Getting Started AG SWG pool

[jhebert121]

Hello,

I have been an avid reader on here for the past two weeks >_<, and would like to start by saying hi. :)

So me and my wife bought a house and we inherited a 27' above ground pool. I have been running my pump 24/7 for the last week and adding 1.5 gallons of bleach every night. The only testing I have done has been with a cheap OTO/Phenol from wally world, and I have also got an extensive test done at the pool shop, which I will list below. My water is starting to clear up now, at first it was a bit green and we had frogs :O. My question is, with the water being where it is, what should I start doing?

Please let me know what additional information you may need.

FYI - I took this water sample in the evening before I put my bleach in.
FC = 0.4
TC = 0.4
CC = 0.1
pH = 7.5
Hardness = 80
Alk = 56
CYA = 15
Copper = 0.81
Iron = 1.82
TDS = 500

Thanks,
JH

[PoolDoc]

FYI - I took this water sample in the evening before I put my bleach in.
FC = 0.4
TC = 0.4
CC = 0.1
pH = 7.5
Hardness = 80
Alk = 56
CYA = 15
Copper = 0.81
Iron = 1.82
TDS = 500

I'm not sure I believe those results. But, if they are accurate, these results: "Copper = 0.81; Iron = 1.82" spell real trouble.

1. Lower your pH to near 7.0 .
2. Filter 24/7 (as you have been)
3. Tell me whether you have well water and / or a heater.
4. Tell me whether you've been adding a copper algaecide OR have a ionizer or 'mineral' thingie.
5. Don't take the chlorine above 2.0, till we know more -- bleach @ 1/2 gallon per dose, max
6. Do a bucket test: take a CLEAN white 5 gallon bucket of pool water. Add about 4 gallons of pool water, 2 cups of bleach and 1/2 cup of baking soda, mix, cover, and wait. Check after 24 hours and tell me what you find on the bottom. We'll get a pretty good idea whether those metal test results are bogus or not.

Oh. And order a K-2006!

[jhebert121]

1. I have bought 2 gallons of muriatic acid, but did not have time to get that in tonight. That will work for bringing my pH down correct?
2. Still filtering :D
3. We are on city water and no heater.
4. I haven't added any algaecide and I do not have an ionizer.
5. Getting my bleach on, as recommended.
6. Bucket test is in progress as we speak.

I am going to have to wait until next week to order the K-2006, but I will get it. :D

[PoolDoc]

Yes, the muriatic will lower pH -- don't use too much! Your pool is fair-sized, but with the low alkalinity, it won't require lots. I'd try using roughly 1/4 of a gallon bottle at a time, and then testing after circulating for 4 hours. Keep the bottles out of the sun -- it destroys the plastic. A good way to store those bottles is inside a 30 gallon plastic garbage can with a lid. Be sure to read this thread on using muriatic acid safely! (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?13111)

By the way, keep the pH low is just to prevent the metals from staining anything. My guess is, the pool store test results are bogus. But until we know that, better safe than sorry -- removing stains is a pain!

Lemme know when you get some test results -- bucket or K2006. And, maintain good chlorine levels!

[jhebert121]

Still didn't get a chance to lower my pH : /, but the bucket, I did the test in, is still completely white.

[PoolDoc]

I did the test in, is still completely white.

Ok, that almost completely rules out metals in your pool water. It also means you can't trust your pool store tests much at all.

If you access to a Sams Club nearby, and it fits your budget, they have 50lb buckets of dichlor for $105 . . . which is a VERY good price in most parts of the country. Dichlor will add BOTH chlorine and stabilizer.

Also, you HAVE to get a cheap OTO/phenol red kit (yellow chlorine drops) -- you need that regardless of the K2006, since it will keep you from using up the K2006 too soon. Once you have that, use it to check your chlorine.

Add 4 gallons of bleach every evening - not daytime - till your algae is gone. Then cut back to 2 gallons per day. (If you can get the dichlor now, it will be cheaper over the long run, and make things easier.) Dichlor is also available from Amazon for about $3 - $4/lb:
Kem-Tek Dichlor @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0030BEHZ0/poolbooks) 12lb => 49 + 0
Kem-Tek Dichlor @ Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0030BEHZA/poolbooks) 22.5lb $75 + 0

[aylad]

The only testing I have done has been with a cheap OTO/Phenol from wally world,

The OP already has an OTO kit.....

[jhebert121]

I guess I should have mentioned this earlier, but my Phenol test are showing 7.2 pH. For chlorine I am showing 0 in the evening, before adding bleach, and in the morning I am showing 5 or higher with OTO.

My water is clear now but there is a bunch, of what I assume, is dead algae on the bottom. I have one of those automatic cleaners, left from previous owners, that I leave on while I am home. Still needing to get a manual vacuum though.

[PoolDoc]

but my Phenol test are showing 7.2 pH. For chlorine I am showing 0 in the evening, before adding bleach, and in the morning I am showing 5 or higher with OTO.

Almost as good as a CYA test: you have none, or almost none, present. Dichlor would be a good option for you . . .