Light green water

[Huskerdee]

We have an Intex 16'x32'x52" pool. I use a sand filter and cartridge filter because we use a salt water generator. For the winter we left about 3' of water in the pool and balanced water. Then we super chlorinated and added pool magic. We had an unusually warm winter this year, needless to say the pool only froze about 1' which means some algae and other contaminates invaded. Upon opening the pool I added water and super shocked the pool to kill algae and since I like to manually filter metals out of the pool I like to separate them from the water by keeping chlorine levels high so they will filter out, thus I don't fight them all summer. Because this requires frequent back washing and vacuuming to waste I have not messed with my PH and alkalinity yet because I don't want to waste money adding chemicals only to drain them. When I opened the pool the water was moderately green. Then it turned dark brown from metals after shocking. Upon a week of filtering I think I have the metals out. Also, since I kept the chlorine levels at around 12 ppm to effectively kill algae I assume I killed all algae. However, my pool water is still light green to a bright yellow. I tested everything even copper thinking maybe that was causing yellowing. Copper is zero though. My PH is 8.2, alkalinity is 240, chlorine has been steady at 12, hardness is 100, and stabilizer at 40. I know I need to add acid to lower PH and alkalinity but would like to get water back to clear first. This year I am using muratic acid no mor instead of acid because it's so toxic and I cannot breathe it in being pregnant. Do you know the conversion of this versus muratic acid? Also what can I do to get my water clear? I did the overnight algae test and my chlorine level has remained constant for two days. I am lost as to what I need to do. I am tired of wasting money on chemicals but want a nice pool once the weather warms up. Thank you!

[PoolDoc]

We have an Intex 16'x32'x52" pool. Copper is zero though. My PH is 8.2, alkalinity is 240, chlorine has been steady at 12, hardness is 100, and stabilizer at 40.

How are you testing?

(More later . . . but I've got to run.)

[Huskerdee]

I was using test strips, but last time used a test kit.

[PoolDoc]

Ok, I'm not sure how you are coming up with 12ppm FC using test strips. I've never seen any that read higher than 10 ppm . . . and it was impossible for most people to distinguish the 5ppm block from the 10ppm block.

BUT . . . taking your pH of 8.2 at face value . . . you need to lower it. PH levels outside the 7.0 - 8.0 range put your liner at some risk, depending on how far out you go. If you have a test strip that reads 8.2 and ALSO has an 8.6 block . . . then your pH may BE 8.2. But, if you have a test strip that only goes to 8.2 . . . than your pH may be 8.2 or 8.6, or 9.6!

So, lower your pH till it's INSIDE the minimum and maximum range of your test method.

And, order a K2006 test kit. If you are dealing with metals, you can't just 'get by' -- you'll need accurate testing.

Finally (almost!), how are you testing for metals? How do you know metals are in your pool? Do they come from your fill water? Is it well water?

Finally (really!), be careful about using United Chemical products. They have a tendency to put phosphates and/or bromides in everything they make. Your "No Mor Hydrochloric) is 80 - 85% sodium bisulfate (used by every other mfg's PH Minus) PLUS 15 - 20% mystery ingredients. Mystery ingredients from pool chemical companies will get you in trouble. I'd recommend using just plain sodium bisulfate (AKA sodium acid sulfate AKA sodium hydrogen sulfate).

[Huskerdee]

Thank you. I originally tested with strips but then tested with a test kit once I got it yesterday. Yes we have well water and I know we have iron in the water from old iron pipes. We have had a pool for like 5 years and I have fought with iron every time I shocked it. Last year After much research I took other pool owners advice and manually filtered the metals out by heavily oxidizing and taking a week to filter them out. Then I didn't have iron problems the rest f the summer. However, this was the first year we left the pool with water in it for the winter because we had a bigger pool to hard to take down. I think that I realized what is going on. I don't think it's algae because my chlorine holds for a few days. Plus when I reach down and touch the walls there's no slimy feeling. I don't see anything stck on bottom or sides anywhere. I think the bottom, which is blue is stained with yellow from the iron, thus making it appear my water is
Ight green. I'm going to bring my PH and alkalinity down. Once I get the water balanced can I use a small amount of iron out through my skimmer to circulate through the pool? That would help me get the stains off of pump, hoses, and liner. Will that add phosphates or anything unwanted to the water?

