Where to start? BBB pool!! HELP!

[HollyClo]

Ok...we are just now putting up a 27ft above ground pool. I have read a lot about the Borax, Bleach and Baking soda method on here. But I need to know where to begin? We will be filling it up with City water, once the new liner comes in. FYI-I'm one of those no chemical fans. The least amount of chemicals my children get into/eat. The better! OH! And I need to know what is the best testing kit to purchase. I'm sorry if this is a repeat question. I've looked for awhile now for a post that has info on how to begin a BBB pool. Just haven't found one. Thank you so much to all who answer!

~Holly

[aylad]

The test kit that we recommend is the K-2006 or K-2006C (same kit, larger reagent sizes) that can be found in the Amazon link in my sig. Only buy that one if Amato Industries is the seller, because some of the other sellers are subbing a different kit. If you'll get your kit, test your fill water and post results here, we can tell you what/how much to add.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new pool!

Janet

[HollyClo]

Oh, I guess I should also mention. The filtration system I am using is a SWIMPRO-The missile system. With an aqua smarte delivery system attached. I need to know if I need the aqua smarte system on there? If not, I'm sure my husband could take it off. I'm buying a new filter for the missile system also. Just ordered the K-2006 on amazon ;) Should be here next week! Thanks again! Sorry for multiple posts.

~Holly

[Watermom]

I don't know about the SWIMPRO system, so can't comment on that. Will you have water in the pool before your kit arrives? If so, go to Walmart and buy a cheap OTO/Phenol Red kit (red and yellow drops) so you'll have some way to test the chlorine and pH. Even if your kit does arrive, it is still nice to have an OTO kit on hand. I of course have a good test kit, but use my OTO kit a lot for daily testing of cl and pH on my pool. It won't test for everything you need, so you'll still need the good kit but it is another handy tool to have.

[HollyClo]

Thanks Watermom,

I won't have any water in the pool. We are still waiting on the liner to arrive. But I'll purchase a OTO/Red kit too. So I don't have to do all the big testing constantly. How often are you suppose to use the K-2006 to test the water? I'm thinking at least weekly? Or should it be more frequently than that?

[PoolDoc]

Wow!

Got a kit BEFORE you have pool water, and have problems! How nice!

So . . . let's get really ahead of the game: test the water you are going to fill with or, if it's going to be trucked in, the water you will refill or topoff with -- usually, this means your tap water.

[waterbear]

Oh, I guess I should also mention. The filtration system I am using is a SWIMPRO-The missile system. With an aqua smarte delivery system attached. I need to know if I need the aqua smarte system on there? If not, I'm sure my husband could take it off. I'm buying a new filter for the missile system also. Just ordered the K-2006 on amazon ;) Should be here next week! Thanks again! Sorry for multiple posts.

~Holly
The Swimpro is a Hayward sand filter. The Aquasmarte is made by King Technology and is a private label name for the PoolFrog, a 'mineral system'. TAKE OFF THE AQUASMARTE AND RETURN IT. DO NOT USE IT. IT PUTS METALS IN YOUR WATER AND WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO RUN A LOWER FC LEVEL AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!
THEY CALL IT A 'MINERAL SYSTEM'. I GUESS THAT IS TRUE IF YOU THINK CHEMICALS LIKE SILVER NITRATE AND COPPER SULFATE AND ZINC SALTS ARE MINERALS.

Your filter also comes with a ba cpac. This is a trichlor feeder that only takes special (read expensive) cartridges made by king technology and that your dealer sells. Beteeen the bac pacs and the mineral cartridges every six months they are setting you up for a LOT of repeat business that you do not need to do but the dealer wants you to!

[CarlD]

Yes, if you have the OTO kit you can start by testing you tap water with that, so we know how much (if any) chlorine is in the water and its pH. Sometimes you can find the WalMart kit that also tests Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and CYA (stabilizer) . If so, test the TA and CH, but not the CYA (they don't put that in city water).

Personally, if I knew NOTHING about the tap water, I'd add one gallon of regular, unscented bleach for every 10,000 gallons, as it's filling, just to prevent anything growing while you are starting up. About the only thing bad that can happen is if, by some weird chance, your city water has a lot of metal in it, there could be a problem. But metallic water is usually well water, not city water.

But a full readout could be very helpful in tailoring treatment for your pool.

You mentioned something about not liking a lot of chemicals in your pool. Unfortunately you won't able to escape very high levels of the most dangerous one by far, Dihydrogen Oxide, sometimes referred to as Hydrogen Hydroxide.

