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View Full Version : Pool Pilot Low Amps Cell 0V 0.6A



vgg659
09-07-2010, 09:43 AM
My Pool Pilot Digital is broken, again. In the three years that I have had it, I have replaced the display board (failure), the power circuit board (high temps), and the cover (screw post breaking).

Now, I am getting the error "Low Amps - Cell". Per the troubleshooting guide, I inspected the cell for scale and found very little. I cleaned it anyway.

I also test all three fuses - all good. Even though it tested good, I replaced the ceramic fuse just to be sure.

I checked my cable connectors, and cleaned my manifold screen filter.

I doubt that my SC-60 cell is bad, as it's only three years old. I purposely bought the larger cell for my 25,000 gallon pool so that it would last a long time. Three years is not a long time!

My water is 7.4pH, 3200ppm salt, and 87F.

I have a multi-meter, and know how to use it. Are there tests that I can do to narrow my problem down to either the power unit or the cell, and/or diagnose the problem?

Poolsean
09-10-2010, 09:06 PM
What do the center and two outer blades look like compared to the blades between them? Are they all the same length or are the leading edges shorter?

The OV and 0.6 Amps sound like the cell is not getting energized.
What % are you running? Do you see the cell cycling ON and OFF, as per the display on the lower right corner.
How do you have your DIG running? Controlling the main filter pump, connected to an Electronic Control System, or wired to an external time clock?

Put the unit in Boost and let it run for a few minutes before doing the TEST POOL PILOT.

Also, Press the PUMP button and let me know what it reads. It should not read REMOTE RUNS PUMP. If so, you will need to reprogram the unit, as it's looking for a signal from an Electronic Control System.

vgg659
09-11-2010, 10:00 AM
Thanks for your help, Sean.

A couple of clarifying points regarding my original post.
1. After checking my salt levels with test strips, my salt is 4200ppm. I have recalibrated the Pool Pilot Digital, but my problem hasn't changed.
2. I am getting the warning light and message "Low Amps - Cell".

>> What do the center and two outer blades look like compared to the blades between them? Are they all the same length or are the leading edges shorter?

The center blades are shorter by 1.25mm and 2mm (top and bottom), and the outer blades are ~0mm and 1mm (top) and 1mm and 1mm (bottom). These center and outer blades wear are even, but the coloration is slightly darker (grey vs silver) compared to the other blades.

>> What % are you running?

Presently 75% @ 89F.

>>Do you see the cell cycling ON and OFF, as per the display on the lower right corner.

Yes, it is cycling.

>> How do you have your DIG running? Controlling the main filter pump, connected to an Electronic Control System, or wired to an external time clock?
The Pool Pilot Digital is controlling my two speed pump. The Pool Pilot Digital is connected to an external timer.

>> Put the unit in Boost and let it run for a few minutes before doing the TEST POOL PILOT.

No change - 0V and 0.6A with warning light and message.

>> Press the PUMP button and let me know what it reads.

High or Low.

Poolsean
09-13-2010, 02:52 AM
Sounds like the Power Module board has something wrong on it.
When did you have the system installed? What is your serial number on the DIG-220?
Is everything else working?

Please check the cell fuse again (top left corner - white ceramic fuse), then check the wires going from the top left to the cell banana jacks.
Check your wire harness that goes between the two circuit boards. It may be a loose wire in the wire harness. The wires should be pushed into the connector terminal fully.

A worn cell or bad cell cord would give you a 29 amp reading. 0 volts and 0 amps are indicating that the cell is not getting a signal to power up.

vgg659
09-13-2010, 09:29 AM
>> When did you have the system installed? What is your serial number on the DIG-220?
The system was originally installed June 2007, and the serial number was DG0071317626. However, in Feb 2009, a warranty overbuild was done because of high heat discoloration around the ceramic fuse, so the circuit board was replaced.

Also, I have uploaded a picture of my Pool Pilot Digital at http://www.eatel.net/~vgg659/PPD2010Sep.JPG. Please notice that there is some discoloration around the area of the ceramic fuse, and at M4.

>> Is everything else working?
Yes, the Pool Pilot Digital seems to be functioning OK in every other manner (fans, display, etc.), and all pool pumps and timer are working.

>> Please check the cell fuse again (top left corner - white ceramic fuse), then check the wires going from the top left to the cell banana jacks.
I re-verified the fuse, and it appears OK. I checked the wires from J1-Tab-1 and J1-Tab-2, and they look good. I checked voltage acoss J1-Tab-1 and J1-Tab-2, and have 0 volts.


>> Check your wire harness that goes between the two circuit boards. It may be a loose wire in the wire harness. The wires should be pushed into the connector terminal fully.
Are you referring to the wire harness that connects the main board to the display board? If so, this looks good.


>> A worn cell or bad cell cord would give you a 29 amp reading. 0 volts and 0 amps are indicating that the cell is not getting a signal to power up.
Thanks for this tip.

Poolsean
09-13-2010, 04:35 PM
Everything is pointing to the power module. E-mail me with the photo and details you've provided here. Let me see what I can do.

vgg659
05-22-2011, 11:17 AM
As a followup to this thread, it was my circuit board. My unit has been refurbed, and is back in action as of last week. Based on a visual inspection, Pool Pilot appears to have made some design changes, so I'm hopeful that this won't happen again.
Also, Poolsean was very helpful in this matter. Thanks, again. It is nice to have my SWCG back!

Watermom
05-22-2011, 01:07 PM
Thanks for the followup. It is always helpful for others who may be reading a thread when someone comes back and tells us what the problem and/or fix turned out to be.