[PoolDoc]

Hi Huskerdee --

1. Do bring your pH down, and keep it NEAR, but not BELOW the lowest reading on your kit or tester.

2. Do NOT worry about alkalinity or "balance" at this time (and maybe not, ever!)

3. Do run your pump and filter 24/7, and clean them often.

4. Do NOT use Iron Out (I'm going to merge your other post here).

5. Do see if you can find some HEDP based stain control agent: Jacks Magic Blue, Pink or Purple stuff are ALL HEDP, though I don't know what the concentrations are. I do know the "Pink Stuff" is the most concentrated. (Did a little more checking: it looks like the Pink Stuff is full undiluted 60% HEDP -- so that's 3x as concentrated as the Kem-Tek product. It's available on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003MYEU3E//ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poolbooks), but not with free shipping.)

This product:
Kem Tek Calcium and Metal Eliminator (www.amazon.com/Kem-Tek-338-6-Calcium-Eliminator-Chemicals/dp/accessories/B0030BEI22/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poolbooks)
is available at Amazon for $14 with free shipping if you get 2. It's 20% HEDP, so that's a good price, and it will keep indefinitely. (But store the bottle out of the sun -- the plastic will break if you don't!)

Once you've gotten your pH down, and have added the HEDP, let's see what happens. We can look at other options, once you've gotten that far. By the way, do NOT use the HEDP on the "if a little is good, more is better" basis -- follow the label!

[Huskerdee]

Thank you. I have my PH down to 7.4, do I want to keep going with the acid? I will order the Stuff you told me to and let you know what happens. Again, thank you.

[PoolDoc]

Go to just above whatever the lowest reading on your pH test is.

You have to remember, that if 7.0 is the lowest reading on your kit, a reading of 7.0 does NOT mean that your pH is 7.0. It means that it is 7.0 . . . OR BELOW! It could be 6.8, which wouldn't hurt anything in your case. But it could mean 5.8, which would damage your liner fairly quickly!

[Huskerdee]

The lowest on mine is 6.8 so I will get it to 7.0. I ordered the 2 bottles of that metal calcium stuff. It says it'll be here by the 29th or 31st. So I want to leave the pump running 24/7 until then. I know I need to scrub and vacuum daily also, which I do. Do I want to add any clarifies or flocs? Or just keep filtering? I appreciate your help so much. I have learned a lot from reading posts in the forums and am learning more now :)

[Watermom]

No clarifiers or flocs. We rarely advise adding those on anybody's pool. Just keep filtering.

[Huskerdee]

Thank you, no floc or clarifier!

[CarlD]

Hi, do not be offended but too many pool owners make it more complicated than it is. I would follow Ben's advice and keep it simple.

[Huskerdee]

I had the PH down to 7 but it keeps creeping back up. How can I keep it down w/o using acid daily? I am suppose to have the metal chemical tomorrow and will add that. That won't help stabilize my PH though, will it? My chlorine holds steady and I have had to add bleach as it' really high.

[aylad]

Do you have some sort of aeration going on in the pool? Waterfall, spa, etc? Aeration will raise the pH. Also, if you can turn your return eyes downward so they're not rippling the top of the water, that will help. What is the pH of your fill water, and what is your TA?

Janet

[Huskerdee]

I do not have any aeration or fountains. I did turn the return up because I read in here somewhere that will help lower the alkalinity. My alkalinity was 240 but is down to 190 after 4 gallons of acid. Coming out of the tap my PH right around 7.8.

