Check/Clean Cell Purifier off

[rebomax]

Origionally I was having a Low amps Cell. The Cell look clean, I cleaned it as specified anyways. I still had the same problem. So I bought a new cell, I zeroed out the amp hours per instruction for cell replacement. When I perform the self test I get the following readings: 3200 salt, 89 deg. power level 2, 15 volts 3.7 Amps. At the cord end where it connects to the cell I'm getting 28.49 volts, 3.6 Amps. After a little while after I turn it on the purifier cycles off and on with light flashing and the Check/Clean Cell warning.

[PoolDoc]

Rebo;

I'm going to let someone else tackle your SWCG question, but I'll answer your posting question (which I deleted).

All new subscriber posts are moderated, which means that I or one of the moderators has to look at it and release it, before it becomes public. Full subscribers are able to post without moderation after 6 successful posts. But temporary subscriber posts are moderated for the duration of their subscription.

The reason for this is so we can check and deal with inappropriate or link-hacker posts before they are encountered by legitimate forum users. For obvious reasons, the bad guys try to look like good guys, so the ones that slip through our process encounter a final check here.

For an example of a post that was moderated directly to the "Hall of Shame" just this afternoon, look at the new video post from a marketing firm hired by HTH / Arch. The video is marketing goop, but not dangerous, if you want to look at it.

Best wishes,

Ben

[rebomax]

Thanks Ben, I realized the moderator thing immediately after I posted the question. How long does it usually take to get an answer? The reason I'm in a hurry is that I will be leaving Monday for a week and would like the pool to be on auto pilot for the duration.

[Poolsean]

rebomax,

The low amps and volts can indicate either a bad control power board, or an incoming power issue to the Pool Pilot. That is, if it's wired to accept 220 volts but only getting 110 volts, it will send approximately half the amps and volts that the normal power should be.

If it were just a bad cell fuse, bad cell cord, or bad cell, you would peak out at 29 volts and lower amperage (less than half the cell power amperage).

Even with the check system light flashing, the Check/Clean Cell message is still producing some chlorine, just less than half as much.

[rebomax]

Thanks for replying. I just got back in to town. The system is setup for 220 VAC and getting that at the connections. When I do the self test I get 15 v and 3.6 amps, at the cord end I'm getting 28.5 v. When I put it on boost it says check/clean cell. When I put it on power level 3 @ 50% it says cell amps. All 3 fuzes are good. I replaced the cell and the readings are the same. How can I check to see if it's PCB?

[Poolsean]

There are no test points on the board to determine the condition of the board that I would be able to provide. However, I know you said it was set up for 220 volts (and excuse this question, but I have to ask), did you test this with a multimeter?

You can visually inspect the power board for signs of burns and swollen capacitors (tall cylinder components along the top left corner of the board), and check under the pcb for insects or reptiles (ants, lizards, snakes, etc).

[rebomax]

Yes Sir, I did check with a multimeter plus the pump is also working. I will check the card for burn marks and bugs. Do you know if that part is available somewhere? I also have a Jandy RS-6 with a PDA. My son dropped the PDA and oops the LCD screen is cracked. Does any one where I can one for a good price?

[rebomax]

Check Power PCB no visible burn marks no bugs clean both PCBs with electronic cleaner and is still doing the same. Any other suggestions, I need help badly.

[Poolsean]

It sounds like its a bad power module, unfortunately.

[dc_soccerdude]

This might not make sense but I believe in trying everything before ordering new stuff :)

I had a check/clean cell warning one time and like you even though it didn't look really dirty I cleaned the cell as directed but the message came back shortly after putting everthing back together. After playing a bit (cleaning contacts, etc) I finally thought about checking the inline filter screen and even though I didn't have a flow warning it was pretty dirty so I cleaned it out and Viola!! the message went away.

I didn't get as far as checking voltage/current readings and have no idea why the system was reporting cell warning rather than flow warning (which it does when the filter screen gets really dirty and the pump is on low). Maybe it triggered both alarms and the cell warning has a higher priority so it was the one being displayed and would not clear until the flow was sufficient to check the cell. Perhaps Poolsean can explain or tell me I'm crazy or it could be one of those pool mysteries that is never solved but it worked for me so maybe it will work for you!! Good luck.

[Poolsean]

dc, you're crazy! lol
The flow is the priority protection so there must have been enough flow to trigger the flow switch but not enough to saturate the cell with water to achieve full amperage and voltage to the cell, hence, Check/Clean Cell.
It is unusual for that condition to exist, sooooo..... I would suggest checking to make sure your tri-sensor is working correctly. Block off flow to the tri-sensor and ensure you get a Check Flow warning.

[rebomax]

I haved cleaned everything, even the contacts with CRC electronic cleaner. I've had the system for 4 years out of the weather. I can understand the cell getting used up, its design for that. But the control module? if your gonna replace the pcb, it seems more cost effective to buy a new control module. The internal components are too expensive. Does anyone have reviews on Jandy Aquapure. The replacement components are cheaper to replace if they ever go bad.

[rebomax]

Its been a while back from a long sabatical. I rechecked everything again after being without a SWG for about 7 months. I found 4 of the medium size capacitors on the power control board to be swollen. I desoldered them and checked and sure enough they were bad. I ordered them online for $1.50 each. I replaced everything and I'm up and it's running like new. I came close to buying a complete control unit. Thanks guys for all your help.