Pool needing complete overhaul! But i'm willing to go the distance.

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Hey All,

I'm a young guy in the military and i bought an older house with an old pool. When we bought the house the pool was sold "AS IS". It doesn't appear to have been operational in a few years but i am in the process of draining and cleaning out all of the algae and debris. I'm borrowing a pressure washer today to continue the cleaning. Ok well it is an inground concrete pool and i am assuming that it was plastered but the plaster is very rough on the bottom of the pool and stained. There are some holes in the plaster where the concrete is showing on the stairs in the corner of the pool. I cant afford to contract the work out but i feel that i would be capable of doing most of it myself. Prior to the military i prepped and installed epoxy floors in factories so i would be most familiar with that type of thing for resurfacing. I know the old 1 h/p pump is done and i am planning on replacing the old sand filter at the same time. Another thing i have been considering was a salt water system. So basicaly I have the shell of a pool that needs to be recoated (i am leaning towards ultraguard? any help?) i will be purchasing a new pump, filter and anything else i run into along the way. I love the idea and of having a pool and i understand it is alot of work but i've never been scared of that. Any suggestions would be of great help, even possibly where to start.

[PoolDoc]

Well, the first think I'd check is the pipes -- if they are busted or leaking, you may need to withdraw and reconsider. Second, I'd check the shell and see if there are major and obvious leaks below the normal operating level -- if the pool was holding water at that level, you're probably good to go. But, if not, there are likely leaks at the level of the water, unless it's been dry there lately.

Once you've gotten that far, I'd look at Gunzite / Zeron from Kelley Tech. There's an recent Ultraguard thread here already; you might want to look at it. Search using the like to local Google search from the box in the upper right of most PoolForum pages. Keep in mind that weather conditions are a HUGE issue when painting outdoors. That's a big difference from your experience.

Ben / Poolforum

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Ok i will def. check the pipes. As for the plumbing almost all of it is only covered by dirt and grass and i feel like if there were any breaks or leaks i could dig down to the plumbing and replace it. Is that possible or am i underestimating the job. And i plan to get a company to come out and borescope the pipes and if there are any trouble spots they could locate them from the surface i believe. I almost have the pool cleaned out i'm down to the last amount of muck down at the bottom of the deep end about 6 inches of muck which is really a pain because i can't pump it out. I've resorted to shoveling it out. I have looked over almost all of the pool surface minus the bottom of the deep end of course but everything looks good the worst area is the steps where the plaster looks weathered heavily. The pool wil def. need to be recoated but i have not seen any large cracks or wholes in the concrete. As for recoating it sounds like i will need to chip away any loose plaster and patch any exposed concrete with an acrylic mixture? And sand everything smooth then do the acid wash and prep phase. Basically i won't have to remove all of the existing plaster just make sure that if it is staying it is secure to the concrete?

[PoolDoc]

Whatever you recoat with, will adhere to what's on top, and its ultimate bond to the shell will only be as good as the bond of what's under it.

But . . . heavy coats of epoxy (Zeron) do 'hold stuff in place'. I've seen epoxy hold nearly loose plaster down for years. But, if it moves, gives, or wiggles under load, it's got to come out.

Ben

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

I have been weighing all options from DIY epoxy coatings to having a reputable company come out and re-plaster the entire pool. They will also replace the pool light, replace my main drain with one thats to code, and re-stick my loose tile. The company i am leaning towards quoted me at 6500$ for everything and they are offering a one year de-lamination warranty. The technician told me they use a rougher bond coat and then a final plaster coat and that the quote was good and we would sign a contract. I am strongly considering just having these guys do the work considering it would take me alot of time to prep by my-self and I am not even sure of the re-liability of the coatings. They told me 3 days and they would be filling the pool. From what i have read on the forum that sounds like a pretty decent price and this pool company has been recommended to me by multiple sources. They have had an A+ BBB rating since 1964. Now i am shopping around for my pump and filter and I am curious if anyone has any reccomendations. I currently have a sand filter and really old 1 HP pump. I am wondering if it would be a bad idea to change the type of filter? Any input on my re-plastering, pump and filter replacement ideas or recommendations are welcome. If this isn't a very legitimate post i apologize, I am just excited about getting my pool going and wouldn't mind input from some veterans.

[aylad]

Hey, I just noticed you're from Shreveport--I'm just outside the city limits. What company are you going with?

What is the volume of your pool? I'm a sand filter fan myself--for me, it keeps the water sparkling with minimal effort from me.