[aylad]

When you lower alk, the method is to add acid until the pH drops to 7.0 (the TA drops with it), and then turn the returns upward to ripple the water in order to raise the pH again without raising the TA. It does lower the alk, but it also raises pH. Dropping the TA lower should help stabilize your pH, unless you're using stabilized chlorine--if you can get it to the 90-100 range that would be great. However, I will tell you from experience that if your fill water has a pH of 7.8, it's a losing battle to try to fight it, because the pool will want to stay around 7.8. That's what the pH from my tap is, and my pool wants to be at 7.8 no matter what I do, so I just don't fight it. Makes life easier :)

Janet

[Huskerdee]

Okay, I was just trying to keep it lower because that's what Pool Doc said to do for now while filtering continuously and waiting for my metal chemicals. Maybe I'll just leave it alone and filter, brush, and vacuum a lot. Should I put the jets don then o continue trying to get alkalinity down. Ben said not to worry about the alkalinity for now, just the PH, which I have done. This is so frustrating, lol. It'll be worth it when we are enjoying the pool.

[BigDave]

The idea for keeping the pH down is to try to avoid further staining.
Lowering pH has the direct effect of lowering alkalinity - this is good for your pool but not the goal right now.
Your high alkalinity will cause your pH to trend up due to carbon dioxide outgassing.
Keep the pH low to prevent additional staining until you can start applying the HEDP metal sequestrant.
Ben will advise you how to proceed once metal sequestrant is in hand.

Frustrating - yes - but you are waiting for the HEDP and keeping the pH low is the best you can do until then.

You'll be fine - really. No need to panic.

[PoolDoc]

Let me just re-affirm: the instructions earlier in this thread, here (http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?14678-Light-green-water&p=84758#post84758), are the ones you need to follow.

Don't worry about alkalinity or calcium. Don't add Iron Out. Don't use floc (yet - maybe later.)

I understand that this is frustrating. I'm not sure whether this will make you feel better or worse, but you probably need to know.

1. Dealing with metal contaminated well water is always a challenge.
2. There is enough variation from pool to pool, and water source to water source, so that an effective 1-size-fits-all method for pools with metal contaminated water isn't practical.
3. However, it's usually possible to work out an effective approach . . .
4. BUT, you'll really have to pay attention to details, more than most pool owners OR pool service guys, and
5. Once you have a working 'recipe', you'll need to stick to it carefully.

It would help (and I'll be asking eventually anyhow) to know all of the following:
1. Does the house use the same water as the pool?
2. Is there a water softener or treatment system on the house water supply?
3. Does the pool use water before, or after, this treatment system (if it exists)?
4. Is it 'expensive' for you to drain and refill? (Usually, "No", if the well is 100' or less; can be high if the well is deep OR if your well has very limited capacity).
5. What sort of filter do you have (cartridge or sand, original or larger replacement)?

Ben

[Huskerdee]

Yes the pool uses the same water supply as the pool; however, it is from hydrant that goes directly from hydrant to pool. It does not go through our water softener first. Refilling for us is costly and takes about a week for 15, 000 gallons. Our well is extremely old and is 250' deep. We cannot run it continuously for more than 8 hours at a time or it's too hard on it. I have a 2500 hp sand filter but also have the salt generator cartridge filter hooked up to it.

[PoolDoc]

By any chance, do you have an older smaller Intex around, that still is usable?

This is getting pretty involved, but if you can pretreat the fill water in a small pool, and then transfer it to the larger pool, you can keep the iron out of the big pool.

Also, can you disconnect or remove the guts of the SWCG (salt) system? You wouldn't want to use it know, at best. And, at worst, it's adding MORE metals (copper) to the pool! I'm not sure that EVERY Intex SWCG is this way, but the one's I've looked at ALSO add copper.

