tkim6599
06-29-2011, 10:40 PM
Hi all. New owner of 32,500 gal pool with Hayward EC75A DE filter. I have a New Water Cycler 430 off line chlorinator that feeds from between the pump and DE filter and puts out chlorine at one of return lines.
The pool people opened the pool last month and had changed the chlorine pac for me. When I tried to replace the pac, I couldn't open the chlorinator until I screwed it onto a wooden board and used the tool that came with it to torque it open.
I found out why I had a hard time opening the chlorinator - DE in the threads. Clumped up DE in the dial as well, making it hard to turn the dial at all.
I have three questions.
1) Is it a usual practice to connect the first line between the pump and filter and use dirty, unfiltered water to feed the chlorinator?
2) When I change the DE, I pour it into the closest skimmer to the pump, and thirty seconds later I see DE coming back out of one of the return ports. I'm assuming this is because some of the DE bypasses the filter through the chlorinator. Should I turn the chlorinator down as low as I can before changing the DE, or disconnect and plug the little hole so that the chlorinator does not circulate, or move that first line somewhere between the heater and return lines?
3) I was reading the literature regarding the New Water 430 off line cycler, and it seems to indicate that the max size pool it can handle is 25,000 gal. I've had difficulty keeping the chlorine above 1 ppm despite shocking and adding additional ca chlor. I plan on switching the the BBB method as soon as I get a decent testing kit, but it seems to me that the automatic chlorinator is inadequate for my size pool. Should I just change it to an in-line chlorinator like the Hayward CL200, which is cheaper and uses cheaper pellets I can add myself, or keep the off-line chlorinator cranked to max and shell out $40 every two weeks for a new chorinator pac?
The pool people opened the pool last month and had changed the chlorine pac for me. When I tried to replace the pac, I couldn't open the chlorinator until I screwed it onto a wooden board and used the tool that came with it to torque it open.
I found out why I had a hard time opening the chlorinator - DE in the threads. Clumped up DE in the dial as well, making it hard to turn the dial at all.
I have three questions.
1) Is it a usual practice to connect the first line between the pump and filter and use dirty, unfiltered water to feed the chlorinator?
2) When I change the DE, I pour it into the closest skimmer to the pump, and thirty seconds later I see DE coming back out of one of the return ports. I'm assuming this is because some of the DE bypasses the filter through the chlorinator. Should I turn the chlorinator down as low as I can before changing the DE, or disconnect and plug the little hole so that the chlorinator does not circulate, or move that first line somewhere between the heater and return lines?
3) I was reading the literature regarding the New Water 430 off line cycler, and it seems to indicate that the max size pool it can handle is 25,000 gal. I've had difficulty keeping the chlorine above 1 ppm despite shocking and adding additional ca chlor. I plan on switching the the BBB method as soon as I get a decent testing kit, but it seems to me that the automatic chlorinator is inadequate for my size pool. Should I just change it to an in-line chlorinator like the Hayward CL200, which is cheaper and uses cheaper pellets I can add myself, or keep the off-line chlorinator cranked to max and shell out $40 every two weeks for a new chorinator pac?