA/T65n69BZR7I/AAAAAAAAC08/XeExiaFtvMo/s800/web%2520pool%2520w%2520algae%2520dust.jpg

Steps with algae dust
http://i195.photobucket.com.KILLED/albums/z207/zac851/77e2e342.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CVEy_Tnu404/T65n7b8jvKI/AAAAAAAAC1E/qZUsoFEdr5U/s800/web%2520pool%2520steps%2520w%2520algae%2520dust.jp g

[PoolDoc]

Glad it's working our for you!

[Zac851]

Ok so I added one four pound box of borax just to see how much pH would rise from 7.2 on my last test and two bottles of bleach (1.42/each) before bed and checked it this morning. I grabbed my cheap Walmart kit rather than my Taylor kit which I'm thinking was a bad idea. It looked like chlorine was 4ppm and I couldn't tell a differnce between free chlorine and combined chlorine and I got what looked like almost 8.0 on pH. I don't see anyway that pH came up that much from one box of borax. I should have used my Taylor kit. I'll test again when I get home in a bit to see what I get.

[Zac851]

Alright, I tested again this evening with my taylor kit. I guess my walmart kit was pretty spot on this morning. I just don't understand how the pH went from 7.3 to 8.0 by using 1 four pound box of borax? I checked twice to make sure I wasn't making some sort of mistake (pretty impossible to do that anyway). I'm really glad that I decided to only add that first box to see how it would affect it before adding the second box.

So awhile ago the numbers were:

FC - 1
CC - 0.5
pH - 8.0
Alk - 100
CYA - Didn't even bother wasting a test.

I understand that most here recommend to run high pH levels regardless of what pools stores and Pool SOP's say but with it being at 8.0 should I adjust it down slightly to like 7.8? I also vacuumed to waste this evening and kind of took my time doing it which caused approximately 5 inches of water loss. It took right at 2 hours to get it back to proper levels so perhaps that might have knocked the pH down a tad by me adding all that water back??

While at Leslies pool supply I picked up 8 pounds of conditioner (says 99% cyanuric acid and 1% other ingredients) per WaterMoms instructions I was going to add 5-6lbs of it and see where that takes the CYA to. Actually I think I might go with 4 lbs starting out to be safe. From reading here, just add straight into the skimmer and then don't backwash for 4 of 5 days so it will dissolve in the filter. Then do a CYA test and see where the pool is at. It is almost completely clear now but the deep end is still slightly hazy but still viewable on the bottom..

Anyone see any problems with this plan?? Also I will still add a one or two bottles of 1.42 gallon bleach every evening.

And that brings me to my last question…I actually have a lot more of these expensive tricolor 3" tablets than I thought. I understand they increase CYA so If I get my CYA to the proper level range, its probably best that I do not use these anymore right? If thats the case I've got a co-worker who swears by them and says its just about the only chemical he uses and says he goes through at least four 50lb buckets a year. I told him that I may sell him the rest of my bucket for a cheap price which is actually a 50lb bucket thats over 3/4 full. I thought it was a 25lb bucket and maybe I should keep 10 or so as a last resort like if I go vacation? I technically wouldn't need them anymore right? I wouldn't mind maybe making half of my money back on them.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Zac;

My Hi pH page on PoolSolutions, basically says that you shouldn't fight your pH more than you have to, and that higher pH levels aren't necessarily a disaster. It does not say, "Thou shalt run a high pH", but it seems sometimes to be taken that way. Right now, you should try to stay between 7 and 8.

Also, people tend to think all the test values are independent of each other. This too is not quite correct. Especially when you are cleaning up a swamp, all sort of things are going on that push the pH first one way, and then the other. If you had a chart with accurate test results and dosing actions listed every 4 hours, I might could tell you why your pH jumped, or maybe Chem_Geek could . . . but it's hardly worth it.

Here's a simple fact: even when you follow the BBB method -- and used the fewest and simplest chemicals possible -- a pool's chemistry is MUCH too complex to fully model or comprehend. An analytical model of nothing more than the relationship between chlorine and stabilizer requires 14 equations -- and there are many relationships in pools besides that one. If you are working on a graduate degree in analytical chemistry, then it might be worthwhile to try to establish a comprehensive model of what's happening in your pool.

But, if you just want to enjoy your pool -- or at least, not work yourself to death on it -- it would probably better just do respond to what's going on in your pool in the most direct and simplest method possible, and not worry too much about why it's happening that way.

Regarding your trichlor . . . given that you have a high pH and a low CYA, I think this would be a good opportunity to use some of those tablets optimally: they will both chlorinate your pool, add CYA, and lower the pH, and you need all three functions! Unlike the trichlor, the granular CYA will keep indefinitely..