[Huskerdee]

I do not have any smaller ones still. I can remove the copper ionizer from it and will do that. When I test my water though my copper is 0, but cannot hurt to take it out. I got the chem Tek metal and Calcium remover and added the suggested amount to the water. This morning my PH was back up to 8.2 but I did not treat it yet because this metal chemical says it's an acid that lowers PH. After I added the metal and calcium remover, brushed the pool really well, and the water now turned a milky, cloudy green. Is that a sign it's working? How long should I wait to bachwash now? How long till I should notice a color difference? How long till I should check and adjust the PH? Should I brush more than a couple of times a day? Should I vacuum or wait? Lot of questions, I knows Lol. I appreciate your guidance through this.

[PoolDoc]

I got the chem Tek metal and Calcium remover and added the suggested amount to the water. This morning my PH was back up to 8.2 but I did not treat it yet because this metal chemical says it's an acid that lowers PH.

Go ahead and lower the pH - it's not that much of an acid. You want the pH around 7.0 -- the HEDP can't pick up the iron if the pH is high.

About the cloudiness -- I don't know what's happening. How much did you put in? An overdose of HEDP can cause cloudiness, but I've never seen a company label an HEDP product at doses high enough to cause that.

I'll call Kem-Tek, to see if I can find out if anything ELSE is in that product. You go ahead and lower the pH, and keep filtering.

[Huskerdee]

It said to put one quart per 10,000 gallons. Since our pool is almost 15,000 I added a quart and a half. I will go our and put PH reducer in now.

[PoolDoc]

I've tried 3x, but haven't been able to reach them.

I'll have to call this evening (for me -- they are in Calif).

I've re-read their literature, and am not sure what's happening. One & 1/2 quart of 20% HEDP is not high enough so I would expect calcium problems, though it is higher than I would have thought they'd put on their label. But, they are calling the product "calcium eliminator" -- that's par for the course for HEPD products, even though they don't "eliminate" anything -- they just dissolve it. But, it's possible that they did add something that will "eliminate" calcium, such as STPP. It's non-toxic, so they don't have to list it.

Even so, that doesn't explain what's happened, since commonly, wells with iron have ZERO calcium.

For now, DO lower the pH and DO keep filtering. Ironically, if they have done something that has precipitated calcium, once the iron's re-dissolved, the calcium products on the filter (as they filter out) WILL help REMOVE the iron from the pool. So, it may work out for the best. But, until I find out what ELSE is in that product, I'm guessing.

This is one of those times when I wish I had a "PoolForum" line of plain un-mixed chemicals for sale, so I could be SURE of what was going into people's pools!

Ben

[Huskerdee]

Ok working on lowering PH. I do think the water is looking better. It just looks a light greenish color, but the yellowish color looks gone, just a murky green. I really appreciate all of your help.

[PoolDoc]

OK.

I was able to reach the head chemist at Kem-Tek, and surprisingly, discovered that they not only know about PoolForum.com, but liked it! That's gotta be a first for a pool chemical company!!

Anyhow, the product you got was just 20% HEDP + water, so I'm not sure what caused the cloudiness. But DO continue lowering the pH.

AND . . . once you get the pH below 7.4, you need to begin adding nightly doses of 6% household bleach, about 3/4 gallon at a time. Recheck chlorine the following evening, and if it's below 2 ppm . . . add another dose.

BUT . . . continue lowering your pH till it's near 7.0, but not below.

FINALLY, you got the KemTek stuff, but did you also order the K2006 testkit? We really need those test results in order to keep making progress!

[Huskerdee]

I have the PH down to 7.4 but the chlorine has not lowered. My test kit goes to free chlorine of 12 but my level is somewhere over that. The water color is really orange so I'm guessing it's around maybe18 or so. Do you still want me to add bleach? I did not order a test kit because I already have one I ordered about 2 weeks ago. Do I want to vacuum the pool at all? What about back washing, or will that remove to many of the chemicals just added? I did notice a slight change in my water entering the skimmer. Before adding the metal chemical it was brown and yellow tinged. Now it's got like a slight cloudy film. Could that mean there is also dead algae in the pool? I didn't think so because usually when chlorine is fighting algae or something it drops and mine holds really steady. I don't get much of a drop at all.

