Removing Damaged Brass Concrete Deck Anchors

[roddiaz1]

A few of my screw-type brass conrete-deck anchors broke this spring in the process of removing the winter cover (now two and half years old).

Two of the anchors were stripped, that is to say the allen head no longer has its desired hexagonal form and the brass-screw insert is "frozen" in the cylnder. Another anchor screw sheared-off while trying to remove the screw leaving a slugg behind.

My gut tells me I have to drill them out with increasing larger bits untill all the brass material is removed. But that would require drilling a perfectly centered hole. I'm willing to bet that American Ingenuity has found a better way and one of you out there knows how-to this.

Also, if anyone knows what kind of lubricant can be applied to prevent the screw from "seizing" that would be helpful too.

Please help!!

Thanks,

Rod

[Poconos]

Hi Rod,
I think you have it figured how to get the damaged ones out. Never had to drill one out but I imagine even with a hole off center you'll eventually get a thin enough wall on one side to knock it out. Someone may have a better idea though. As for the lube, I haven't used my cover in years but when I was using it several would start seizing. I hit them with WD-40 and that loosened them up to be able to unscrew. I wound up using wheel bearing grease. Seemed to work pretty well. The grease I have is a thick, waxy stuff, dark brown in color. Some of the high temp stuff they use now is thinner and a bluish color. You would want something thick.
Al

[roddiaz1]

Thank,Al, I'll give it a try and repot back my success or failure.

Rod

[Poconos]

If you wind up enlarging the hole I'm thinking you could use some kind of epoxy or hydraulic cement to hold the new one in place. Just a guess, never had to do it.
Al

[CarlD]

There's a reverse thread-cutter called an "Easy-Out" that may work. You drill a pilot hole in the item, then twist this thing in using a tap wrench to turn it. It cuts into the material turning counter-clockwise. But be careful: If you break the "Easy-Out" it's much harder to get out, being it's hardened steel. (Guess how I know...Hint: A motorcycle engine).

Another solution is what's called a heli-coil thread repair kit. This over-drills and taps the hole by a specified amount, then a hardened, specially shaped spring is inserted. The inside of the spring (the heli-coil) is the size of the original hole. However, as it's hardened steel, it probably won't stand up to water and will rust.

Of course, epoxy putty can be used to re-fill the hole and when it's hardened and cured, re-drill it to size--the should be as tough as the concrete, if not tougher.

[Stlgasman]

What did you wind up doing?

[Ohm_Boy]

FYI - there are left-hand twist drill bits made JUST for drilling out threaded fasteners. Everything is done the same as any conventional drilling for an extractor (Easy-Out), but since the drill is turning to the left, it helps back the broken fastener out, sometimes without needing the extractor.