Carl

[HollyClo]

Thanks so much everyone for all the replies! I really appreciate it! Another question. Since I'm starting this thing out fresh. I'm wondering your thoughts on possibly getting a salt water chlorinator? Instead of the BBB system? Which do you prefer or suggest and why? I was all set on the BBB system then a friend of mine suggested salt water. Supposedly they are low maintenance? Thanks again! Oh, and I plan on disconnecting the aqua smarte ;) My husband is a plumber...so I'm hoping he can handle that ;)

[waterbear]

Y Unfortunately you won't able to escape very high levels of the most dangerous one by far, Dihydrogen Oxide, sometimes referred to as Hydrogen Hydroxide.

Carl

This is true, Dihydrogen monoxide (another name for this chemical) is the number one cause o swimming pool related deaths with many fatalities every year. Just a small amount inhaled into the lungs can cause death and it has also caused death when ingested in large enough quantities because it upsets the electrolyte balance in the body! The sad part is that all pools and hot tubs contain large amounts of this dangerous chemical that is also used as an industry solvent, coolant in nuclear plants, as a fire suppressant and retardant, in biological and chemical weapons manufacture, and many other industrial uses!

It's gaseous form can cause severe burns and in solid form it can actually damage skin with extended contact and lead to gangrene!

You might know it by another name...water...and everything I said about it is the truth (steam is water in gas form and can burn you and snow and ice, solid water, can cause frostbite and that can lead to gangrenes) SO think twice about the 'dangers of chemicals in your pool". The dangers of water borne illnesses from improperly sanitized water are MUCH greater and what you SHOULD be worrying about!

[HollyClo]

Don't get me wrong...I definitely want my water to be sanitary. Just going to try to keep it sanitized without the use of so many man made chemicals...that aren't exactly necessary. Definitely don't want to be swimming in nasty/dangerous water ;)

[CarlD]

Waterbear and I are just pulling your leg. But it's true. By far the most dangerous chemical in your pool, the one most likely to cause death or injury, is the water itself. None of the other chemicals we use in maintenance or testing has nearly the death level of swimming-pool water. It's an important perspective to always maintain.

Salt water systems generate chlorine from the fact that salt is Sodium Chloride. Bleach is created from salt water. There is no difference between B-B-B and using a salt-water generator. They are 100% compatible with each other. In fact, people with SWCG systems find they perform BEST when they follow the B-B-B plan.

Carl

[HollyClo]

LOL...you guys had me going there for a minute. I thought waterbear was angry with my ignorance. ;) I really do appreciate all the information you all are sharing with me! Thanks a bunch! Once I get that liner. I'll be back with a bunch more questions I'm sure. And I'll have to run to walmart to grab that test kit. And let you know how my city water levels read :)

[waterbear]

Waterbear and I are just pulling your leg.

Everything I said about dihydrogen monoxide (water) is the truth! It can cause death and injuries when misused as can ANY chemical. There is the key, learn how to properly use your pool chemcals and there is no problem. Even baking soda and table salt can cause poisonings and death if improperly used and baking soda can be used to make soda bottle bombs! Borax is a chemical, washing soda is a chemical, baking soda is a chemical, even soap is a chemical and is a man made one (soap does not occur naturally in nature and is actually the salt of lye and a fatty acid, commonly sodium tallowate or sodium palmitate) and these are often touted as "substitutes" for chemical cleaning agents like detergents.:confused::confused::confused:

Point is, there is no such thing as chemical free! If you think there is you are deluding yourself. EVERYTHING in this universe is made of chemicals! EVERYTHING your children get into/eat is a chemical! Chemicals are not intrinsically bad but there is a fear of them so the word 'chemical' is a buzzword for fear mongers!

[CarlD]

'Bear, I think Holly got the point.

In fact, our B-B-B method is based on the fact that good pool maintenance does NOT need lots of chemicals pushed by pool stores. We generally don't recommend:
Phosphate removers
Clarifiers
Bluing
Flocculents
Yellow-Out
Metal "removers"
Copper
Silver
Nor a zillion other things.

Normal pool maintenace, and even algae fighting can almost always be done with:
Bleach/Liquid Chlorine
20 Mule Team Borax
Muriatic Acid
Baking Soda
Washing Soda
and CYA(stabilizer).

Carl

[HollyClo]

Not a fear Monger here. Just cautious is all ;) Can't wait to get this pool up and running!! Any suggestions on the best way to put in a new overlap expandable liner?

[Watermom]

Holly,
Post that question in the above ground pool forum where you're likely to get some of the installers to see it. Some of them don't read the chemistry threads.