[PoolDoc]

Ok, exactly what test kit did you get? And what results -- chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium and especially stabilizer -- are you getting with it?

We're going to have to have full and RELIABLE results, in order to continue. Right now, we're sorta playing a guessing game. I understand that, if you've spent money on a new kit, you're reluctant to buy another. That's fine with us --IF-- the kit you have is reliable and accurate.

But, if not, not so much.

Flying blind on purpose is something we try to avoid here.

[Huskerdee]

Well I had to take my son to swim practice last night. Since water was so yucky looking dear sweet husband thought he would help and add algaecide 60 to the pool. I came home and went to do my normal filter backwash and wow. The pool had grey, white, and brown stuff floating on the water. I thought, great now what. Anyway, I heavily chlorinated as suggested to do. This morning I could see a definite improvement. I still have cloudy water but not so green. There is still stuff floating a little and the water is still cloudy but looks better. Do you think I was fighting two prob
Ems? I think we finally won and the algae is dying and dead, and the metals are really precipitating. This morning I decided to unhook my salt water chlorine generaror because it seemed it couldn't keep up with the pull from the sand filter. I was right, the suction and circulation are much better and my psi on the sand filter dropped 5. I think by morning the water will look considerably better. Do I want to consider using a floc or something to drop the stuff to the bottom so I can vacuum it? Or will it eventually all filter out? Thank you so much.

[PoolDoc]

Is he swimming USS? My older son swam USS from 5 - 16; both sons now swim Masters, though my 16 year old isn't old enough to be official, yet. They both love practices where, as my younger son notes "nobody is whining about wanting to leave". In Masters, if they don't want to come, they don't.

But, back to our regularly scheduled pool:

Huskerdee . . . you are going to have to tell us what's going on with testing. I'm not willing to continue working blind. Sorry.

[BigDave]

BigDave, check your email -- Ben

[Huskerdee]

The PH is down to 7.0, the chlorine is too high to read on the test kit. After heavily chlorinating last night I think it's around 20 or so as the color is orange. The CYA I test with strips because that isn't included in the kit, but it's around 40 according to the strips. The way the pool holds chlorine it must be accurate. I have not checked alkalinity or done acid test since PH is good and you said not to worry about alkalinity.
My son is nine and has been on the local swim team for two years now. He's a little fish. This year he broke a record at the state meet. This weeken we have regionals. He qualified in three events. So far he has a ton of gold medals and some silver and bronze. I hope he continues and the coaches believe he really has potential and could go as far as he wants. Maybe I have a little Olympian on my hands, lol.

[PoolDoc]

OK, but I *still* need to know what kit you have.

If you've got any OTO/phenol red kit EXCEPT a Taylor kit . . . your pH reading is not trustworthy with OTO at orange.

I need specific brand names on the test materials you are using, so I can tell what sort of info we have. I cannot work with you, without reliable information. If you can't tell me what you've got -- for whatever reason -- we just need to call it a day.

[Huskerdee]

There's no reason I can't tell you what kind, just didn't know you wanted brand name. It's a Slimline 8440 test kit.

[waterbear]

Your test kit is an inexpensive (and not very good) 4 way test kit (http://www.poolchemicalmart.com/Test-Kits/Hydro-Tools-8440-Four-Water-Hydrotools/) sold under the Hydro Tools brand name. The same kit is sold under different brand names (for example, it's the same as the Ace Hardware 4 way test kit). It does NOT measure up to 12ppm chlorine. The pH reagent is not a blended one and requires the addition of chlorine neutralizer, so pH readings can be suspect. The Acid Demand test is not very accurate at all and practically useless. The Total Alkainity test uses a very dilute bromothymol blue indicator (color change of pale blue to almost colorless yellow) so it is very difficult to see the endpoint of the titration (drop count)compared to the blended indicators used in better kits from Taylor and Lamotte that change from a deep and distinct green to red) If I am not mistaken the kit comes from China (as is most of the stuff imported by Swimline Corp (http://swimline.com/swimline/aboutus.html), the parent company of Hydrotools) and , IMHO, is not worth the price of the plastic case it comes in.