Janet

[Shredhead]

I just had my 22,000g IG replastered with Pebble Sheen by the biggest contractor in the Chicago area. I would assume the pool business is more competitive down South, because mine was double your quote.
But I will say they did a great job and it looks fantastic! If you stay on top of it, I don't think pools are that much work. Good luck!

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

The company i am considering is Morehead Pools and i'm not sure of the volume it's about 8-1/2 to 9 feet at the deep end i believe, and i measured the length and width before i am having a hard time remembering what i came up with i want to say the estimate was a around 22,000 gallons.. i will measure again when i get home. There is an old sand filter in place already i'm not sure how operational it is but i can't imagine much being able to go wrong with it besides needing new sand. The valve on top is a little stiff i guess before i replace it i will take it apart and inspect it.

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Thanks for the encouragement on the pool Shredhead, I am thinking it is a good price too obviousley as you stated, prices will differ signifacantly by region but it is still alot of money! One way or the other it needs done so i guess i will be taking the plunge.

[aylad]

In a 22K gallon pool, a 1 HP pump should be more than enough--my pool is approx 29K gallons and I have 1 HP on it, and it does just fine. I'm also a proponent of sand filters--I think they do just about as well as a DE filter without all the hassle. Besides, you can always add a handful of DE to the sand if you need it to filter finer stuff.

Morehead is a good company, one of the pricier ones in this area, but they are also one of the only pool companies in this area that have such a full range of services without having to go to an independent contractor. They seem to be knowledgeable about what they do. The few dealings I've had with them, I've found them to be at least on time and deliver what they promised. I have found, though, that if you just need parts, i.e. gaskets, replacement plugs, Polaris parts, etc they are available for about 1/2 the price elsewhere. Just FYI-----

Let us know how it goes!!

Janet

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Hey everyone i had to put the pool on hold until i finished a laundry room addition for my wife. But now i have a green light on the pool and have been saving up for the big expenses. I am wanting to purchase my filter and pump this week and I am thinking of ordering them online. I have tried to search for the best prices and I am rather challenged with computers so it hasn't been easy. I narrowed my choices down to a Hayward Pro Series (S244T) Sand Filter With Top Mount Valve for $279.95, and a Hayward Max-Flo II 1 H.P. - 2 Speed Pump (SP2707X102) 230V for $448.95. If anyone has any input please speak up from what i have gathered Hayward is a decent brand and these are not terrible prices for the equipment listed. I am also going to throw in an automatic chlorine feeder while i am redoing the plumbing around filter/pump. Basicaly a hopper system i guess a friend told me to get one it's only another $54.95 (Automatic Chlorine Feeder NA342) I figured why not. I am assuming buying these large items online isn't a bad idea because the two local stores i went to had higher prices than the online companies with shipping included. And the stores don't have the items on the shelves anyhow they must have to order them from warehouses too right? Haha well if nothing else wish me luck!

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Ok, well i have ordered the filter and pump. I have a company coming out Thursday to start the replaster. This company is going to replace the pool light, replace the main drain cover, replace the return jet nozzles, re-stick all of the tiles that fell off and the ones that are loose, and of course replaster with a bond coat. Once this is all finished my pool should be fully funtional! I will be reading up on some other sections of this forum on how to get the chemicals right and get the test kits i need and all that. This forum has truly been priceless, all of the information i have learned about the pool industry has been grabbed from here. Thanks to everyone for thier help, directly and indirectly.

[Watermom]

Keep us posted how your project is going. Go ahead and order a Taylor K-2006 or 2006C test kit (same kit but has 2-oz. bottles instead of 0.75-oz.). See the Amazon link in my signature. Only order when the seller is Amato Industries. If they aren't listed as the seller one day, wait a day or two until they restock and then order. Some of the other sellers are sending the K-2005 instead which you do NOT want.

(By the way, did you know that any time you order anything from Amazon but start with that link, the Pool Forum makes a little money? As long as you start with that link, you can navigate to any other area of their website and order anything that they have to sell and PF still makes a little money! Helps us stay online and everyone orders from Amazon at some or another, don't they?)

[BigDave]

Here here, Good luck.

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Plaster job is done and looks great i took a few days off work so i could stay on top of the guys doing the work but all in all i think they did a great job. My new filter was delivered on friday they finished the plaster on friday night around 8pm and the pool is still filling! Only about two-three inches left to go. My new pump was suppose to arrive with the filter but i guess got backoredered at the last minute and is now scheduled to be delivered Wed. and it is now Sun. So if there is anything i can do to prevent an algae bloom or any preventative tips that would be great. I've read of some people that do the bbb method just adding bleach in until they can get everything up and running, little more info on that... haha. but i also ordered a taylor test kit (K2006) as well i ordered that last week and i am thinking that will be here Tues. or Wed. because of the holiday. Me and my wife are really excited we are justb a little intimidated by the test kit and chemical stuff, sounds kinda confusing but i know this site will help tremendously.

