Pool Questions

[skizz0tt]

Over the summer my pump motor broke, which I replaced with a A.O. Smith ST1152. I have a C4000 Hayward filter system. I just received 4 new cartridges today (the cartridges in the unit are 10+ years old). I also have a Baracuda G3.

Because the pump motor broke I let the pool 'go.' I've been in the process of cleaning it up, but because my cartridges were so old & a leaking & broken pressure valve on the c4000 was messing up the overall filter pressure, it has been a lackluster process.

I've switched over to liquid bleach as my primary chlorination method. I've also ordered a Taylor K2006, it should be here on Thursday.

My question is this: Should I empty my pool & start over with my new cartridges? If I do that, what chemicals do I need to add to the 'new' water? Is the water I have salvageable? If it is, how would I find that out?

Pool Info:

Pool size = 20k gallons (I think)
Filter = Cartridge
Type = IG (plaster)

Thanks in advance!

-Scott

[aylad]

Hello, and welcome to the forum!!

Most pool water is salvageable, if you're willing to put in a little time and a lot of bleach. First thing I would do is to net out as much stuff as possible from the bottom, then run a full set of test numbers with your kit. Then put enough bleach in to get your chlorine up to 12-15 ppm and try to hold it there by adding more bleach 2-3 times daily. Brush the pool daily, keep the pump/filter running 24/7 and clean the carts as your pressure indicates. After you get the mess cleaned up, then we can help you tweak the other numbers.

Janet

[skizz0tt]

Okay. I went to the pool store and had them analyze my water:

Results:

FAC 0
TAC 0
CH 180
CYA 60
TA 90
pH 8
Acid 3
Pho 300

I installed my new cartridges, added 14.2 gallons of clorox (10 182oz bottles) to shock. I've been running the filter since. The pool store said I needed to add phosfree & muriatic acid & chlorine.

Do I need to add phosfree or muriatic acid?

[PoolDoc]

You may add muriatic acid if you like. Try 1 quart at time, poured directly into the pool near a return, preferably in the deep end. Wear gloves, glasses, and watch out for the fumes. Wait a day, before adding more.

DO add bleach, 4 gallons per evening, till your pool is clear OR till your chlorine level is HIGH in the AM (orange on an OTO tester). Do NOT let it get to zero again

Do NOT add anything else.

Ben

[Watermom]

In a 20K gallon pool, 14 gallons would raise your chlorine by 42ppm! Is your pool still green??

[skizz0tt]

I ran some numbers... I think it may be closer to a 25-30k gallon pool. Still, it's looking much better. The new filters made all the difference. It's not the first time I've put 14+ gallons of bleach in the pool to watch the magical transformation!

Here are pics:

http://i.imgur.com/Z5R1z.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PT3nl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z7VsG.jpg

[skizz0tt]

The pool is clear of debris and is blue but not entirely clear, yet. I need to keep my chlorine at 12-15 ppm and make sure it's not losing 2+ ppm overnight, correct? When I reach that point, can I shut off the filter and just run it 8 hrs a day?

[aylad]

When you're not losing more than 1 ppm chlorine overnight, then your algae is dead and you can let the chlorine levels drop back to your normal, but don't stop filtering until the water is no longer cloudy. When it's completely clear, then you can reduce your filter time.

Janet

[skizz0tt]

Okay, I received my k2006.

At 5:00 PM I tested the water and got FC 13 / CC .5 / pH 7.6
At 6:00 PM I added 6 gallons of 6% bleach. At 10:30 PM I took another reading: FC 31.5 / CC 0.5 / pH 8.0

This morning @ 7:00 AM I took another reading: FC 31.5 / CC 0.5 / pH 8.0

I also did an Acid demand and only needed 3 drops to lower the pH to 7.6... would that mean the acid demand test is a 3?

Not losing chlorine overnight is a good sign right? I'm going to shut off the filter for a bit and see if the water is still cloudy.

[PoolDoc]

Not losing chlorine overnight is excellent - indicates that your pool water is clean and algae free.

Do NOT trust, or act upon, your pH test results. Above 15 ppm chlorine, your Taylor pH test is NOT reliable. (Above 5 ppm with other kits!)

Unless you are going to try to let the dirt settle, in preparation for vacuuming, do NOT turn the pump off. Even then, don't leave it off or more than 12 hours. Otherwise, run it 24/7 till your water is crystal clear. (If you have a two speed pump you can run on LOW, or if you have a valve DOWNSTREAM of the pump, you can throttle the flow back some.)

Ben

[skizz0tt]

It's difficult to tell if it's actually clear or not, I detect maybe the slightest hint of cloudiness in the deep end. I'll keep running it to be on the safe side. When can my children swim in it? Obviously 31.5 ppm is pretty high, is it absolutely unsafe? What level should I let it drop to in order to allow swimming?

[PoolDoc]

31.5 is not unsafe, but it is very hard on swimwear (depending on your stabilizer level) and might be uncomfortable. Assuming your CYA is still ~60 ppm, I'd let my kids get in at 20 ppm, but with older swim suits.

If your pool is clear, you can start cycling it. But try to have it run 2x per day for a total of at least 6 hours (more, with a sand filter).

[skizz0tt]

This morning the chlorine reading was 17.5 ppm... is that a drastic drop in 24 hrs? From 31.5 to 17.5? The pool is clear, clean & blue.

[PoolDoc]

If you added chlorine after the sun was low enough to end most direct sun, and then retested before there was much direct sun . . . then yes, that's a drastic drop.

Otherwise, no.

But if your water is clear, I'd go ahead and let it drop to the 5 - 10 range and hold it there for a week. After that you can operated normally. But do follow the Best Guess Guide (link below) to establish what "normal" is for your pool. At 60 ppm CYA, 5 - 10 ppm chlorine IS normal.

Ben