I would STRONGLY suggest that you get a Taylor K-2006. There is NO comparision to the ease of use and precision of the Taylor kit compared to what you currently have!

I suspect I know how you are getting the reading of 12ppm . Many comparators have two scales, one for chlorine and one for bromine side by side. Bromine readingss are twice the chlorine reading. so the scale will say 1 on one side and 2 on the other and you are reading that as 12. The other possibility is that your comparator goes up to 6 ppm chlorine and 12 ppm bromine and you are reading the bromine scale.
I used to work with a CPO (Certified Pool Operator) that kept writing down a chlorine reading of 3.6 in the pool logs. I asked how he got that type of precision with the kit we were using (Taylor K-2005)when he tested our two commercial swimming pools where we worked. He showed me the 3 and the 6 on the comparator. I explained that the chlorine was 3 ppm, that the other set of numbers was for bromine, and then had a LONG talk with our boss!

[Huskerdee]

I ordered one fyom a place close to here so should have the new kit by Monday. I'm curious to test it against this one to see how close or off things are, lol. When I compare the numbers like ph and alkalinity against Aquacheck strips they are pretty similar. Anyway, will just wait to get this one. Thank you.

[PoolDoc]

I used to work with a CPO (Certified Pool Operator) that kept writing down a chlorine reading of 3.6 in the pool logs. I asked how he got that type of precision with the kit we were using (Taylor K-2005)when he tested our two commercial swimming pools where we worked.

Too funny . . . and nice detective work! I'm hoping to get my color-blind-vs-color-dumb page, complete with 'stories' posted this year!

[Huskerdee]

After much filtering and back washing my water is crystal clear; however, I have no chlorine levels. Should I add more of the calcium and metal remover before chlorinating? I have a lot of algaecide 60 in to prevent algae while I was awaiting my new test kit. I think all the back washing took my CYA way down. Anyway here are my readings.

Water temp - 69
PH - 7.3
Alk. - 200
CH - 400
CYA - undetectable
FC - 0
CC - 0
Saturation Index - 1.0

Oh yeah, my acid demand test was 2.

[PoolDoc]

No! Don't add any more of the Metal product (20% HEDP)

How did you get such high calcium levels? Is that much calcium present in your fill water?

You have a sand filter, right? If so the best way to run your pool might be with calcium hypochlorite and high stabilizer. I've been working a chemical guide page, and was very surprised to discover this AM that cal hypo can be purchased fairly economically at Amazon . . . if you know what to order.

The benefit, for you, is that doing it this way -- with a sand filter -- would allow you to continuously remove iron from your water. You'll end up with a manually dosed pool running with high calcium, moderate alkalinity, fairly high pH and high stabilizer. It won't be hard or expensive at all -- just a little different. If you get a K2006 (yeah, I'm still on that track!) you'll probably be able to work up to dosing just 1x per week, plus whenever you have to add water.

You could also use dichlor, and wouldn't have to add stabilizer manually. It will be more work to control the metals, whenever you have to add water, if you go that way.

MEANWHILE, add bleach in the evening, 1/2 gallon at a time to maintain your pool while you decide. But, the first time you add, add 1 whole gallon of 6% plain bleach, close to sunset. Test the water first thing in the morning, and again in the evening with OTO, not DPD. Let me know what you find.

[Huskerdee]

I did get and used a Taylor k-2006 test kit. That's what my last results came from. The calcium must be in our well water. Yes, I have a sand filter but thought Icouldn't use cal hypo because I have a vinyl liner? I have a SWCG but don't have it on yet. Should I just start that?