[Watermom]

You'll do fine with the kit. After a couple of times, you'll be pros.

Go ahead and add some bleach in there or you'll have a green pool by the time your pump arrives on Wed. I'd suggest adding 3 gallons of 6% bleach each morning and each evening. That will add just over 8ppm of chlorine to the pool. Pour it in slowly around the perimeter of the pool as far away from the edge as you can reach. Then, take a clean broom, oar or something and stir it around as much as possible. Hopefully that will be enough to keep algae at bay until you get the pump hooked up and running. Keep us posted.

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Alright Pool has been full for a few days, and is staying nice and clear. I am still waiting on the pump to come in but i am adding bleach and cleaning the debris out of the pool daily with a leaf rake. I missed adding the bleach yesterday morning but last night i added the three gallons and again this morning. I had the water tested yesterday after work at the pool store and here are the numbers.
FC: 0
TC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 8.2
TA: 50 ppm
CH: 100 ppm
I see there is no chlorine but i figured because i missed adding bleach the morning of the test it all was gone by the afternoon. I am still waiting on my test kit to come in the mail, hoping for today. I'm not sure what all these numbers mean yet but i'm sure i'll learn fast. They gave me a sheet that says what i need to buy and i figured i would come here and ask before purchasing anything.

Sodium Bicarb;Alkalinity Plus - 28lbs
Muriatic Acid;PH Minus - 1Gallon
Shock;Chlorine - 6lbs
Those are the only things they told me to buy. Any thoughts, I would like to learn how to do the BBB method to hopefully avoid being "pool stored" in the future.

[Watermom]

Add some more bleach. A newly filled unchlorinated pool will turn green faster than you can imagine. Wait til you get your kit before trying to adjust the other things. For now, just concentrate on keeping some chlorine in there. It will be tough because with no CYA you'll lose it fast to the sun. When is the pump supposed to be there?

The only thing you need in that list from the pool store is the muriatic acid which will be used to lower the pH. You can just buy regular baking soda to raise the TA. Pool store Alk Plus is the same thing at a much higher cost. What kind of shock were they trying to sell you? Since this is a plaster pool, you'll need your calcium hardness to be between 200-400. So, it might be a good idea to use some cal-hypo as your source of chlorine until your CH comes up a bit. Then you can switch to bleach or some other form of liquid chlorine. One other thing you will need to buy is some stabilizer (a.k.a. as CYA, or conditioner). You're going to need about 7 lbs. of it. That will give you about 40ppm which will be a good level.

[OldPoolYoungKidFirstHouse]

Hey Watermom,

Thank you for your help. I just checked my tracking number again and the pump is being delivered today! It should be at the house when i get out of work. I will definately get some chlorine in the pool i like the idea of adding cal-hypo until the calcium comes up to between 200-400 ppm and then going back to bleach. I will also purchase stabilizer. Is there a certain kind of stabilizer to buy or whatever i can get. Baking soda for TA and muriatic acid to lower pH. Ok i think i got it, i will be waiting to add anything until my test kit arrives like you instructed. I am hoping i will get the plumbing done today if i can get started soon enough. I'll keep updating this thread because without it I would be lost. Thank you for your help.

[Watermom]

Is your kit also going to be delivered today? Do you have any kind of kit? If not, go ahead and pick up a cheap OTO/Phenol Red kit from Walmart (yellow and red drops). You cn use it in the interim until the good kit arrives. It won't test everything like the good kit will, but it will test pH and chlorine which is fine for now.

If the pH still reads above 8.0, go ahead and add a little muriatic acid (maybe a pint) slowly in front of a return jet once you get the pump running. After a couple hours, retest pH and add more acid if needed until you get the pH between 7.2-7.8. Muriatic acid is nasty stuff. Wear gloves, glasses, stay upwind of fumes, pour with the bottle very close to the surface of the water so it won't splash. With new plaster, you'll have to repeat this process frequently from time to time as newly plastered pools tend to have high pH.

You can also go ahead and add the CYA once your pump is up and running. Pour it slowly into the skimmer and then run the pump 24/7 for at least the next 4 to 5 days. Don't run the CYA test before then or else you'll just be wasting your reagents. It is slow dissolving and won't register on your test for about a week or so.

(BTW -- even with the Taylor K-2006, it will still be handy to have the little OTO kit for quick daily checks of chlorine and pH when you don't need to test everything. I of course have a good kit, but use my OTO kit frequently.)