[PoolDoc]

Wow! That is truly bizarre, if the calcium is the well water. OK.

1. Cal hypo is fine in vinyl IF you don't drop it on the liner. (That's not why I want it in the skimmer, but adding it via the skimmer serves the purpose.)

2. You have the Intex SWCG w the copper? Can you disable the copper part? (Regardless: NO, don't start it yet. We need to get everything right, first.)

3. Please test your fill water, directly from whatever source you fill your pool. Please run it for at least 2 MINUTES before you collect a sample, so we're testing what ends up in the pool when you fill for awhile. (Ideally, collect your sample after you've been using water in the house, so the well pump has been running. But STILL run it for 2 minutes.)

[ Just had a thought: could you have rusting pipes putting the iron in the well water? It's just very, very unusual to have calcium and iron in the same well water. ]

4. If you can find a really clean white bucket, fill it with this water, after you collect a sample and then cover it with a towel, to keep dirt and sun out, but not air. Check it after 24 hours, to see what if anything has settled. And THEN test it.

(Don't run CYA test on any of these samples: it will use up your reagent, and you already know there's no CYA in that water. Unless you have a chlorine feed pump, you don't need to check chlorine in the well samples.)

[Huskerdee]

I have a doctor appointment in the city tomorrow. I will stop and get cal hypo and do the testing of hydrant water when I get back.

[PoolDoc]

about 1/3 lb in the skimmer at a time. You must be 100% sure no other chemicals are in the skimmer, or anywhere between the skimmer and the filter. The pump must be on, and remain on for at least 30 minutes after.

[Huskerdee]

Sorry I haven't replied sooner but am 45 and 7 months pregnant. Have not been feeling well. Anyway, my pool is a slight color away from being clear. I tested my hydrant water which is where we fill from. The PH is 7.2, alkalinity is 375, and calcium is 310. I just received a test bottle from our health department to test our iron, manganese, and copper. I will have those in a couple of weeks. However, I expect it to come back high in iron and possibly manganese too. I know the copper isn't high because I've tested that and besides our house is old enough they used cost pipes not copper back then. I have a question. I'm pretty sure I killed any green algae there may have been. However, every morning when I go out and look there is a dark green or brown sticky substance along all the seems. Would that be black or mustard algae? How do I get rid of it because heavy shock, brushing, and vacuuming does nothing, it just comes back.

[Watermom]

I'm going to let Ben address the first of your questions. But, regarding the seams of the liner ------------ my guess is that it is pollen and dirt that have settled in those lines. My liner pools have always done the very same thing. I can vacuum the pool and have it supposedly pristine. But, the vacuuming process has fine particles (dust, pollen) stirred up into the water. Then when the pump is shut off and the water gets still, that fine stuff settles back to the floor of the pool and settles in those lines. Happens over and over and has been true of every liner I have had. I cleaned my pool yesterday, but I'm pretty sure if I went out to look, I'd see those lines of debris. Not a lot you can do about that, unfortunately.

[PoolDoc]

The PH is 7.2, alkalinity is 375, and calcium is 310.

In my experience, it would be extraordinary for water like that to contain iron . . . and it's very unlikely that that water would cause iron to rust much, either.

I'm not sure what's going on -- I'll very interested to see the test results on the samples you sent in. Meanwhile, just chlorinate and filter. Seriously, a clean white 5 gallon bucket, filled with 4 gallons of tap water will tell you a lot. Add a teaspoon of bleach each day, and stir. See what settles out.

Sorry you're having challenges with your pregnancy -- hopefully, it won't get too hot before you deliver!

[Huskerdee]

Thank you. I had two spinal fusions and a discectomy so I have a hard time carrying the extra weight. I'll get through it but can tell when I've over done it, lol. Anyway I will do the bucket thing as soon as I can. I'll keep you updated. Thanks for your help.